November 2016 – THORNBERRY

Style Arc Adeline dress

I liked this dress so much that I made two!

Style Arc describe this dress as follows: ADELINE DRESS: Great designer style dress which is easy to sew and wear. The slight cocoon shape and its roll up sleeve makes give this style a casual but trendy look. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Linen, Silk, Crepe.

(Picture currently not uploading!)

First off I sewed size 12 without alterations in a floral cotton that I’d picked up from the Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 table at some stage. It was straightforward to sew. I love the deep facings around the hemline and the neckline.

On the floral dress I chose to do the topstitching in bright green as a contrast. (Actually, I chose to do it because that was the thread colour already in the machine and I figured it would work).

I’m pleased with the way that this dress fits me at the back neck. There is a centre back seam, so it would be easy to tweak this to fit individual body shapes if you needed more or less curve.

The back facing curves downwards, which is nice stylistic touch. The sleeve hems are quite deep, which makes them turn back and sit well.

Lengthwise, this is a little longer than I prefer my hemlines. The hem has a definite curve up at the centre front and down at the centre back, which is why a hemline facing is an obvious choice. I am only 158cm tall, so that needs to be taken into account if you are sewing this dress.

There is a handy shorten/lengthen line printed on the pattern if you want to alter the length. I shortened it two inches the second time that I made it, and think it is a better length on me. This time around I sewed it in Merchant & Mills linen in a lovely smoky warm grey.

Now, grey is a bit too neutral for me, so I chose to use some teal topstitching along the pocket tops and to secure both the neckline and hem facings. I also used the selvedge to add a bit of interest along the top of the pockets. I now wish that I’d used selvedge down the centre back seam as well. Oh hindsight….

All the topstitching was done with a triple stitch. In addition to the teal topstitching, I used grey to topstitch along the centre back seam and shoulder seams. Just for that tiny bit more detail that no-one else will notice, but I will know is there!

This is a terrific style for those of us who prefer to avoid waist definition. I love both versions and know they will get loads of wear this summer!

Saturday, 26 November, 2016 by thornberry

children's clothing, kids clothing, sewing, tween

Style Arc Cara top – this time for the teen

When Clare saw my version of the Style Arc Cara top, she promptly declared that she wanted one too. I pondered, because she’s not really in adult size patterns yet. However, when I checked the Style Arc website I discovered that their patterns start at an Australian size 4. I figured that it was worth a go.

I managed to buy a copy of the downloadable pdf when Style Arc had a pdf sale on Etsy. I really didn’t feel like grading down my size 12 version! There aren’t many pattern pieces, so it didn’t take long to tape together the A4 pattern pieces. I don’t mind taping when there aren’t loads of pieces, and I was after immediate gratification. Downloadable pdf patterns are always great in that regard!

I cut this as a straight size 4 without alterations. I figured that the length would be quite adequate for Clare, especially since in many ways her proportions are like mine – she has long legs for her height and a proportionately shorter torso. The fabric is navy tencel from Clear It. That reminds me – I need to sew up the pair of pants that I have cut out from the same fabric!

I decided not to interface the front neckband, as the fabric is relatively substantial. This appeared to work out okay. I also made certain when I inserted the elastic into the back neckband piece that I could access it in case I needed to shorten it to fit Clare better. As it turned out, that was a good idea – once I was home from Sewjourn and she tried it on, I needed to shorten the back elastic by a number of inches for the top to stay up!

This is a very straightforward garment to sew. I mostly used the overlocker for construction. Hems were finished on the overlocker, then turned to the inside in a narrow hem and stitched on the machine. Easy peasy. Just watch out for them stretching out a little and rippling on sections that become bias (i.e. learn from my mistakes).

This top has already had quite a bit of wear. Definitely a wardrobe hit with the teen – and it’s good to jump right onto the off the shoulder/cold shoulder/split sleeve trend before it disappears!

Sunday, 20 November, 2016 by thornberry

adult's clothing, DCF Challenge, tessuti patterns

Simplicity 1318 – DCF Spring Challenge

I am rather excited. Firstly, because I finished my Spring DCF Challenge* garment with a ~~month and a half~~ few weeks to spare (it seems that when I wrote this post I forgot that Summer starts in December!). Secondly, because I sewed a top and a skirt to go with it – both from remnants. And thirdly, because I am SO happy with the finished outfit!

It took Emma and I a little while to choose our Spring Challenge fabric this time around. Photos and web page links went back and forth, but when this woven viscose appeared on the Darn Cheap Fabrics Instagram feed, we both quickly said yes! When I felt the fabric in person I was very pleased with our choice – it has a lovely handle with a slight slub throughout, and drapes beautifully. And the colours – all those colours!

Simplicity 1318 is a kimono-style jacket pattern that has been around for quite a while. There are loads of reviews on Pattern Review, and a quick google image search brought up lots of lovely examples. This is a case where reading the reviews before cutting was extra helpful – despite my measurements fitting in the size Medium for this pattern, I cut size Small and am pleased with the resulting amount of ease. I sewed view C, using one fabric as per the envelope cover photo.

simplicity-jackets-coats-pattern-1318-envelope-front

This is a very easy pattern to sew, as there is not a great deal of fitting adjustment to make. It’s worth considering how long you want the finished jacket to be – I was happy to go with the pattern length as drafted – as you would need to fold this out of the front, back and band pattern pieces before cutting.

Rather than hand-sewing down the sleeve bands or the neckband facing, I chose to topstitch in coordinating thread. The lazy way out, yet adding another nice detail. This was a relatively fast sew. The only thing that took a little time was attaching the neck and front bands and facings. The band is interfaced, and sits nice and close at the back neck. The shaping and the support of the interfacing means that the jacket sits nicely and doesn’t feel as though it is slipping around on my relatively sloped shoulders.

The fabric pressed and sewed beautifully, and has just the right amount of drape. It doesn’t billow and float too much, but swishes instead.

While I was at Darn Cheap I spotted a couple of remnants in the remnant bin. I always find it hard to resist a remnant – both from a cost and a challenge perspective. And the two remnants that I picked up coordinated perfectly with the challenge fabric! So much so that even Helen who was helping me exert no-unnecessary-fabric-buying-willpower permitted me to buy them.

The skirt pattern is the Colette Mabel skirt. This is the longer version of the pattern with side front panels and a kick pleat sewn into the centre back seam. This is such a straightforward, fast sew. The fabric is a very soft and stretchy yet substantial double-knit, very like a ponte yet feeling much nicer. I used every scrap.

I did topstitch down the side front panel and the centre back seams, but you really can’t see that stitching in these photos. And I simply fused the hem with one inch wide Vliesofix tape.

The top is the Tessuti Kate top. This is the third time I’ve sewn it. This is view A, but I bound the armholes and neckline with wide self-made bias, rather than turning the bias to the inside like a facing as per the instructions. This kept the armholes and neckline the same size as originally cut out. The last time that I sewed view A I felt that the armholes were a little too deep and the neckline a little too scooped. This time they were perfect.

I sewed the size Large, and think that the fit is pretty spot on for me. Someone taller might want to consider lengthening this pattern a little, depending on where you want the top hemline to finish. I really like those mitred facing edges and the side splits.

I applied the binding to the wrong side of the fabric first, then folding it over the seam allowances to the right side and topstitching close to the edge. This gives a nice even row of stitching and ensures that the binding is all attached nicely. I don’t like doing it the other way around then stitching in the ditch. Either the stitches wander a little on the right side, or part of the binding doesn’t get caught and stitched down on the wrong side. When I want to sew the binding to the right side first I have already made the decision that I will hand-sew it down on the inside.

The top fabric is viscose crepe, in that colour that I see as rich purple but others will see as cobalt blue. There is the teensiest hole in the front near the neckline, but I hope that it isn’t obvious to others. The perils of bargain remnants. I think I pulled the bias binding a fraction tight at the upper back neck, as in these photos there appears to be some teensy wrinkles. Otherwise, I think this top is a great fit.

When I put this outfit on I had one of those YES! moments. It was comfortable, everything fitted, and I felt great. And fortunately, I had the perfect shoes to go with it (thanks again eBay Django & Juliette sample size seller).

Fortunately I still have some of the fabric left over; not enough for a dress but possibly for a top. I’ll go pattern stash diving. I’ll definitely be using this jacket pattern again as well. It’s a perfect topper for in between weather and for when you need an extra light layer.

So, I wonder what Emma sewed? Actually, I think that I already know! I’m going to run over to her blog and take a look.

* Emma and I started the DCF Seasonal Challenge a year or two ago – we buy a couple of metres of the same fabric from Darn Cheap Fabrics each season, and each make a garment. We then reveal it on our blogs on the same day. It’s just a fun thing that we started when we realised how often we buy and sew the same fabrics (often from Darn Cheap).

Thursday, 17 November, 2016 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing

Style Arc Maris – yes, it’s number three

There’s really not a great deal to say when you get to the third version of a garment. This is the Style Arc Maris top. From their website: MARIS TOP: This top has an interesting front hem panel that continues to the back giving a fabulous silhouette.
Use your own creative flare, mixing fabrics or colours for your own individual look. We made our sample in Linen but would also work in a knit as well.

maris-top

Actually, I can comment on something regarding this version. My first was all sewn in woven fabric. The second was sewn all in knit. This time I used a woven for the yoke and bottom panel, and a knit for the body. The woven is the silk scraps left over from my Vogue 1482 dress, and the body was also from scraps, this time a golden mustard viscose. I had to piece the back upper sleeve areas, which are hidden after hemming the sleeve openings.

The yoke is self lined. I cut it twice, sewed around the front neckline right sides together, then attached it to the shoulder seams burrito style, encasing the viscose in between the yoke outer and yoke lining when stitching. I had already finished the back neckline with a strip of viscose, like a facing. This left me with nicely enclosed seam allowances and a clean finish around the neckline. I wish I’d thought to take photographs! The rest of the construction was fairly standard.

Three versions of this top in one year is probably enough!

Monday, 14 November, 2016 by thornberry

adult's clothing, Bootstrap Fashion, sewing, Uncategorized

A three-fer: Riley, Henrietta Maria and Vado.

This will be an epic blog post. Three garments. I am exhausted just thinking about writing it, let alone thinking about you reading it. Be warned!

Okay, I’ll start with the coat. This is the Style Arc Riley Coat. From their website: RILEY COAT: This cleverly designed and patterned coat fits all the boxes. Suitable for every season, Riley has a very “on-trend” shape with its deep panelled raglan sleeve and free flowing front. This coat is unlined and so easy to construct. FABRIC SUGGESTION & DESCRIPTION: Wool, Wool Cashmere, any Suiting, Linen or Ponte

riley-coat

I chose to use a wool blend coating fabric from Clear It to sew my jacket. I didn’t purchase quite enough, but by judiciously piecing the facings I was able to cut out the entire jacket from my fabric. The fabric restrictions did limit the amount of check matching that I was able to do. I focused on keeping the checks balanced more than matched.

I eliminated the centre back seam in an effort to save fabric, but otherwise this is sewn pretty much as per the pattern. I did add topstitching beside certain seemliness, as the mood took me. The description is correct – it is easy to construct.

There is no closure on my coat. It can be worn with the collar folded across and pinned in place, but I’m not likely to wear it that way. I sewed size 12, which is my usual Style Arc top/dress/jacket size, but could have gone down to a 10 in this jacket.

I really enjoyed working with this coating fabric. It has great texture, was easy to sew and press, and the hand-stitches securing the facings are invisible. Hooray!

If you have long arms, you might want to consider lengthening the sleeves. It wouldn’t be too difficult to draft a lining either, if you prefer one. There are inseam pockets in the front seams, and I really like the angles at the centre front hemline. I am not certain that lapels at the front like this, with nothing at the back neck, is the best look for me. To me it looks very “front-heavy” which I am anyway. I think I prefer a jacket with no collar at all or one that has a roll collar at the back. Will ponder on that further. But I do recommend this pattern.

So, to the top. This is the Henrietta Maria top by Scroop Patterns.

I have been reading the designer Leimomi’s blog for some time, and have always been impressed with her sewing knowledge and the thought that she puts into garments. She is a trained pattern maker and is a fashion and textile historian. This is her first pattern, and I was very impressed with both the quality of the drafting and the quality of the instructions.

I sewed this in a wool crepe remnant from Rathdowne Fabrics. It was a great choice for this top. Wool crepe is such a divine fabric to work with! It presses beautifully, and has wonderful drape. Now check out all those cartridge pleats. Just sewing the pleats took around two hours. Crikey.

I finished the inside edge of the neckline self-facing with lace, and the lower hemline with a narrow double-turned machine stitched hem. This is actually quite simple to sew, you just have to be patient because of ALL THOSE PLEATS. Have I mentioned that there are a lot of pleats?

The website describes this pattern as follows: The Henrietta Maria is a versatile, wear-anywhere trans-seasonal shift dress or top, with full raglan sleeves and cunning pleats that shape the neckline and sleeve hems. The top can be made with a straight or shaped hemline. The dress has set-in side pockets.

Dress it up for evening in chiffon and satin, make it as your go-to summer wear in cottons or viscose (rayon), or effortless winter office wear in wool crepe. Worn loose, the top and dress are great on straight figures. Belted or tucked in, they flatter the most bodacious of curves.

Recommended Fabrics:
The Henrietta Maria works best in fabrics with good draping qualities, such as lightweight wool crepes; viscose crepes; silk & synthetic crepe de chine; lightweight draping cottons such as cotton voile; and wool, viscose & cotton challis. Silk or synthetic charmeuse satins, chiffons and georgettes also work well, but are trickier to work with.

henrietta_maria_hero_image_1024x1024_a4d49077-65bf-43a9-8ab0-68a36e755ea4_1024x1024

I sewed view B, with the curved hemline. I think that I sewed size 40, as per my measurements (it is about three haircuts ago since I sewed and photographed this, so my recollection of some details is a little hazy). I’d rather like to sew the dress version for summer in a cool drapey fabric – but ALL THOSE PLEATS. I might need to sew some other summer garments first. This is a great pattern – highly recommended if you are looking for something a little out of the ordinary.

So, now to the jeans. These are the next step along my quest for non-stretch denim jeans that fit my decidedly non-standard shape. I used the Bootstrap Fashion Vado Designs boyfriend jeans. The rigid denim is from M. Recht. From the Bootstrap website: The best-fitting jeans custom-sized sewing patterns are here. These ‘boyfriend’ style jeans have plenty of design ease around thighs and hips and require minimum measurements.They are extra long and designed to be worn rolled up. Ease: 4 3/8″ (11 cm) at hips and thigh.

These are the jeans on the right in the picture above. I’ve sewn the flared version in the centre photo before, and you can read that review here. So, the jeans on me.

So, right to it. I don’t love the way that these look on me from the side or the back at all. So much fabric around the upper thigh! Yes, the pattern description does say that there is plenty of ease there, and on a more typical shape it probably works well. But my legs are so thin in comparison to my torso that it’s hard to eliminate that excess while still having the non-stretch denim fit the rest of me and me still being able to move.

I do need to emphasise however that the fit is actually GREAT from the perspective of the waist and tummy and hips fitting me – that normally NEVER happens – and the length, which is spot on. These are also incredibly comfortable for a non-stretch pair of jeans! I do need the belt to keep them in the most comfortable position, despite me being very accurate with my measurements, but that is because without that extra bit of cinching (and consequent muffin-top) all my pants fall down. It’s why I usually go for an elastic waist. With a waist-hip differential that is so small – plus most of the measurement being on my front – most skirts or pants fall down on me.

I was very happy with the construction of these jeans. Bootstrap Patterns have lots of detail and photos in their instructions now, and everything went together nicely. I also got some rivets for the back pockets, and in combination with the red topstitching am very happy with the final look of these jeans. I did place the pockets much closer to the centre than the pattern suggested, based on some of my existing pairs of jeans.

Pockets were sewn from quilting cotton. I chose not to flat-fell any of the seams, as I feel that I get a similar effect with the seams overlocked then topstitched. I know it’s not as “authentic” a jeans technique, but I’m just as happy with the finished result.

I often wonder why I put so much effort into waistband and upper pants details that will never been seen other than on this blog. I never, ever tuck anything in.

So, my final verdict? I think that Bootstrap Fashion (and Lekala) patterns are GREAT. I love the made-to-measure aspect and the price, and the ability to customise things like tummy and buttock protrusion. If you haven’t tried them, I really do think that you should! It does require ACCURATE measurements, and lots of them, and tweaking to find out what the fit adjustments really do. But once you’ve got it sorted, it’s wonderful – especially if you are not a “standard” shape.

As for me and my non-stretch jeans quest? Basically, it’s over. My shape really is best in elastic waists and stretch denim. These jeans aren’t likely to get much wear at all. In the future I’ll keep sewing my tried and true Style Arc jeans from stretch fabrics. But don’t let that put you off giving Vado jeans a go – I honestly do think that they work beautifully for lots of people, and have seen quite a few of them on blogs that look fabulous. There is no questioning the fit.

Tuesday, 1 November, 2016 by thornberry

Month: November 2016

Style Arc Adeline dress

Style Arc Cara top – this time for the teen

Simplicity 1318 – DCF Spring Challenge

Style Arc Maris – yes, it’s number three

A three-fer: Riley, Henrietta Maria and Vado.