Day: 30 July 2016

adult's clothing, sewing

Style Arc Sunny (yet again)

Another Style Arc Sunny top – I think that this is my third.

Style Arc Sunny top in knit remnant from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I don’t think that I got the most “flattering” lot of photos of this one! Anyway, it’s another remnant top. The chain jacquard knit used for the front and upper back was in the remnant bin at Darn Cheap Fabrics, and the navy is a soft double-knit that was in stash – it’s the same knit I used for the sleeves of Clare’s Groove top in the last blog post.

Style Arc Sunny top in knit remnant from Darn Cheap Fabrics

The secret of success with this pattern is that you MUST use fabric with loads of stretch for the sleeves. They are very narrow, to balance out the cocoon shape of the body of the top, and if the fabric isn’t stretchy enough they will not be at all comfortable. Fortunately this double knit worked out fine – maybe it’s more of a rib? – but many wouldn’t.

Style Arc Sunny top in knit remnant from Darn Cheap Fabrics

From the Style Arc website: SUNNY KNIT TOP: This is a new shape for a knit top.  The oversized look becomes very flattering because of pattern drafting and the cocoon shape which is the new on trend look.  Try it, you will love it!! FABRIC SUGGESTION: Slinky knit, any drapery knit.

sunny-top

My previous versions were both sewn in very stretchy and drapey fabric, and I really do recommend it.  I wear both heaps.  A viscose knit would be perfect as well.  I have already been getting quite a lot of wear out of this new version too.  It definitely won’t be the last time I sew this pattern.

Style Arc Sunny top in knit remnant from Darn Cheap Fabrics

children's clothing, kids clothing, sewing, tween

Groove dress as top

I don’t know why, but I don’t often think to do the obvious.  For example, shorten a dress into a top – or conversely, to lengthen a top into a dress.  I have no idea why it doesn’t occur to me more often.  Fortunately, a month or so ago it did.  Clare has been asking for some more tops that are casual but not too casual (yes, she’s a 13 year old) that would look good with higher waisted jeans or skirts.

Made It Patterns Groove dress shortened to a high-low top

This is the Madeit Patterns Groove Dress for teens, shortened to a top.  We kept the high-low hemline, and just measured on Clare where we wanted the top to finish at the front.  The body of the top is scuba from Spotlight, so it has loads of body and retains the flare of the pattern despite the shorter length.  The neck binding and sleeves are in a much softer and stretchier double knit that was somewhere in my stash.

Made It Patterns Groove dress shortened to a high-low top

You can see the curve of the hemline well when I make her twirl!

Made It Patterns Groove dress shortened to a high-low top

I sewed the smallest of the teen sizes. This pattern actually comes in adult and child sizes as well, and the teen pattern was free if you bought the adult or child sizes. So expect to see a Lara-sized Groove dress at some stage too. There are a number of style options included. From their website: The Groove Dress is an utterly covetable, swing dress made using knit fabric, with short or long sleeves and a high low or straight hemline. And as if that wasn’t enough, we went crazy to offer you five, yes five different neck options. Round, scoop, slash, cowl or hooded, whatever takes your fancy. The combinations are endless (well nearly, you do the maths).

Made It Patterns Groove dress shortened to a high-low top

The neckline is bound rather than banded. I sewed a strip of fabric to the right side with a 1cm seam allowance, flipped it over the seam allowance to the wrong side, completely enclosing the seam allowance, then topstitched it a couple of mm inside the seamline to secure. Most other construction was on the overlocker, with the a machine zig-zag used to secure hems.

Made It Patterns Groove dress shortened to a high-low top

Clare’s new high-waisted jeans came from Dejour Jeans in Brunswick. They make all their jeans here in Melbourne and customisation to fit you is included in the price, while you wait (or while you go and have coffee at a nearby cafe). We were thrilled to be able to buy jeans with hip and bum shaping in a small enough size to fit Clare – they took the waist in a little, altered the front rise, shortened the jeans, and narrowed the lower leg. She is rapt, and we’ll definitely be buying jeans there in the future! I love the concept that they automatically alter their jeans to fit the person, rather than the person being expected to just fit into the jeans. And they have all the equipment set up – it was great to watch the alterations people zooming through all the garment changes.  Word has got around about Dejour Jeans in recent years and they are often super busy with queues of people and sometimes shop closures due to crowds!  Apparently Tuesdays and Wednesdays are the quietest days.  Allow plenty of time if you are visiting.

Made It Patterns Groove dress shortened to a high-low top

adult's clothing, sewing

Butterick 5528 vest

It all started when I came across this image on Instagram.

Butterick 5528 vest in perforated suede look knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

All of a sudden I wanted a suede vest. I NEEDED a suede vest. And no, I wasn’t going to just click through and buy it – I was going to make my own! I scoured my stash for pattern possibilities, and came up with Butterick 5528.

b5528_a

This pattern is out of print now, but still available on their website and probably elsewhere if you look around a little.  The line drawing is as follows:

b5528

I’ve sewn view A in the past, unsuccessfully.  However that was due to a bad fabric/pattern match.  It’s long since left my wardrobe.  I thought that view C might work nicely for the vest.  The pattern description from the Butterick website is as follows: Close-fitting, straight cardigans A, B have short kimono sleeves with sleeve band, collar, hook and eye closure with decorative buttons and stitched hems. A: Hip-length. B: Pockets, tunic-length. Very loose-fitting, slightly flared cardigans C, D have raglan sleeves in two lengths, shawl collar and shaped stitched hems, wrong side of fabric will show. C: Sleeveless. D: Long sleeve. Close-fitting, straight tunic E has cap sleeves, stitched hem and neck ring.

Butterick 5528 vest in perforated suede look knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

There was no way that I was going to make a first version of this vest in real sueded! I found this perforated suede-look knit at Darn Cheap Fabrics. It is super soft, a little stretchy, and sticks to itself a little.

Butterick 5528 vest in perforated suede look knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I think that I sewed the Medium, which translates to 12-14. It really does not work styled over this dress, as in the above two photos. It looks much better over a straighter silhouette, such as this one:

Butterick 5528 vest in perforated suede look knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

In that photo it’s over a wool/acrylic blend knit Sewaholic Renfrew tee and printed double-knit Style Arc Fay skirt that were both sewn at Sewjourn in May and I don’t think have made it to the blog. A much better combination. However, Ada has a much firmer figure than I do, and I think it’s good to see garments as they are on the real body.

Butterick 5528 vest in perforated suede look knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I did all the sewing on the machine. Because of the fabric’s tendency to stick to itself, some of it was pretty fiddly. I finished hems with a simple zig-zag stitch, although I used a straight stitch around the armholes. Getting the collar to drape nicely isn’t easy in this fabric due to the stick to itself tendency.

Butterick 5528 vest in perforated suede look knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I do think it’s quite a wearable muslin – although I haven’t worn it yet! I think that once the weather warms up a little it is likely to get more outings. I wore the collar folded back flat when I tried it on myself, rather than draping like it is on Ada. I suppose that it can be worn either way.

Butterick 5528 vest in perforated suede look knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I have a few other vest patterns in stash – or jacket patterns that could easily have their sleeves left off to become a vest – but rather like the style lines of this one. I think that there will eventually be a trip to somewhere like NSW Leather in Collingwood to source some suede – but maybe not until next winter.