I got rather excited when the Cashmerette Montrose pattern was released.  It’s a basic woven top with sleeves, and you may be wondering why that excited me so much.  Well, it was because of the fit of my Cashmerette Springfield top – a sleeveless woven top that fitted me beautifully in size 12 C/D without alteration.

From the pattern website: Elevate your style with the Montrose Top! This timeless pattern features two variations: View A is a scoop neck blouse with short sleeves and curved back yoke, while View B shows off lace fabrics with a jewel neck, elbow length sleeves, and keyhole back. And, there are standard or full bicep sleeve options for both. Whether you choose a delicate, embroidered tulle, or flirty floral voile, the Montrose Top is sure to be a hit! RECOMMENDED FABRIC: Light- to mid-weight woven opaque or sheer fabrics with good drape, like silk, lawn, voile or lace.

I have some gorgeous lace in my stash that I keep looking at without knowing what pattern to sew it up with, and hoped that this pattern might be just the one that the lace had been waiting for.  Rather than doing what I often do – just cut straight into it – I decided to sew up a muslin.  I found some mid-weight cotton fabric in stash – not really quite enough, so I had to piece the back, but enough for a muslin that might have been wearable.

I chose to sew view A with the scoop neckline and back yoke feature. I cut and sewed straight size 12 C/D, the same size I’d sewn the Springfield woven top in.

Now, some caveats. The fabric is probably a bit stiffer than this pattern would prefer. It’s a mid-weight cotton, a bit like a quilting cotton, and this would definitely benefit from something softer and drapier.

Also, that piecing in the back – the centre back seam and another piece – really do make the back fit look strange. That’s not the fault of the pattern. However, overall I find the fit of this top on me very disappointing. The front neckline is good, and the back neckline and yoke sit nicely across my back. The front sticks out at the bottom, the darts are probably a little high, and the shoulders seem too wide. Also, there is a great deal of excess fabric at the upper back sleeve cap.

I really don’t know that I can be bothered adjusting this pattern to work with my body.  I need the bigger fit through the body, but my upper chest/back/shoulders are comparatively small.  My arms are pretty average I think – this is the regular sleeve option, not the one for a fuller bicep – and this sleeve has way too much space in it for me.

My first thoughts were to narrow the shoulders, remove fabric from the upper sleeve head, lower the bust darts, should I go up a cup size?  I’m a C cup….nah, I think I’ll sew something else.