In The Folds released the Rushcutter dress a couple of years ago, and if Instagram is anything to go by it was very popular.  I hesitated, because it was a pdf, and dress pdf patterns take a fair bit of assembly.  Also, I figured that I had lots of patterns for loose dresses.  Fast forward a while, and Emily ran a Kickstarter campaign to get her patterns into print form. I do like to support a fellow Australian in her small business dreams, so I signed up and eventually received a printed copy of the pattern.  And a couple of months later, I sewed it up!

First off, I need to say that this pattern is another big WIN for me. I really love the resulting dress! And yes, it’s a loose dress, but there was enough detail to make it a bit different to sew and much more interesting than the usual. From the website: The Rushcutter is an oversized knee-length, A-line dress, designed for woven fabrics, available in two different styles. The Rushcutter is beautifully designed and carefully drafted to include many interesting details, to make this a very enjoyable sew for sewers at a range of different levels. The pattern comes with fully illustrated instructions to hold your hand every step of the way.

View A features three-quarter length raglan sleeves, large side pockets, invisible zip, bound neckline and a wide hem facing.

View B is a sleeveless version, with back button closure. It features in-seam pockets, with neckline and armholes finished with bias binding. Included in the pattern is an optional waist sash, that is suitable for both styles.

As you can see, I sewed view A.  I chose to sew size F, based on bust measurement.  Waist and hip measurement are fairly irrelevant in this style.  I didn’t make any major alterations to the pattern other than lowering the front neckline an inch.

That beautiful mustardy yellow linen is from The Cloth Shop. It was absolutely divine to work with and to wear. I originally hoped to sew the entire dress from the solid, but I just didn’t have enough of it (one of the perils of buying fabric without a pattern in mind). I tossed up a few options for the sleeves and centre front, and settled on the printed linen blend that was a gift from Anna but I suspect originally from Joy’s in Geelong (now closed). Although the yellow in the print wasn’t the same as the yellow of the solid linen, it still pretty much toned and worked with it.

The pockets are drafted so that they are a little wider than the side panels, and stand away from the rest of the dress. A subtle yet interesting detail, and very easy to sew.

There is a curved seam that joins the bodice to the skirt, and this was also drafted beautifully. Although I didn’t manage to pattern match the print across the centre back seam, I did manage to line up the invisible zip perfectly.

I’m definitely glad that I lowered the front neckline – that’s as high as I want a neckline to be! One of the benefits of sewing a garment well after the pattern is first released is that you can see plenty of examples on other people, and read about anything they’ve changed. The neckline is finished with bias binding sewn like a facing and turned to the inside and topstitched.

I topstitched most of the seamlines for more definition and to provide support and a teensy bit of structure. Linen has a lot of inherent ‘give’, which is one of the reasons that I enjoy wearing it so much. I possibly overstretched it a fraction when easing the skirt to the bodice, as it looks to me as though there’s a little bit of fullness along that seamline that won’t quite press out. Otherwise, I feel that this dress is close to perfect for me! I’m quite happy with the length as drafted (so longer on me than on the average person), and I feel that this dress will get lots of trans-seasonal wear.

As well as the patterns available for sale on the In The Folds website, Emily designs (free) patterns for Peppermint magazine.  These can be found here, and there are plenty of finished examples on Instagram and around the blogs.  After sewing this dress I am impressed with her design and drafting skills.  I’ll definitely be using more of her patterns.