Month: November 2017

adult's clothing, sewing

Style Arc Lacey dress

Well, that was an unintentional blogging break!  Do other people find that November is one of their busiest months?  I have had two trips to Sewjourn in the last month, so actually have lots of new garments that need to be blogged.  I’ll make a start with the Style Arc Lacey dress, sewn on my first trip.

Style Arc Lacey dress in rayon from Rathdowne Fabrics

Now, I’m going to be honest with you – when I first saw the Style Arc Lacey dress pattern I thought no way! I wore pretty much that exact same dress in apricot and white checked gauze back in 1985….and I really do try not to wear the same styles at almost 50 as I did at 17. But then I looked at the line drawing again, heard a few people mutter “it’s very Gorman-esque” (and I always laugh at comparisons to Gorman styles, as I reckon the general aesthetic is quite mid-80s), and I realised that it would be a very cool and easy to wear summer dress. So I made one after all.

Style Arc Lacey dress in rayon from Rathdowne Fabrics

I sewed size 12, my usual Style Arc size in this type of silhouette, and didn’t make any alterations. The fabric is a divine printed rayon from Rathdowne Fabrics. It comes in another colourway as well that is more pink/blue.

Style Arc Lacey dress in rayon from Rathdowne Fabrics

From the Style Arc website: Slip into the fabulous Lacey Knit Dress. It’s easy to make and easy to wear. Lacey will work with either knit or woven fabrics. Sitting on the waist, Lacey has a slightly gathered skirt with side pockets. The interesting bodice has an extended shoulder line that creates a short sleeve that can be worn straight or rolled. The bodice has clever design lines that allow directional stripes or mixed textures. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Knit, jersey, rayon or silk.

lacey-dress-product

Because I sewed the dress in rayon I decided to eliminate the side pockets.  I find that pockets just weigh dresses down when sewn in drapey fabrics like rayon, but I know that some people insist on pockets in everything.  Well, the option is there.  This was a very fast dress to sew, and most construction was on the overlocker.  I’ve mostly worn it without rolling up the sleeves (for more arm coverage – I’ve also had a skin cancer removed in the past few weeks, although not from my arm, and it’s renewed my sun exposure paranoia and increased my use of SPF 50 sunscreen).

Style Arc Lacey dress in rayon from Rathdowne Fabrics

This pattern would be fun sewn up in stripes,where you could play with the stripe direction on the bodice. This is definitely not the last time you’ll see me sew this dress – as it happens, I’ve already sewn it in size 4 for Clare!

Style Arc Lacey dress in rayon from Rathdowne Fabrics

Despite being highly reminiscent of my 1985 dress, I think that it’s been modernised with the placement of the waist seam and the relative small degree of skirt gathering.  It’s all those subtle tweaks that keep styles modern I suppose – whatever modern means!

adult's clothing, DCF Challenge, sewing

Seasonal challenge – Style Arc Lara Jane dress

This season Emma and I decided to tweak things a little bit for our seasonal challenge*.  Rather than both sewing the same fabric (from Darn Cheap Fabrics), we decided to sew the same pattern!  The pattern that we chose to sew was the Style Arc Lara Jane dress/top.

Style Arc Lara Jane dress in rayon from The Cloth Shop

I suspect that many of you may have twigged by now that the lovely women over at Style Arc actually named this dress after me! I feel extremely honoured and flattered. And fortunately – I love the dress!

Style Arc Lara Jane dress in rayon from The Cloth Shop

These photos really would have benefitted from a background that wasn’t pretty much the same colour as my arms! They blend into it and it makes it difficult to see the overall lines of the dress. From the Style Arc website:  This gorgeous “cold shoulder” dress features a feminine frilled sleeve which is perfect for all occasions. Make it in a silk for that special occasion or in rayon for a casual shift dress. As an option this dress can be made with or without the sleeve. Why not turn it into a cold shoulder top? FABRIC SUGGESTION: Silk, rayon, crepe or any soft woven fabric.

lara-jane-dress

I sewed this in size 12, but added a bit more room to the front for my tummy by cutting it a bit wider from the bust darts down.  I’m glad that I did.  I don’t think that I made any alterations to the pattern length.  The fabric is a beautifully geometrically striped rayon from The Cloth Shop.  It was lovely to sew, but did cause me a few dramas in cutting out as I did my best to centre the print and line up the stripes.  They’re not completely perfect down the centre back, but I suspect that only another sewer would notice!

Style Arc Lara Jane dress in rayon from The Cloth Shop

I can usually get most dresses and tops over my pin head without having to undo buttons (so I often leave out centre back openings and their closures) but this dress does actually benefit from having the opening. I can just get it on without it – but not without messing up my hairdo and/or makeup!

Style Arc Lara Jane dress in rayon from The Cloth Shop

I chose to do the topstitching in the same cream colour that is in the print, but in hindsight – mostly after looking at these photos – wish that I’d chosen one of the other colours. The cream stands out that little bit more than I would prefer. The only slightly fiddly part of sewing this dress is doing the narrow hems around the bottom of the sleeve flounces. I just turned a narrow hem twice and stitched it, but there are lots of tutorials around for turning very narrow hems that would probably have given an even nicer and more precise finish. I’ve read those tutorials and instructions – I’ve just never taken the time to follow them!

Style Arc Lara Jane dress in rayon from The Cloth Shop

The sleeve cut out is bound with bias binding on the inside, which encloses the edge of the sleeve and flounce and joins them together. Once again, it’s a little bit fiddly but isn’t difficult. Other than that, this was an extremely easy dress to sew.

Style Arc Lara Jane dress in rayon from The Cloth Shop

So you know what pattern Emma has used for this season’s challenge – but what version of the pattern did she sew, and in what fabric? Pop over to her blog and take a look!  From the sneaky peeks on Instagram I know that it will be wonderful.

Style Arc Lara Jane dress in rayon from The Cloth Shop

And as for me – I’m very pleased at how this dress has turned out. It’s comfortable, with plenty of ease through the mid-section, without being very voluminous. The sleeve cutouts are still on trend, but don’t actually extend to the shoulders and interfere with bra wearing. It feels a bit special – not surprising considering that the pattern bears my name! Thanks again, Style Arc!

Style Arc Lara Jane dress in rayon from The Cloth Shop

Emma and I started the DCF Seasonal Challenge a year or two ago – we buy  a couple of metres of the same fabric from Darn Cheap Fabrics each season, and each make a garment.  We then reveal it on our blogs on the same day.  It’s just a fun thing that we started when we realised how often we buy and sew the same fabrics (often from Darn Cheap).  This season we’re using the same pattern, rather than the same fabric!

adult's clothing, sewing

Style Arc Patricia Rose dress

This recent Style Arc pattern was a no-brainer for me.  V neckline, no waist definition – just what I love!

Style Arc Patricia Rose dress in hand-woven Thai cotton

This is the Style Arc Patricia Rose dress. From the website: Feel comfortable and look great in this gorgeous V-neck dress. The under-bust horizontal tuck is enhanced by the front inverted pleat, side in-seam pockets and roll-up sleeves. This is a loose fitting garment and therefore has considerable positive ease. FABRIC SUGGESTION Linen, crepe, rayon.

patricia-rose-dress

This was an easy dress to sew. As always, it is impeccably drafted and all the pieces fit together exactly as they should. I sewed size 12. And yes, as always, I should probably have considered adding a sway back adjustment. But I didn’t.

Style Arc Patricia Rose dress in hand-woven Thai cotton

This is another fabric souvenir dress. I bought the green striped hand-woven cotton on my last visit to Chiang Mai. Thanks again Gaye for doing all the reconnaissance for me and finding such wonderful little shops that sell such wonderful fabrics! I absolutely adore this one – and it’s just perfect for this dress.

Style Arc Patricia Rose dress in hand-woven Thai cotton

The V neckline is faced, and sits very nicely. I really like that tuck as well. The bust darts originating from the armhole seem to work well with my C cup too. And the sleeves! Great length for autumn or spring weather, and the cuffs are simple to sew but add a lovely detail.

Style Arc Patricia Rose dress in hand-woven Thai cotton

The hem is also fairly wide, which I rather like. It’s hemmed to pattern length which on me is right on the bend of the knee. I think that any longer would mess with the proportions. There are also side seam pockets. Often I leave them out of dresses, as I find that they just weight them down, but they work quite well in this one. I did most of the sewing on the machine but finished edges on the overlocker. Good thing that I have bright green overlocker thread!  Those cute embroidered shoes came from Chiang Mai as well.

Style Arc Patricia Rose dress in hand-woven Thai cotton

I feel happy when I look at photos of this dress, and it’s been very comfortable to wear. Another Style Arc winner!

children's clothing, kids clothing, sewing, tween

Hey June Woodstock swing tee

As regular readers of my blog know, I’ve had a lot of success with Hey June patterns for tees for the girls.  When the free Woodstock swing tee pattern because available I thought that I’d give it a go as well!  I printed out the pattern, taped it together, then quickly cut out and sewed up a tee for Clare in size 12, the size I’ve used for her in the past.

Hey June Woodstock swing tee size 12 in cotton spandex from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Um, no! She could get it on, but it was very fitted through the chest and shoulders and the armpits were uncomfortably high. Fortunately, we have a smaller model available.

Hey June Woodstock swing tee size 12 in cotton spandex from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Now, that’s better! Stella was the very happy recipient of this tee. The fabric is cotton/spandex, soft and stretchy, originally from Darn Cheap Fabrics. It was left over from a previous project – my husband has a tee in the same fabric.

Hey June Woodstock swing tee size 12 in cotton spandex from Darn Cheap Fabrics

This tee has a lovely shape, with gentle swing through the body and a high-low hem with what I consider to be just the right amount of curve. There are a minimal number of pattern pieces – front, back, cap sleeve, neckband. And it’s all sewn on the overlocker. Hems were topstitched on the sewing machine.

Hey June Woodstock swing tee size 12 in cotton spandex from Darn Cheap Fabrics

By this stage I was really wondering what was going on with sizing. I printed off another copy of the pattern and this time I cut out a size 16.

Hey June Woodstock swing tee size 16 in cotton knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

So much better! This time the fabric is a cotton jersey (no spandex/lycra in this one), also from Darn Cheap Fabrics. It’s the leftovers from one of my tee shirts!

Hey June Woodstock swing tee size 16 in cotton knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

So by now I was in a huge quandary about what had happened with the sizing. It’s a pattern range I’ve used before and found to be consistent. I checked that the pattern had printed at the right size by measuring the one inch printed square, and it had. And then I emailed the designer! She was lovely and responded quickly – she hadn’t found the sizing to be inconsistent at all in the tees that she had sewn for her kids. Now, remember that this IS a free pattern, and it’s well drafted, and all the pattern pieces fit together nicely. I am putting it down to fabric choice. Let’s go back and read the pattern description.

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See that bit where it says “at least 30% stretch”?  I don’t think that my fabric choices met that requirement.  The cotton spandex black and white eyes print has a nice amount of stretch, but not the amount that a rayon spandex for example would have.  And the cotton jersey pineapple print has relatively minimal stretch.  This pattern is designed to be quite fitted around the shoulders and chest.  There probably just wasn’t enough stretch in the size 12 for Clare! The pineapples definitely needed the size 16.

Hey June Woodstock swing tee size 16 in cotton knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

It’s always fascinating to see the ways that fabric/fibre choice affect the size and drape of finished garments (and I’ve actually got another example of that coming up soon with another couple of summer tees for Clare). I’ve been sewing for years and years and I’m still learning!

Hey June Woodstock swing tee size 12 in cotton spandex from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I really need to get a photo with father/younger daughter and mother/older daughter matching tee-shirts. Isn’t it our job to embarrass our kids?