This is another blog post that is very, very late.  I sewed this Designer Stitch Georgia top last year – possibly around 8 to 10 months ago.

Ann Grose of Designer Stitch has developed patterns for Australian clothing companies for many years, and also teaches dressmaking. She began her own line of pdf patterns last year, and is steadily adding to the lineup.

This pattern can be made as a dress or shortened to a top. As is obvious from these photos, I chose the top. From the website: Georgia offers a mix of fabrics and choices with its contrast yoke and sleeve design. The front yoke can be made in mesh and/or lace – the sleeves in linen, cotton or pleather. With an alternate back panel consisting of a back yoke and an optional centre back pleat the Georgia offers many possibilities as either a Dress and/or Top.

I chose to sew the version with the centre back pleat, and after some deliberation I think I decided to sew pattern size 4 (Australian size 12) although it could have been one size smaller. This style has plenty of ease.

I used the last scraps of my Merchant and Mills mustard linen for the yokes, and some lovely jacquard mystery fabric that was in stash (possibly came from the Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 table at some stage) that feels like a viscose and toned very well with the linen. I adore the two fabrics together.

I made fairly wide bias for the neckline binding. It’s worth taking a look at the samples made up on the Designer Stitch website and others on the Facebook page – I’ve seen such terrific versions of this pattern, both very casual and highly formal. It’s a great canvas for a variety of fabric types and prints.

I’ll definitely use this pattern again. It’s ideal for when you want a quick sewing fix, or when you want to have a bit of fun playing with fabric combinations.

Over the years I have worked out my preferred skirt styles.  A quick glance in my wardrobe shows a predominance of straight skirts in stretch fabric.  There is the odd A-line skirt in there, a maxi or two, and a few straight skirts in woven fabrics, but you won’t find anything with a gathered waist or a great deal of fullness.  My thick middle/pot belly combination makes a straight stretch skirt the most comfortable one for me – remember, they always have that magic elastic in the waist!

I saw the Style Arc Halle Stretch Skirt as a great way to add a little variety to my straight stretch skirt wardrobe. Style Arc describe it as follows:  Fabulous slim line skirt with a cross over front; featuring an asymmetric hemline. A must have skirt in your wardrobe. The elastic waist makes it easy to make and wear. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Ponte, Knit.

I was fairly certain when looking at the pattern pieces that this skirt would probably be too long on me if I sewed it up without alteration – I’m 158cm tall.  I folded a chunk out of each pattern piece (maybe about four inches?) about half way between waist and hem, and straightened the diagonal edges to remove the resulting jog.  Then it was cut it out and sew it up!

(End of the day photos – hence the multiplicity of sitting wrinkles).

If you’re sewing this you need to pay attention to the instructions in regard to what to hem when. Much of the hemming is done before the side seams are sewn, and you do need to get that part right! It’s easy to sew (yes, mostly on the overlocker) and results in what I think is a nice variation on the basic straight stretch skirt. I sewed this one in ponte from Darn Cheap Fabrics – it matches the Nina cardigan I’ve blogged before.

Here’s a good example of getting proportion WRONG – this cardigan, despite being the same fabric, does NOT work with this skirt and top at all in my view. The jacket drapes and ends at the wrong places of the skirt hem and overlap and it all gets visually messy. I will definitely not be wearing this combination out the door ever again (my excuse is that I got dressed in the dark as per usual in winter and didn’t look in a full length mirror before I headed off to work).

I’ve also sewn this skirt in this olive bengaline from Style Arc, but haven’t worn or photographed that one on me yet. Bengaline is a magic fabric for me – it works so well to fit around my shape, especially in pants. And the comfort level is high.

So this pattern has had two outings already. Definitely a positive contribution to the straight stretch skirt stable.

When we were in Thailand/Laos in January I bought quite a few fabric souvenirs.  I really want to turn them all into garments (maybe some into cushions) but it does take sort thought for me to figure out what will work best for particular types of fabric.  The idea to turn a length of ikat into a vest came to me while lying awake in bed one night.  Do others plan their sewing projects when they are meant to be asleep?

I looked at the length of ikat and knew that it would have to be combined with another fabric to have enough for an effective garment – and denim would hopefully work well! I had some stretch denim scraps in my stash, and they were just the right shade of blue. I used the denim for the collar/front bands.

The pattern is New Look 6397. From their website: Misses’ cozy jacket with patch pockets can have a straight or handkerchief hemline. Vest can have a straight hem with patch pockets or a high-low without pockets.  Fabric suggestions: Lightweight to medium woven or knit fabrics with drape such as: Linen and wool types, double knits, fleece, interlock, jersey, ponte, stretch velvet.

You may have noticed that the fabric suggestions are mostly for knits, but I figured that the vest would be fine in my medium weight wovens.  I sewed view C without the pockets, possibly in the size Small (10-12), although it could have been the Medium (14-16) but I’m too lazy to pull the pattern envelope out and check.

The front bands are seamed at the centre back of the neckline and form the gentle shawl collar.  From memory the bands are rectangular pieces,cut double on the fold. The ikat frayed terribly, so I overlocked all the edges first then did the assembly with a straight stitch on my sewing machine. The bottom of the vest is a 5/8″ turned hem, just straight stitched into place, as are the armhole openings.

This was really easy to make, and highly satisfying. I took a bit of a punt sewing this vest, and I’m extremely happy with the finished result.

I sewed McCalls 7441 back in May when I was at Sewjourn.  One of the benefits of sewing garments when I’m away with a group of friends is to see how those garments look on people who are ostensibly of a similar size but are different heights and shapes.

I am 158cm tall, with a thick torso. Rachel is 175cm tall, with more of an hourglass shape.

The main attraction of this cardigan/jacket is the statement back.

And on Rachel:

The fabric is a soft, slightly marled acrylic knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics, and the colour is rather vibrant in natural light. It was incredibly easy to sew. There are only three main pattern pieces. I sewed the centre back seam (at the top of the back piece, where the cowl forms) the sleeve seams and the side seams on the sewing machine, but set in the sleeves with the overlocker. Using the machine meant that I had less bulk when it came to turning a hem around the edges of the jacket.

I turned the hem to the inside about a centimetre then zig-zagged it in place. The stitches really sink in to the fabric, and the edge of the zig zag is right on the edge of the seam allowance. It all worked nicely. The sleeve hems were turned about an inch before zig-zagging in place.

I sewed a fishing sinker as a weight to the inside of the cowl point to keep it draping nicely.  This is view C, the long version with tie front.  I suspect that I sewed size Medium, but it could have been the Small.  There is plenty of ease in this style.

From the McCalls website: Loose-fitting unlined jackets and vest have front opening variations, shaped narrow hems, and draped back. Wrong side of fabric will show. B: Hood and pockets.

I’m actually a little surprised that I haven’t seen this pattern sewn up more. It’s fast, it’s dramatic, and it’s fun. I might give one of the shorter versions a try!

Like all Hot Patterns patterns, this one actually has an even longer name than the one in the blog post title – it is the Hot Patterns Fast & Fabulous Milano Dolman T.

The Fast & Fabulous patterns are just that – relatively simple and straightforward, with less sewing time.  I downloaded the A4 version.  With Hot Patterns you butt the page edges together and tape rather than trimming them first.  They makes them fast to assemble, but because the printing doesn’t go all the way to the edges of the paper it introduces opportunity for error.

From the Hot Patterns website: Your search for the perfect dressy-T ends here, with these gorgeous dolman T’s. These elegant styles are perfect for lighter weight drape-y knits like rayon, silk, modal, or slubby linen jersey. Loose-fit, pull-on T’s have a classic boat neckline finished with a narrow self fabric or rib trim, plus front and back princess seams for a superior fit. Dolman sleeves are 3/4 length with a rib or self fabric cuff, or add a separate section for a pieced 3/4 length sleeve. Finish your T with a double-thickness hem band for a slouchy-waisted look, or keep it relaxed with a separate shirt-tail hem. These chic dolman T’s look great in solid colors and gorgeous in your favorite prints; try them with color or print blocking, or a little topstitching too. Depending on your fabric choices, your T’s will easily dress up or down for day or night; they work best worn with flat-waist skirts or pants.

As you can see, I chose to sew the version with the pieced sleeve and shirt-tail hem.  The sleeve definitely finished up much longer than 7/8 length on me.  The fabric is a printed fairly stable knit from the Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 table; it has been in stash for ages.  I thought it would be okay for a wearable muslin to gauge fit and sizing.

I paid attention when cutting out and have actually matched the stripes across almost all the seams! The front and back seams and the sleeve band and hem band sleeves have been highlighted with orange twin needle stitching, which is hard to see in these photos. Construction was on the overlocker, and hems were also finished with yellow contrasting twin needling on the machine.

I measure size 14 (or more) in Hot Patterns, and sewed this in size 10. As always, check the flat pattern measurements before deciding what size to cut! I think it’s actually a bit too roomy, especially across the shoulders (although I do like the belly room).

I don’t dislike the finished top, but I don’t love it either. I might sew it again with the neckline narrowed a little bit and the sleeve cuffs. This one has already moved into the wardrobe in the spare room – I have other tops that I like more and I know I will reach for in preference to this.

A quick perusal of my flickr photostream tells me that this is the fourth time I have sewed the Style Arc Amy top.

This is one of Style Arc’s older patterns. From their website: This knit top has a semi cowl neck and dropped side seams which can be left loose or tied to give it the new look. FABRIC SUGGESTION & DESCRIPTION: Any soft knit or jersey.

I sewed this one in a very soft ribbed acrylic/wool knit from Super Cheap Fabrics.  It is slightly clingy, but also very warm.

I didn’t bother to do the side slits. This is fast to sew, all done on the overlocker except for the hems, which I did with a simple zig-zag after turning the raw edge to the inside about 1.5cm.

The cowl neckline is not typical – it’s quite a deep U shape, with a slightly shaped rectangular cowl attached. I rather like it – which is probably obvious considering that I’ve sewn this pattern four times!  On this version I added folded back cuffs, mostly due to fabric restrictions.

Thanks everyone for your kind words about the green linen jacket that was the subject of my last blog post.  I’ll definitely post some pictures when I have worked out how I want to style it!