Vogue 9161 – Marcy Tilton top and skirt
I have clear memories of flicking through pattern books in my younger days, looking at some of the ‘art-teacher chic’ patterns and thinking ‘who would ever want to wear those’? A few years pass by, then a few more, and now I have the answer. I want to wear those!
Our styles do change and evolve over the years. Partly this is in response to body changes, partly it’s to do with what we see around us, and I think that very much it’s to do with our state of mind. The human race is so diverse – isn’t it a wonderful thing that there are many styles of clothes that we can choose from?
I turn fifty years old in a couple of months time. Turning fifty feels like a highly pivotal point for me. It’s given me focus. I’m pretty much half way through my life. How do I feel about my life? What it has been, what I hope it will become? How do I feel about myself, especially at this stage of my life? How do I feel about my looks and my style, and how I present myself?
I’ve always been interested in clothes and style. I remember poring through the pages of weekly and monthly magazines that made their way into the house as a child and teenager. I’ve read all those books about dressing to ‘flatter’ and have had my colours ‘done’ (twice, with different results each time). Sewing really gives me the freedom to experiment with style in a way that I don’t think I could do if I bought my clothes.
So, as I rapidly approach fifty, what do I think about style? Actually, nothing that I think about style is necessarily set in stone. When it comes to choosing my own clothes, the first thing that I think of is comfort. I have absolutely no interest in wearing clothes that pinch or dig in or restrict my movement (although I sometimes will wear heels in situations where I don’t have to walk much – I love the look of them). And I need to feel like myself in my clothes. I need to put them on and be Lara, not someone else’s idea of me, not what Trinny and Susannah would say is me. My clothes need to feel good to me both physically and psychologically. I like colour, I like variety, I like to mix up shapes and silhouettes. I am not interested in trying to look taller or slimmer or to pretend that I have a waist that I know I don’t actually have. That said, the prevailing culture that I have grown up in and live in assumes that I do want to do those things, and I acknowledge that I am most likely conditioned to aim for that to a certain degree. I suppose that I don’t dress to look larger – but if that’s what happens, too bad!
Some people find their style when they’re young, and stick to it. Many of us even have friends who haven’t changed their hairstyle much over the course of their lives! Others play with their style, changing it all the time. I like to think that mine evolves. I have changed as a person over the past almost fifty years – so it is logical to me that the way I present myself changes too. I imagine that this process will continue.
Oh my, that got a bit philosophical all of a sudden! I’d better get back to the clothes – after all, this is a sewing blog. The pattern is Vogue 9161, a Marcy Tilton top and skirt combination. From the website: Very loose-fitting, pullover top has neck band, raglan sleeves and stitched hem. Skirt (cut on crosswise grain) has elasticized waistband, right side pocket with casing and tie, tucks/pleats, yoke back, shaped hemline, bias hem facing, and invisible side zipper. Note: Top and skirt, no provisions provided for adjustments.
You really do need the line drawings to appreciate the details of these items.
I sewed the top in linen knit from Rathdowne fabrics, and the skirt in a checked cotton that came from the Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 table ages ago. The top was a terrific match for a linen knit. Loads of drape, little to no recovery needed (those linen knits are delightful to wear but they’re really not suited to lots of knit patterns). The only part that really needed to fit me was the shoulders and bust. As you can see there is loads of ease in this pattern! I chose to sew the Medium, which is size 12-14. A note on sizing – according to the pattern envelopes I measure around size 18 (larger for my waist). That would be a ridiculous amount of ease for my shoulders and chest and hips. I choose the size that I sew according to a few things – the pattern size measurements, the finished garment measurements (sometimes you have to actually measure these on the pattern pieces; they’re not always printed) and the style of the garment. I look to see what parts are close fitting, and ensure that they will fit my body. The rest will be accommodated by the ease.
There are gussets inserted into the side seams to give this top loads of swing. I chose to twin needle topstitch along the front angled shoulder seams to give them more strength, and also used the twin needle to secure the neckband and the hems. Double sided fusible tape really was my friend when it came to hemming. These linen knits can stretch out so terribly easily! The top was actually pretty straightforward to sew. If you are planning on making this, do note that it’s pretty short. This is to keep the proportions of the top and skirt in combination looking good, and I think that it works really well, but it won’t be to everyone’s taste. I’m also rather short-waisted – my height is in my legs more than my torso – so take that into account too. I also want to point out my gorgeous necklace – a hand-made gift from a highly talented friend. Thanks so much Kathryn!
The skirt took a while to sew. Lots of pattern pieces to be cut out single layer, with lots of tucks and folds and darts etc to be marked onto each piece. And you need to make those markings in order to get everything to work out as it should! I rather love the gathered pocket top. I sewed the skirt in size Medium, and included the invisible zip at the waist only to discover that I can pull it on over my comparatively small hips without having to undo the zip. Yay for elastic! It was interesting to sew, and I love the finished effect. Unsurprisingly, it’s much longer on me than it is on the model.
So there you go – some musings tossed in with some garment sewing information. Every time I put this combination on I feel like ‘me’ – that makes it a definite style winner in my book!
You’re turning 50? And here I, at 67, have been treating you like an adult! I could have been your babysitter! Anyway, I have that pattern, but haven’t made it yet. I love the skirt in the plaid. I love arty things, but lately I’ve been a little down, and am only interested in post-apocalyptic neutrals. Plus, I’ve lost my sewing mojo, and just want to sit and knit and listen to audiobooks.
Super cute!
I struggled with establishing my ‘individual style’ – all those years of corporate-type uniforms/wardrobes thinking I was picking my individual style when all I was doing was copying others. Now that I’m retired I have a different lifestyle and I feel free to express myself. I decided that I wanted colour, comfort, usability, simplicity and a capsule-type wardrobe. I eventually found and drew inspiration from The Insouciant Stitcher and Kaliyana-type styles.
Both pieces look great. I too purchased that cotton plaid from the $2 pile, ages ago! Sadly I don’t have enough left to repeat your success. Do you think it possible to lengthen the top if not wearing with that skirt ?
Lara, I so enjoy your blog! Thanks for your philosophical musings and incredible creativity!
I LOVE how this looks on you (now I am thinking, would it on me too??), the fabric you chose for the skirt makes it sooo much nicer than the samples! and the length in you is perfect to my eyes. Boom! : )
Fabulous! These crazy draped skirts do love check fabric don’t they? I think I need this skirt in my life now…
I love this. It takes all the ” should” of how women and women of a certain age are to dress a d throws it out the window.
I am approaching 55 in a few months. And I love me and it is really the first time in my !I’ve I am seeing me. Weird I know.
I love the thought of making these pieces and wearing them because they have no rhyme or reason, they are pure smiles.
Thank you for sharing.
Perfect interpretation of Marcy’s pattern, Lara. You said everything right out of my head! The older I get and the more I sew, the more I look like “me”.
Perfectly “you” interpretation of Marcy’s pattern! Especially love the plaid. And you took all the words out of my head! The more I sew the more I look like me. Can’t buy that in the shops.
Incredible make and it looks so great on you. You did it again…it’s a pattern that I didn’t consider because irs so unusual. You’ve opened up my eyes.
Well said Lara, I love your individualism and love this outfit.
Thanks for this great post. The whole outfit looks great on you but I especially like the top. Perfect paring of pattern-to-fabric. But more importantly was your decision to size down. IMO this top works much better without so much ease. Another way to put this would be that you look way better than the Vogue model. Not bad for a fifty year old!
I’m not s great fan of Marcy tilton designs, but I really like this and it suits you so well. Your version looks much better than the envelope images. I’ve been thinking the same as you about style. I even wrote a blog post a few days ago. Great minds think alike.
I am turning 60 this year and the last ten years have had me contemplating what I think of myself in the process of the usual body changes at this stage in life. Returning to sewing in the last three years has helped a great deal. I now make clothes that fit ME, in the style I like and the colours I like. It has been revolutionary! Well done on your walk in life so far Lara, and thank you for your inspiration. I especially appreciate finding out about Style Arc patterns through you.
Oh Lara bless you . Once again you have totally inspired me. I’ve plipped past this pattern many many times. The line drawings inspiring but the colours used on the models soooo dowdy.
I think you hit the jackpot with your fabrics and colours …….and hight with this design. You look your magnificent self. As for your musings 50 is a most wonderful state of mind. I turned 70 two years ago and it’s amazingly empowering. I think embracing your age is the key to a joyful being. Wendie.
Thank you Lara for the musings. I am about to cut out a different Marcie Tilton pattern that I have been putting off because it is different and looks complicated. Still it doesn’t matter as long as I have a go!!
Love the philosophical musings and agree with what you say about style – I sometimes think that dressing to ‘flatter’ and worrying about a colour palette can dumb-down your style. You can end up very beige, not offensive but not very interesting either.
Yay for philosophical sewing blogs! It adds an extra dimension, and don’t we all love those? I know I do, at least. And, as usual, this looks great. I think this style says a lot about self confidence, no unsure-about-herself woman would dare to step this far away from the style main stream.
I’m 60 tomorrow. Not sure how that happened! I don’t think my style has changed much over the years. However I am starting to appreciate ‘arty’ clothing more now I am older. Not ready to wear it but no longer horrified by it 🙂 I’m with you on being sick of hearing “wear this to make you look taller/slimmer”. Not all of us want or need to do that. Wear what you like and makes you happy I say. Coming back to your outfit – I really like the top, great pattern for the linen. And it goes so well with the colours in the skirt. (I’m afraid I will always be matchy matchy).
Love your musings fabulous lady!
I like this outfit, and I think it would bear repeating in a bright colour too. I don’t feel as though I’ve found ‘my style’ yet and love trying new options. Dress for your own pleasure – not everyone will like it but they can just go hang 😉.
Great outfit really suits you. I am liking those shoes too ?? I am a fan of Lagenlook but have problems with the proportions. I think a long skirt like this might be a good start… just need to figure out what goes on top to get the proportions right 🙂
I really enjoyed the philosophy musings! Sometime it too easy to sew whats new, rather than spend time thinking what I actually like wearing.
It looks so much better on you than on the model!
Hello. Love your skirt. (1) I wonder how tall you are and how close the pattern measurements for the medium match your measurements. I’m thinking that as a short person, I may be better off making a smaller size in the skirt (like you did for the top) so it won’t be overwhelmingly wide. I am 66, by the way; I bought this pattern two years ago, I think, and found a perfect fabric on the Marcy Tilton website; I am finally going to make it to wear for the High Holidays (even though I will attend synagogue by zoom). I really like your sizing on the top, by the way. (2) Also, I wonder whether you have any idea how one might shorten this skirt.
Hi there Janet, I’m 158cm tall (5’2″). It’s a couple of years since I sewed this pattern, and my weight has fluctuated considerably between now and then, so I am not sure how much my measurements matched those of the pattern. I tend to go by finished garment measurements more than the ‘size’ that the pattern envelope suggests to me based on my actual measurements (which means that with Marcy Tilton patterns I generally end up sizing down). Not sure about how you’d shorten the skirt as the shapes of the pattern pieces are unusual. It might take some thought! I just went for it as drafted. Good luck with it; sounds like you’ll have a fabulous outfit for High Holidays!
Thanks so much for your reply. I measured the waistband, which is very large, and I think I’ve decided to make a size small so that there will be less bulk. I usually make a medium, and I, too, find that sizing down is often what I should do with Marcy Tilton patterns. For this particular pattern, I can’t figure out how to measure the ease in the hips; there’s no hipline to measure!!! I was thinking that it might be so big that I should make an extra small. No real way to know without making it, however. I’ll try to remember to send a photo when I’m done. Again, thanks.