October 2016 – THORNBERRY

kids clothing, sewing, tween

Modkid Cassidy Dungaree Dress

Sewing for my girls is getting harder. Finding the right match between style, fabric, sizing and pattern – especially for the teen. Clare is almost 14, but much smaller than most of her peers. I was the same at her age, and it seems that my genes are strong in this one! She has a strong sense of her own style, which is much more colourful and individual than many of her friends, yet she wants to dress in ways that make her seem like a typical teenager rather than a kid. I completely understand that!

The Modkid Cassidy Dungaree Dress pattern goes up to a girls size 12, which is what I used for Clare. Their website describes it as follows: Cassidy is a playful dungaree style dress that can be layered over long-sleeve tees and leggings in the cooler months but also worn by itself or with a tank top underneath for the warmer months. This pattern will be a favorite for back-to-school and Holiday sewing. SUGGESTED FABRICS: Bottom-weight fabrics like denim, corduroy, twill or canvas, 54″-60″ wide.

I used a remnant of printed corduroy from The Cloth Shop for Clare’s pinafore. (I just can’t bring myself to use the word “dungaree” – that’s just not a term Australians use). There was a small tear in the fabric, which I forgot about when I was cutting it out. Fortunately the back and front skirt pieces are the same as one another, so I made sure that I placed the tear at the back of the skirt. I repaired it with some fusible interfacing underneath and zig-zagged it to secure, then placed another pocket flap over it to hide it. I think it worked well!

I used quilting cotton to line the bodice and the straps. The most difficult part of making this was finding decent hardware. I bought buckles and hammer on buttons from Spotlight, but have to say that the quality was abysmal. The buttons bent as soon as they were hammered on – and I wasn’t overdoing things, I’ve done this before – and I ended up going through twice as many as needed to have some that worked. The buckles also feel flimsy. I will buy this sort of hardware elsewhere in the future – I was extremely unimpressed with these.

Otherwise, this was a fairly simple garment to make. There are lots of topstitching opportunities, and I always enjoy a lined bodice. I don’t think that the fit at centre back where the straps join is as good as it should be. They needed to be angled more, and I notice that other examples of this dress have the same issue. Note for next time!

The front pockets are also fully lined with the same quilting cotton as the bodice. It’s always good to have somewhere to put your hanky. The flaps on the bodice and back skirt are just that – there are no functional pockets there.

This should still fit next winter as well, with any luck – it’s a style that is rather adjustable and forgiving.

Saturday, 29 October, 2016 by thornberry

children's clothing, kids clothing, sewing

Book week 2016

It was book week a couple of months ago (yes, I am very behind with blogging so everything that appears here was sewn months ago now). Stella decided that she wanted to go as Billie B Brown.

The school was focusing on Australian authors, and as it happens Sally Rippin is not only Australian, but local to us! I liked that element of Stella’s choice. Most of the “costume” was easily found in her wardrobe, but Stella really wanted a pinafore like the one on the book cover. Enter Lekala 7198.

This is a pattern designed for wovens, and I was using a knit from stash, so I eliminated the side zipper. I also left out the back belt and the front pockets. The pattern was folded down at the strap level to create a straight edge, and I traced off a facing to match. The straps were made from wide bias binding and were inserted between the dress and facing.

Buttons were added at the centre front for decoration. Stella enjoyed having input to every element of the design process, referring back to the book cover as we went along.

Of course, this was all done the night before it was needed. Some things never change. And the finished costume?

Yes, she was pleased!

Saturday, 29 October, 2016 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing

Negroni shirt

My husband really does get the sewing crumbs from me. Every now and then I sew him a t-shirt, but if I am honest about the proportions of sewing time spent on me and the girls as compared to him, the amount of sewing I do for him is miniscule. But every now and then I pull a rabbit out of the hat.

This is the Colette Negroni shirt in Liberty cotton from Shaukat. It is such beautifully silky fabric to sew and to wear. I’ve sewn him the Negroni shirt twice before – a short-sleeved version here, and a long-sleeved version here. This one is also a size Medium but with the sleeves shortened considerably by taking a large fold partway down the pattern piece. I
left off the collar button loop.

There is a pocket on that left shirt front – can you see it? I used one of the alternative pockets that are provided via the Colette blog here. It’s the divet version. You can just make it out if you look carefully. I didn’t make any effort to match the print, but the very nature of it means that it is fairly well camouflaged.

As you can see in these photos, he really does NOT like modelling for blog photos – but knows that that is the price you pay if you want me to sew for you! The girls did give him a hard time about not knowing what to do with his arms. Maybe we need to find him some posing pointers!

The back yoke is done burrito-style, and those two small back pleats allow for a little more movement. I like the curved hemline as well. As it happens, I have another couple of lengths of Liberty in stash that are earmarked for more shirts. Maybe one for Christmas?

Saturday, 22 October, 2016 by thornberry

bags, Pattern Fantastique

Genoa Totes

Sometimes it is extremely satisfying to sew a pattern that doesn’t require fitting. For me, that means a bag. Or two. Or three. Maybe even four.

Most of my readers know that I am friends with Anna, who has designed the Genoa Tote in conjunction with Nita-Jane of Pattern Fantastique. So take that into account when you read the rest of this blog post – I might have unconscious bias. But I don’t think that I do – it’s a terrific tote pattern and I think that the results speak for themselves. But boy, bags are difficult to photograph well!

Yes, there are a million free patterns and tutorials for tote bags out there on the internet. But I think that there are a few points of difference that make the Genoa Tote pattern worth the money (I will point out here that I didn’t pay for my copy of the pattern as I helped with final testing). This pattern comes in three sizes, all nicely proportioned. I’ve made the Medium and the Large (the orange bag). The facing at the top of the bag gives structure, the lining is nicely attached to the main bag, and there is a nicely constructed inner pocket and key leash. And of course, those leather handles. They’re great.

I used denim for the outer of all my bags. The most difficult part is sourcing the requirements for the handles. I got my leather directly from Anna – she will be selling some kits – but you can get it from places like NSW Leather Company. Or you can do as I did with one of my bags and cut up some old belts! I bought rivets and punches and other bits and pieces online from Adelaide Leather Co (their service was great) and now I have enough to sew Genoa totes for the rest of my life. My rubber mallet came from Bunnings and the bread board from the supermarket.

It’s lots of fun putting together fabric combinations for this bag. Anna’s instructions are excellent (she has an extensive teaching/training/writing background) and combined with Nita-Jane’s drafting you are assured of a great result. I’ve already given one bag to a friend for her 50th and can tell that this will be a go-to pattern for gifts.

The pattern description from the website is as follows: Designed with denim in mind, the Genoa Tote borrows it’s name from the Italian city, where the first denim trousers were made. The Genoa Tote is fully-lined, features a zipped pouch and a clip for keys. The leather straps can be made in two lengths and two widths, and are attached with double capped rivets, creating beauty, strength and longevity.

I’ve already seen loads of these pop up on Instagram. It’s a basic, but a basic that has all those elements that in my opinion elevate it above the ordinary. Nicely done, Anna and Nita-Jane!

Friday, 14 October, 2016Saturday, 11 February, 2023 by thornberry

sewing

Style Arc Cara Top

Wow, that was an unintended blog break! Work has become absolutely insane over the past few weeks and I am working much more than usual. Just haven’t had the energy to blog.

But I do want to say thanks to everyone who has left me comments lately, particularly on my “musings” post a couple back. I have been musing further on your responses and love that you make me think. There will be more discussion on this ahead, I’m sure!

But in the meantime, I’ll show you my Style Arc Cara top.

Tops and dresses with shoulder/arm interest are everywhere at the moment. Cut out shoulders, off the shoulder, open sleeves – all those things that show off some shoulder and/or arm. So I thought I’d give it a whirl – why not! Aren’t clothes meant to be fun?

This was really a muslin. I wasn’t expecting to actually LIKE it on me. But I do! The fabric is a rayon woven from Darn Cheap Fabrics – the scraps left over from another project. Just my colours! The next dilemma was how to style this top. I sewed size 12, and it’s a rather cropped length, especially considering that I am only 158cm tall and am short waisted. But I think that it needs to be on the short side in order to balance out the volume.

I rather like it with my Style Arc Ethel linen trousers. I think that it needs high waisted pants or skirts if you are planning to avoid showing your midriff. I am always planning to avoid showing my midriff! It passed the teen test – as soon as she saw it on me Clare said that she wanted a version of my outfit in her size! Now that’s a compliment!

I probably need to pull the elastic in the back of this top a little tighter – the flat front band isn’t sitting flat against my body. However, it’s very comfortable to wear. The only downside is that it requires a strapless bra (or going without – not an option I feel comfortable with) and they are never my favourite things.

From the Style Arc website: CARA TOP: This on-trend top gives a gorgeous look with its flattering, gathered, off the shoulder neckline with a floaty raglan sleeve. The elastic at the back neck band keeps the shoulder line in shape. Wear it with jeans or dress it up with a fabulous print to wear to a special occasion. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Silk, Crepe, Cotton, Broderie Anglaise.

cara-top

Now Mum, I know that strapless/off the shoulder has never been your scene. However, I rather like it, and I’m really glad that I gave it a go. In fact, I now have plans to sew the Hot Patterns Urban Gypsy Blouse and the Style Arc Marilyn dress pattern is in the mail to me as I type. I’ve just sewn Clare a Cold Shoulder top, and am considering one for myself. And yes, I’ve also got a Cara top cut out in teensy size for Clare….

I’m jumping on this trend before it vanishes! Embrace those shoulders everyone! But make sure that you have plenty of sunscreen.

Wednesday, 5 October, 2016 by thornberry

Month: October 2016

Modkid Cassidy Dungaree Dress

Book week 2016

Negroni shirt

Genoa Totes

Style Arc Cara Top