The Style Arc Maude tunic pattern as a freebie some months ago.  It’s probably not a pattern that I would have bought.  I generally don’t sew or wear collared shirts much.  But as it turns out I really like this one!

The fabric came from the ‘donations’ bin at Sewjourn. There’s a big cardboard box there that has evolved into a collection of fabric that people are willing to share with others. It really comes in handy – quite often it will have the perfect scrap to cut out a facing or pockets or similar when you’ve forgotten to do it before leaving home. And other times it contains full lengths of fabric that someone else no longer wants. That’s where this came from, thank you to the donor!

I love the print, but as you can see the fabric is clearly very synthetic and has developed static and is sticking to me quite a bit. It was a good choice in terms of print and drape, but was also difficult to cut exactly on grain. That centre back seam is twisting a bit – it’s on the bias, but doesn’t look to be correctly on the bias.

There are actually only three pattern pieces for this tunic. The front and back are cut in one without shoulder seams, just that centre back seam. There is a collar stand and collar piece, and that’s it. The centre fronts have self faced button bands, and there is stitching to form armholes. From the Style Arc website: For a new season update to your wardrobe you can’t go past this gorgeous tunic. This cleverly drafted pattern has no shoulder seams and the outside top-stitched side seams allow this tunic to flow with ease. FABRIC SUGGESTION Silk, crepe, rayon or any soft woven fabric with drape.

I just realised that the centre back seam is missing from the line drawing!  Depending on fabric width you could cut this top with the back ‘seam’ on the fold, which would eliminate the seam, but then you’d be left with the front facings on the bias.  Turning them neatly would then be super tricky!  I strongly suggest keeping the centre front on the straight grain.

I like this much more than anticipated, and would give it another go in a less staticy (I know, that’s not a word) fabric and pay more attention when cutting. This is size 12, no alterations. I was surprised to get a request for the same style from the teen, so it must be okay!

I didn’t really sew these two patterns in order to wear them together – but in the end, that’s exactly what I did do! It’s that compulsion to sew things as outfits, I suppose.

The top is the Style Arc Besharl tee. From their website: This is a great basic “Tee” with a difference. The extended shoulder line creates the appearance of a short sleeve and the interesting angled front seam replaces the side seam. For the back panel why not use a contrast fabric or lace? FABRIC SUGGESTION Jersey or any knit tee shirt fabric.

As usual, they’re right – this is a great basic tee with a difference.  It’s also very easy to construct, all on the overlocker.  I did, as usual, use my sewing machine and a twin needle to secure the hems and the neckband.

Speaking of the neckband, I should have cut it a bit shorter. It’s a fraction wavy, which means that it needed to be stretched a little more. I always follow this tutorial when determining the length of knit neckbands – I find it much more reliable than using the supplied pattern piece, although the supplied piece is a handy guide for suggested width. Anyway, every fabric responds a little differently. This isn’t wavy enough for me to redo it though! The fabric came from Super Cheap Fabrics – it feels pretty synthetic but is comfortable to wear. Clare wants a tee from the leftovers.

My favourite part is the back, where I ran the stripes vertically along the centre back panel! I think it’s a really fun touch. I sewed a straight size 12 in this tee, without alteration. It’s a relaxed and easy style, and I’ll definitely use this pattern again. So, on to the pants.

These are the Style Arc Luna pants, in Style Arc bengaline (the colour is called Hibiscus – somewhere between coral/red/orange, depending on what I put it beside). From their website: Great stretch pant suitable for our fabulous stretch bengaline. Luna pant has an elastic waist band, faux fly front and the 7/8th leg length has a wide hem with a side leg opening. These pants are simple to sew and ever so comfortable to wear. FABRIC SUGGESTION Bengaline, any stretch woven with approx 5% spandex.

I’m 158cm tall, so knew that if I wanted these to be 7/8 length as designed I would need to make my usual Style Arc pants length alteration, removing around two and a half inches of length in total by taking two folds from the pattern pieces (one above and one below the knee) before cutting.  This worked just fine!

As usual, I sewed a size 10 in the pants, even though my waist is more like a size 16 to 18. Once again the stretch in the bengaline came to my rescue, providing comfy pants that stay up. I did include the seam and fly details, but forgot to get a photo – but you can rest assured that I will always wear these with a top over the waist anyway. I don’t tuck in. Haven’t since I was about 25 – and even then I seem to remember it was a half tuck…

The deep hems and side slits worked out beautifully (once again, not a great photo of them, but believe me anyway).  As usual, most construction was on the overlocker, with the sewing machine used for the side slits and the hems. These were a quick and simple sew.

I do find it all too matchy matchy worn together though! Will definitely mix up these pieces with other wardrobe items in future.

McCalls 7094 is a shirt/blouse pattern.  But as you can see, I’m wearing a dress.  There’s a story behind this dress!

Actually, there’s a few stories behind this dress. Firstly, I sewed it last year, but it’s taken me until now to wear it. The fabric is a bit sheer, and it took me a while how to wear it comfortably, and in what weather it was best suited. I finally decided that I needed to wear it with leggings underneath (due to the high see-through factor) but the top was fine with a boring beige bra underneath.

Secondly, I didn’t actually cut this dress out – or begin the sewing! This was passed on to me by Leith, whose mum Christine had started sewing it for herself but decided that she didn’t want it after all. Many thanks to Christine for cutting it out at dress length, and for sewing half of it!

Thirdly, when I posted this on Instagram, Helen said that she had the same fabric, but had passed hers on at Restash. Now, I happened to know that Leith and Christine attended that Restash event – so we were able to put two and two together and work out that Helen in Melbourne had dropped off the fabric to Restash, where Christine had picked it up and taken it to Brisbane and cut out and started on the dress. Then Leith brought it back to Melbourne and I snaffled it from her and sewed it up! Helen says that she got the fabric from an op shop initially – so I have no idea at all where it originally came from, or the fibre content. It’s quite sheer, yet quite crisp and easy to sew and press.

This is actually a really lovely pattern. The description from the McCalls website is as follows:  Very loose-fitting, pullover tops have neck and front bands that form inverted notches, front pleated and back gathered into yoke with forward shoulder seams, no shoulder seams, one-way front pleat and narrow hem. A: Sleeveless. A, D: High-low hemline. B:Contrast bands. B, C: Button tabs. C: Back tulip hem. D: Long sleeves. Rolled sleeves Band C, and shaped hemline A, D: Wrong side shows. Designed for lightweight to medium-weight woven fabrics. FABRICS: Crepe de Chine, Georgette, Challis, Crepes.

My dress is a lengthened version of view D.  It’s size Medium, which is a 12-14.  I wore it with the sleeves rolled up a bit.  Construction was mostly on the sewing machine, with the overlocker used to finish edges.  It was important to take things slowly with the neckband and placket in order to make sure that everything lined up and sat where it should.  I hand-stitched the neckband facing in place on the inside.  The hem was finished by turning a narrow fold twice to the inside and top-stitching.  A good shot of steam took care of the overall finish!

I possibly wouldn’t have bought this pattern for myself, but now that I have it in my stash, and have sewn it successfully, I’m very glad that I have it and will definitely give it another go. It’s not a quick sew, but isn’t onerous either. Enjoyable to make and to wear! Many thanks to Christine/Leith/Helen for enabling this dress.

Although I generally buy my Style Arc patterns in hard copy, I am a sucker for a Style Arc pdf pattern sale.  It’s when I buy the patterns that were in my mental ‘maybe’ list, as long as they don’t take too many A4 pages.  The Elani tunic fitted in to that category.

I sewed this in a printed linen remnant from Darn Cheap Fabrics. I am really focusing this year on sewing down my stash. We’re in mid-March, and I’ve only bought two pieces of fabric. Some green linen that I bought in NZ – so really, that’s a souvenir – and yesterday a piece of embroidered denim that will become a dress for Clare. So I’m doing pretty well! (Let’s not mention the restash fabric that entered my house and other fabric gifts from a generous friend…)

The pattern description from the website is as follows:  Versatile style with all the features you would want in a tunic. Easy to make and wear with its dropped shoulder, turned back cuff, inseam pockets and a dropped back hemline. How could you not love it? FABRIC SUGGESTION Linen, Crepe, or any suitable woven.

I think that there are some similarities between this tunic and the Adeline dress.  The faced V neckline, the cocoon shaping, the high-low hemline.  But there are enough differences for me to justify buying the Elani pattern rather than trying to modify the Adeline.  The inseam pockets, for one!

The sleeve bands/cuffs are also cut separately and sewn on. I topstitched the facings into place, but most of the construction was on the overlocker. I sewed a straight size 12. In these photos I’m wearing the tunic with the Style Arc Sage pants, sewn in Style Arc bengaline.

I especially like the shape of these pants – a narrow leg, without being skin tight. I cut the front yoke piece double, which adds a bit of tummy support. I find that the waistband width and the rise of this pants pattern is super comfortable.  They’re constructed on the overlocker, with the hems twin needled.

As with all Style Arc pants patterns, I remove length from the pattern piece both above and below the knee before I cut them out. I’m about 158 cm tall. From the Style Arc website:  Designed to sit on the waist this is our new Bengaline pant block. Shaped front yoke and side panels along with its fashionable slim leg is ideal for all shapes and sizes. FABRIC SUGGESTION & DESCRIPTION Stretch Bengaline is perfect! Or any stretch woven with approx. 5% spandex.

When sewing bengaline pants I choose the pattern size according to my hip size.  Remember, my waist is two to three sizes larger than my hips.  The stretch in the bengaline accommodates the difference very nicely.  I cut the waistband elastic to the same length as the waistband pattern piece.  This means that there is negative ease around my waist and mid-section – which is also what keeps my pants up.  A completely different fitting situation to those with a ‘pear’ shaped body!  I’ve tried grading patterns to fit my waist measurement, but when I do that the differential between my hips and waist isn’t enough for them to stay on properly!  I need that negative ease (therefore elastic) around the waist.

All in all, this is another pleasing Style Arc combination!

This is one of those patterns that I bought almost immediately upon release, and sewed up almost as quickly.

Unfortunately the photos are a little fuzzy, but I have to work with what I’ve got! The pattern is Style Arc’s Teddy Designer top.  From their website:  This uniquely crafted design comes in two lengths – top or tunic. The gorgeous collar sits high on the neck. The stitched facings and swing back with a high-low hemline give this style a luxe look. Make the top to give your look an instant update or make the tunic for a more effortless silhouette. FABRIC SUGGESTION Linen, silk, crepe.

Some of you may have noticed in the pants in the above diagram – they are the Teddy designer pant.  I chose not to purchase and make the coordinating pants as they have a fitted waistband and front zip opening – and I am all about the elastic waist.  I know it wouldn’t be hard to modify them, but I didn’t feel highly inclined.  I do like the line drawing though.  Some of you may also have noticed that the collar of the Teddy top has distinct similarity with the collar of the Style Arc Toni designer dress, and yes, it is constructed in a very similar manner.

I chose to sew the top length of the pattern, but there is a tunic length option as well. The top length is great on my short torso, especially when paired with a wide legged pant (the pants I’m wearing in these photos are from a 1990s McCalls pattern). The fabric is a wonderful orange linen that was originally part of Blogless Anna’s stash. I adore it! You can see the colour and self-striped texture better in the detail photos.

As you can see, the collar can be worn standing up – it’s very high, and feels rather dramatic and chic – or folded back.

There is some precision required to get the intersection of the front and collar seams exactly right. Follow the instructions, pin carefully, and even consider a bit of hand-stitching if necessary to ensure that everything lines up exactly as it should. It’s not terribly difficult, but you need to pay attention. The sleeve bands are a nice touch, and are straightforward to attach.

I constructed this top on the sewing machine, pressing seams open before finishing the seam allowances on the overlocker. I really like the amount of flare in the body of the top, and the gently shaped hemline. Facings are the perfect way to finish the bottom edge, and they’re just the right size to make the top swing nicely.

I sewed straight size 12, no alterations. It would have been worth considering a forward shoulder alteration of a centimetre or so – which is actually an alteration that I feel I should do more often in general nowadays. Otherwise I’ve selected size based on bust/shoulder measurement. Given the shape of this top I didn’t need to take waist size into account. Actually, I never choose a pattern according to my waist size anyway.

This top was an absolute hit for me – and I received many compliments on it (many from random strangers) when I first wore it! That’s always a pleasant feeling. Highly recommended!

Really, anything named for Tilda Swinton (is there any other Tilda?) has to be good.

I first sewed the Style Arc Tilda tunic up years ago – and fortunately for me, I blogged the two I made so can tell you it was back in 2012. I think that was in the relatively early days of Style Arc patterns – it’s printed in whole pattern pieces on much thinner paper (I think on a plotter). The tunics I sewed then weren’t worn a great deal – I’m not sure why, but in retrospect I think that this pattern was ahead of its time a bit. The sleeve shaping is unusual.

The shoulder seam isn’t all that long, but there is plenty of fabric in the underarm. This means that there’s interesting draping where the sleeve meets the body of the tunic. I really love this now, but don’t think that I was as comfortable with it back in 2012. Boy, I wish I’d kept the khaki jersey tunic I’d made then!

From the Style Arc website:  This latest look “Tilda Tunic “ features a Kimono style sleeve and dropped raglan armhole and “V” neck. Wear it with your favourite camisole to give you a stylish look that would suit any occasion. FABRIC SUGGESTION & DESCRIPTION Jersey, any soft knit fabric.

I sewed this version in linen knit from Rathdowne Fabrics.  It’s a perfect fabric choice for this loose style, and it hangs and drapes well.  Linen knits don’t have a great deal of recovery, so are much better in this type of style than something fitted.  I sewed straight size 12, mostly on the overlocker, and used the sewing machine to highlight the raglan seamlines and shoulder seam lines as well as to secure the neckline and the hems.

This is an early Style Arc pattern, so the instructions are quite succinct. But the diagrams are great, and really, it’s a tee. I’ll definitely sew this one again!

One Fab Tee is a Crafty Mamas pattern.  I’ve been happy with every single Crafty Mamas pattern I’ve ever used.  Lisa has them professionally drafted, and they seem to fit the average person (ie non-model) very well.

From the Crafty Mamas website: Crafty Mamas One Fab Tee is a wardrobe staple- a pattern you will use over and over again. Designed with real figures in mind- One Fab Tee is a relaxed fit t-shirt with the option of a scoop neck or v neck. The neckband has two options, a slim band or a slightly wider than normal- to allow for some fun contrast play with your fabrics and create a little optical illusion magic in the bust and neck area. One Fab Tee has several sleeve options- long sleeve, ¾, cap, short, or even sleeveless- so this one tee pattern will take you all through the year. The back piece can be sewn with a curvy centre back seam ( to better flatter our womanly shapes!) or sewn in the straighter one piece, you decide! Designed for knit fabrics only. 

As you can see, I chose to sew the short sleeved, V neck version.  I also chose to sew it with the curvier centre back seam.  I sewed straight size Medium without any alterations for my first go at this pattern.  Construction was all on the overlocker, with hems and neckband secured with a zig zag stitch on the sewing machine.

I think that the centre back seam was a good choice. The fabric is one of those super soft, thin marl viscose knits that is super drapey. I think that it’s resulted in a tee that isn’t completely reflective of the way that the pattern would generally fit. Actually, I might pull the pattern out today and pair it with a cotton lycra of a heavier weight viscose knit and sew that up to compare the difference. This tee is much roomier overall than I expected, but I’m quite sure that is due to the fabric choice. As those of you who sew with knits regularly know, the knit that you choose can make a really significant difference to the eventual fit, let alone the drape!

The instructions were very clear, and the drafting was solid. I do recommend this pattern among the plethora of tee patterns that are out there (I suspect that I own twenty….) and will definitely be giving it another run.