Day: 25 April 2017

adult's clothing, Cashmerette, sewing

Cashmerette Turner dress

One of the dresses I sewed especially to take on our Thailand/Laos trip was a Cashmerette Tuner dress.  Shoulder coverage, knee coverage, so good for temples, yet comfortable in a knit.  That was the plan.  The plan worked!

Cashmerette Turner dress in Spoonflower cotton spandex print by Three Branches Design

I have had a fair bit of success with the cut of Cashmerette patterns.  I’m not a typical shape.  I am very thick through the midsection, with a pregnant-looking belly, and a very short back waist length.  My ribs are almost on top of my hip bones!  In comparison, my shoulders are fairly average, my hips are comparatively small, and I have a relatively flat bum and average size boobs.  Really, it’s a shape that is quite common in menopausal women – except I’m not quite menopausal (fast approaching though) and have always been this shape.  My size has varied quite a lot, but not my shape.  It makes for some fitting challenges, as most patterns are designed for a more defined waist.  Now, one of the reasons that I sew is because I can make what I like, but it’s still tedious have to make loads of alterations.  However, I’ve found that the smallest Cashmerette size (the 12 C/D) works pretty well as a starting point for me.

Cashmerette Turner dress in Spoonflower cotton spandex print by Three Branches Design

I did remove waist shaping by cutting the pattern a size larger through the waist. Otherwise, this is exactly as per the pattern. From the Cashmerette website:  Elegance meets comfort with the Turner Dress! This everyday favorite features a softly flared skirt and a feminine lined v-neck bodice. There are three sleeve lengths – short, three-quarter and long – and whether you make it in cozy merino jersey or lightweight rayon jersey, this pattern will carry you through every season with style! 

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Now, there is nothing earth-shattering about this style in many ways.  There are heaps of patterns out there for knit dresses with a fitted bodice, sleeves, and a flared, circle or gathered skirt.  To me, the difference between this pattern and the rest of them is the drafting and the fit.  It’s for sizes 12 to 28, in three cup sizes (C/D, E/F, G/H), and from what I have seen around the internet, it WORKS.  I’ve seen some lovely versions in all sleeve lengths, sewn in fabrics from ultra casual to super formal.  Definitely a basic that is well appreciated by the size 12 and up dressmaker.

Cashmerette Turner dress in Spoonflower cotton spandex print by Three Branches Design

I always like a V neckline, and the bodice is lined. This provides a really lovely finish, and it’s easy to sew. It also reduces bra squish show-through, which I like too. The waistline is definitely raised a little. That is my preference, but keep it in mind if you’re sewing this dress and like your waistline right at your waistline.

Cashmerette Turner dress in Spoonflower cotton spandex print by Three Branches Design

Apparently there is a swayback alteration already drafted in to Cashmerette patterns, and I think that you can see that with the reduced amount of fabric pooling compared to many of my other garments. I really DO need to do a short back waist length alteration (done similarly to a sway back alteration) on all my garments! It clearly helps.

Cashmerette Turner dress in Spoonflower cotton spandex print by Three Branches Design

The skirt is nicely swishy. I had to cut the back piece with a centre back seam due to fabric restrictions. Speaking of fabric, isn’t this lovely? It’s cotton spandex jersey from Spoonflower. The print called Oriental Birds and is by Three Branches Design – who happens to be a friend of mine! The jury is still out a little for me regarding Spoonflower prints though. I’ve had three on their cotton spandex jersey base now. They’re comfortable to wear, and so far the colour retention has been pretty good too, but the print is definitely on the top – which you can see when you stretch the fabric – and the layers can sort of “stick” to one another if it is folded with the print touching print. I suspect that with Spoonflower you need to try different substrates to really see what you like best. There is no doubting that they have marvellous designs. I bought mine when they had a free international shipping offer, otherwise I find the cost prohibitive.

Cashmerette Turner dress in Spoonflower cotton spandex print by Three Branches Design

This dress really did work well for me when we were on holiday, yet in many ways it’s not quite “my” style. I definitely love the print, and the fit, but I’m not sure that the fitted bodice with fuller skirt silhouette is really me. Either way, this dress is staying in my wardrobe – and being worn!

children's clothing, kids clothing, sewing, tween

McCalls 7151 – the jumpsuit version

You might remember that I sewed McCalls 7151 in the dress version for Clare and it was an absolute fail.  However, not all was lost, because from that fail I worked out what adjustments the pattern needed to become a success.  Once I’d adjusted the front pattern pieces to raise the neckline, I sewed the jumpsuit version.  So much better!

McCalls 7151 in Spotlight rayon

This was still size 10. The raised front neckline worked a treat, and fitting was made that little bit easier because the front straps button on. You always need a way to get into and out of a jumpsuit!

McCalls 7151 in Spotlight rayon

I adore those buttons – I am pretty sure they came from Notionally Better in Thailand! The fabric is printed woven viscose from Spotlight a couple of years ago. This range was a lovely weight – everything I’ve sewn from it has worked out beautifully.

McCalls 7151 in Spotlight rayon

I think that the back is the nicest part. I really like the way that the straps join at the centre back. There is a bit of faffing around to get everything lined up and finished nicely, so you do need to take your time a bit in that area. Otherwise, it was easy to sew.

McCalls 7151 in Spotlight rayon

And the racer back crop top sits nicely underneath! As it turns out, even though Clare likes her jumpsuit, she hasn’t worn it much at all. She says that when it’s hot enough for sleeveless tops, she doesn’t want long pants. And you know what? I sort of understand that.

McCalls 7151 in Spotlight rayon

For me, when it’s hot enough for sleeveless tops, I only want to wear dresses! Nothing with a waistband. So I’m pruning back the number of sleeveless or tank style tops in my wardrobe, as I’ve discovered they get very little wear. We all reach for different things depending on the weather and on what we feel most comfortable in for that weather.

McCalls 7151 in Spotlight rayon

I do have a couple of patterns for more wintery jumpsuits in the stash for me – I wonder if I should give one of them a try? And as for this jumpsuit – I reckon that Clare will have grown out of it by the time that summer rolls back around again. It will transition to Stella’s (vast) wardrobe and we’ll see what happens there!