This was one of my favourite sews of last summer.  I love pretty much everything about it!

This is the Style Arc Iris dress. From their website: This fabulous stylish shift dress is perfect for those summer months. The slight cocoon shape allows for easy movement and comfort. The neck and armholes are finished with narrow bias bands, so why not use a contrast colour or print to create your own personal look? The large angled pockets along with the wide hem and side splits complete this dress which will become a summer staple. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Linen, crepe, rayon, cotton.

Cocoon and swing shapes really do seem to work best for me. They avoid issues with my short back waist length, and also eliminate fitting issues around my waist and belly. I can just choose the pattern according to bust or high bust measurement – while still hopefully remembering to check the finished measurements – and away I go!

I really do love a line drawing for really seeing what a pattern is like.  I know that some people like photos rather than pattern illustrations; in an ideal world, I’d like to see both.  Photos of the finished item on a variety of body sizes and shapes is helpful, but the main thing for me is to see the shapes that the garment is made up of; the seamlines, design lines, and overall detail.  I seem to do a better job of visualising whether the garment is likely to work on me from a line drawing than I do from a photo.  That said, there are a few people whose blogs/instagram I follow that are a fairly reliable guide for me – if it works for them, it will probably work for me!  But a pattern cover photo of a conventionally attractive model (usually slim, tall and young) is not really helpful for me – although I acknowledge that it helps others.

There are no darts in the bodice shaping of this dress, but it still managed to accomodate my C cup boobs without much trouble. I would suggest that if your bustline is larger, it would probably be worth adding darts and doing a FBA. Often sleeveless woven garments have a tendency to gape on me around the neckline or armholes – this one fits incredibly well!

The neckline and armholes are finished with narrow bias cut strips, attached in a way that is similar to sewing bands on to knit garments. Having them cut on the bias allows for stretch and flexibility, while still being able to accomodate the curves they are being attached to and sit flat (after a good press).

The pockets are rather fun. They’re like a combination of side seam and patch pockets. I also like the wide hem – I reckon that a wide hem adds a touch of class to many garments.   You don’t see them as often in purchased clothing because they use more fabric – and therefore add to the production costs.

The only thing that I will change when I sew this pattern again is to shorten the dress a little. This is at pattern length, and I think that a shorter length works a little better on my shorter frame. I will do that by folding out some length from the pattern a little up from where the split is marked.

Isn’t that wonderful fabric, by the way! I’m pretty sure it’s linen, originally from Joy’s in Geelong, which has now closed. I really love this type of print. Size wise, this is size 12, without alteration. I generally sew size 12 in tops and either 10 or 12 in pants when I’m sewing Style Arc patterns, knowing that the types of patterns that I choose make my waist measurement less relevant than bust and hip measurements.

It’s so great when everything comes together – pattern, fabric, print, colours, fit and style!