Yes, it’s another Marcy Tilton pattern success! May I present my version of Vogue 8620.
This is a jacket that’s been quite a while in the making. I don’t think that the pattern is in print any more – if you want to sew it, track it down fast on eBay or etsy or similar! The oldest review of this pattern on Pattern Review is from 2009, so I figure that’s when it was published.
I haven’t had the pattern in my stash for quite that long, but it’s still taken me a while to sew it up. I think that I was waiting for the right fabric. This textured stretch woven from Super Cheap Fabrics pretty much sang to me, wanting to become this jacket. And yes, it’s the same fabric that I made Misty jeans from a couple of blog posts ago!
I don’t really plan to wear these two pieces together, but hey, I suppose that I could! So, back to the jacket. There are lots of pieces in this jacket; it’s not a quick sew. This year I’ve slowed down quite a lot in my sewing anyway, particularly enjoying something that I can take my time on. It’s unlined, and I finished many of the interior seam allowances with bias cut binding.
One of the challenges in making this jacket in this fabric was sourcing a matching zip. I really didn’t want to contrast – this colour is dramatic enough without adding extra details like a contrasting zip! Someone put me on to Australian Zipper Industries P/L just a couple of suburbs away. I took in my fabric, told them what type of zip I was after, and the helpful saleswoman found just the right chunky open-ended zipper for me! Although they are wholesalers they were happy to sell me one zip – for only $3. That’s service!
I alternated orange and red threads in the overlocker needles and loopers to give a colour that approximated the rust/orange/brown/red fabric. I was able to find a good Gutermann thread match for the construction and topstitching, fortunately. I’ve taken these photos outside in natural light to try and get the colour as accurate as possible.
The pattern envelope describes this jacket as follows: Semi-fitted jackets A, B have pockets, underarm gussets and front zipper closure. B: silk-screened embellishments. Package includes Marcy Tilton’s instructions for silk-screening.
Size-wise, I think that I sewed size 14. Marcy Tilton patterns often have generous ease, but I was fortunate to have read plenty of reviews, so knew that this one was actually a bit more fitted. I didn’t make any alterations to the pattern. Looking at the pattern cover and line drawings I am probably not meant to have the cuffs turned back quite so much, but they work for me as worn.
As I said earlier, I took my time sewing this. I followed the instructions, thought about them, and generally enjoyed the process. I’m highly satisfied with the results. This is a garment that feels very much like me.