Day: 20 August 2017

adult's clothing, Cashmerette, sewing

Cashmerette Springfield top

I’ve had pleasing results from the Cashmerette patterns I’ve used so far, but they have been designed for knits.  The Springfield top was my first foray into a Cashmerette pattern that was designed for wovens.

Cashmerette Springfield top in linen and cotton batik

From the Cashmerette website: Make room in your closet for the Springfield Top! This woven shell is ideal for layering under a cardigan or pairing with dark jeans and your favorite heels. View A features a loose, swingy silhouette and optional hem band, while View B uses back princess seams to beautifully skim your curves. Both variations have scooped necklines, back yokes, and comfortably split side seams. Bring on the weekend! SEWING LEVEL: Beginner. SIZING: 12 to 28, in three cup sizes (C/D, E/F, G/H). RECOMMENDED FABRIC: Light to midweight woven fabric such as cotton lawn, linen, chambray, rayon, crepe or silk. Bias facings are suitable for lightweight fabric only (Store-bought bias tape can also be used). 

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I chose to sew view A, utilising fabric scraps that were in stash.  In knits I’ve sewn the size 12 C/D in Cashmerette patterns.  Because of my weight gain and because this pattern was for wovens, I decided to sew it in size 14 C/D.  As it turns out, this was a mistake, and that’s why I only have photos of it on Ada. I should have stayed with the 12 C/D. This top is now in the wardrobe of one of my friends.

Cashmerette Springfield top in linen and cotton batik

As far as the pattern goes, I think it’s very nicely drafted. Although this was too big on me, the overall shape was excellent. I’m definitely going to make this pattern again. I liked the back yoke detailing, and the splits in the at the side hems.

Cashmerette Springfield top in linen and cotton batik

As usual, I made my own bias binding to finish the armholes edges, from the same solid green linen as the back yoke and hem bands. The main fabric is batik.

Cashmerette Springfield top in linen and cotton batik

I’ll definitely pull this pattern out again when the weather warms up. I’d like to try view B and see how those back princess seams go with my short back waist length.
I have a feeling that Cashmerette patterns have a swayback alteration already built in to them (and I suspect they also have a forward shoulder too).  There’s always more to discover in the world of sewing!

adult's clothing, Lekala, sewing

Lekala 4403 – a formal dress for Freya

Last year I had a call from my cousin Freya asking if I had any ball dresses in my wardrobe that she could borrow.  Although I have a fair few formal dresses, none of them were quite right for Freya (although we are similar heights we are shaped quite differently) so I offered to sew her a dress, with the proviso that it was a Lekala pattern.  I knew that we wouldn’t have much opportunity for fitting so a pattern made to measure was the safest bet.

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We ended up choosing Lekala 4403, described as “dress with long skirt”.  I took all the measurements that we needed, and ordered the pattern (they arrive the same day via email – usually within about 15 minutes of placing the order).  I rummaged through my fabric stash and found some vintage red jacquard fabric – just perfect for a Fire Ball!  I bought matching silk/cotton fabric to line the dress from Darn Cheap Fabrics.  Then I went for it and sewed it up.

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I dialled Ada’s measurements down to better match Freya’s and tried the dress on the dressform.  An issue immediately became apparent – check out the depth of that neckline slash.

Lekala 4403 in vintage jacquard from stash

As always, I should have listened to my instincts that said, as I was sewing the neckline notch and slashing into it, “my goodness, this looks a little too deep”. It most certainly was! Neither Freya nor I mind showing a bit of cleavage, but as it was this dress gave almost full exposure.  The line drawing was definitely not accurate in that regard, and because I was in a hurry when I sewed the dress I didn’t stop to listen to that little voice that was trying to alert me. So it was time for a save.

Lekala 4403 in vintage jacquard from stash

I made a little insert from the same fabric and pinned it in place, but wasn’t able to get it just right until I tried it on Freya. Then we had a bit of an issue with the neckline corners. Would they sit flat against the body? Not really at that stage – they would have needed interfacing. There was a definite tendency for them to flop forward.  Unfortunately I hadn’t taken the time to think about that during the construction process.

Lekala 4403 in vintage jacquard from stash

Otherwise, the dress fitted Freya perfectly! I was really happy with all the other proportions on her, and it showed off her small waistline beautifully. That is one of the things that I enjoy about sewing for Freya – she has the little waist that I have never had, and I sew quite different styles for her as a consequence. It’s fun!

Lekala 4403 in vintage jacquard from stash

The invisible zip inserted easily and zipped up beautifully when she put the dress on.  It also sat nicely across her body, including across her back and shoulders. Getting the waistband seams and pintucks to line up exactly at the side seams was more of a challenge.

Lekala 4403 in vintage jacquard from stash

Not perfect, but not too far off either! So, what to do about those front neckline corners?

Lekala 4403 in vintage jacquard from stash

In the end, Freya decided that they looked good as an open neckline, a bit like a collar. Fortunately I’d matched the lining perfectly and had made certain to sew very accurately in that area. I only managed to get one photo of Freya all dressed up for the ball (she was on the organising committee so spent her evening dashing around being busy rather than relaxing for photos) but I think that she looks gorgeous!

Lekala 4403

Pretty good for a two week timeline with only one opportunity for fitting, I reckon! Having that Lekala pattern as a base was the key. I know that Nicole uses Lekala a lot for her daughter’s formal dresses – they have a terrific range of formal designs and it really does make a difference in getting that fit right.