Hot Patterns Jermyn Street Shirtdress
I had high hopes for this pattern. And there’s a lot to like about the finished dress. But also a bit that feels rather ‘meh’.
I think that lots of my issues with this dress were due to the size that I chose to sew. I really haven’t got Hot Patterns properly figured out. The last few times I’ve sewn one of their patterns I’ve sewn size 10 (I measure more like a 14, 16 or 18 around the waist) and generally that’s worked out to be the best size. After some flat measuring and oohing and ahing I made the decision to cut size 10 for this one as well. And the body is okay. But the first rendition of it had sleeves so tight that I could barely get the dress on – and then I could barely move!
I unpicked the sleeves and recut them in size 14 (maybe 16?), re-sewed them up, and reinserted them into the armscye with a little bit of faffing around. Then the dress fitted!
That twisted, knotted front was what initially drew me to the pattern. It’s visually interesting and I wondered how it was constructed. I was aware that it could go either way in regard to being belly enhancing or belly distracting (I have a decent size belly).
From the Hot Patterns website: You’ll L-O-V-E this figure-flattering shirtdress, perfect for blouse or shirt-weight weight fabrics like cotton shirting, chambray, crepe or linen. Use a woven with a little added stretch if you’d like, but do also consider a stable knit with a little body, like silk(y) jersey, ITY knits, double knits like ponte, or a lightweight French terry. Semi-fitted, button-through shirtdress has a faux shirt-style shawl collar and an optional invisible side seam zipper. 3/4 length sleeves are finished with a slit and a deep hem facing; the skirt hemline finishes j-u-s-t below the knee with a narrow hem. Dress has a very slightly raised waist seam and a twisted front. This is the very definition of a throw-on-and-go dress; it’s easy to dress it up or down for day, night, work or the weekend, and depending on the season and your fabric choices, this one works with boots, shoes, sandals and sneakers. The fabric is lovely – it’s a linen check that was a gift from a lovely friend. It was really nice to work with; it pressed well, yet has that give in it that you find with linen and linen blends. The front facings/collar pieces were interfaced with lightweight Vilene fusible interfacing, and they turn back beautifully. I particularly like the shaping at the centre back collar seam.
Now, I actually sewed this back in March, and have only just got around to photographing it. I don’t mind how it looks in most of these photos, but also feel that my hair and skin tones blend into the colours of the fabric a bit too much. And really, it fits closely. More closely than I’d probably like. I really don’t know that I’ll wear it.
I do like to give different styles a try every now and then – but I always do so knowing that it could be a gamble. I’m glad that I sewed this dress, but will I sew it again? I don’t know….possibly not. Actually, this dress has already been transferred into the wardrobe in the spare room…and we all know what that means!
Sorry can’t say I like this one on you. Love just about all your others but this one has nothing going for it.
What about cropping it at tunic length and adding white or other high contrast color and cuffs…The shape of the collar is beautiful on you
I think the spare wardrobe is a good call too. The problem with these knots and twists is how long they take to dry properly and how difficult they then are to iron.Good on you for trying different things as it is a big investment in time and good fabric.
My opinion is that it is good to move it out to the give away.
If trying the pattern again in woven may I suggest a larger size from the waist down. It seems to be pulling at the sides. Also in a light weight stretch fabric it could be great. This style is flattering on you. I would not give up on the style but with my suggested changes it would look amazing on you. Well done for trying a new style of pattern. I like it.
The fabric, collar and sleeves are all lovely. I think you already know the bodice is not doing you any favours.
I wa looking at this pattern today . Glad I saw your post . I wonder if it would do better in a fabric with more drape ? I like the pattern but I was rather dubious about my living it fir its capacity to disguise a tummmy somehow having a bunch of folds there doesn’t seem like such a great “disgusted “ to me 🙃
I’m not convinced that this is a good dress on you – although that collar is very nice.
For what it’s worth, i think the style looks good on you, it just needs to be made up in a drapey knit (rayon jersey?) with a little bit of heft to it. The fabric looks spectacular on you—-perhaps trim it to tunic length & wear it with some skinny dark jeans? It seems to me that the Hot Pattern designs tend to be made for drapey knits even though they’ll work in wovens with a crisp hand. :/ Thank you for blogging about your projects—you’ve inspired me often! —BethS
I am struggling with this pattern. A lot is left out. Maybe try to redesign without the twist. The collar Instructions are confusing.
I have decided that as much as I like the designs and illustrations of Hot Patterns, they don’t work well for me. I am sticking with other pattern companies now.