This is actually the second time that I have sewn the Named Inari Tee dress – but the first one hasn’t made it to the blog yet.

So, there is a little story behind this dress. When I was at Sewjourn in May my friend Kathryn sewed up a ponte version of the Inari dress in black and white stripes. Despite having different shapes, we usually sew the same size. This meant that I could try hers on and see how it looked on me in ponte. Then I spotted a massive pile of stash enhancing fabric that we had brought along with us to share out – and there it was, black and white stripes in ponte. So I copied.

I that I sewed this in size 40 – it could have been the 42 – and didn’t make any alterations. It is such a fast dress to assemble, although I made life slightly more complicated by choosing a striped fabric. Lots of pins helped with stripe matching.

I really like the way that the side seams curve around to the front, with the resulting slits at those seams. The high low hemline works for me too. Remember that I am only 158cm tall – I think that this dress could show a lot of leg on a taller person, especially when they sit down!

Copying Kathryn, I cut the sleeve bands with the stripe running across, and left the bands turned down rather than folded back as cuffs. The neckline is finished with a facing that I topstitched in place.

This is what Named say about the pattern:

• The pattern includes two variations: A loose-fitting tee dress and a cropped A-line tee
• Short sleeves with a rolled-up effect
• The dress is slightly cocoon-shaped, with an uneven hemline
• Slits at the sides of the dress
• Finish the neckline with a facing or a separate neckband
• Choose a light to medium weight fabric, non-stretch or with slight stretch. If you make the neckline with the neckband, choose a stretch material, such as firm jersey or a rib-knit, for the band piece. The samples are made of cloque.

I intended to use this as a trans-seasonal piece layered with boots/tights and other tops either under or over it. I feel that it works quite well in this role. A very satisfying fast sew – I can see why it has been such a popular pattern in the sewing internet world.

Over the past few years my clothing aesthetic has shifted.  Part of that is the move into middle age, shifts in body shape, and just the effects of time and change in what I see in the world around me.  I clearly remember flicking straight past the “art” patterns in the pattern books, skipping over patterns designed by people like Marcy or Katharine Tilton.  Nowadays I get excited to see their new releases.  Yes, things change!

Both the Tilton sisters are known for a style often referred to as “art-teacher chic”. To me, it’s a style that doesn’t follow the body contours closely. Interesting shapes and details, often asymmetric, often layered, with mixtures of colour, fabric types and print. Yes, they’re often worn by middle-aged women – well, I fit into that category so am very happy to embrace these styles!

I’ll start with the skirt.  It’s rather an unusual shape.  The pattern is Vogue 9060.

Now, there’s no denying that the shape is unusual.  I think it’s pretty much a “lantern” shape.  I used stretch bengaline from stash (originally from the Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 table) that is actually a fine black and grey stripe).  It had the body needed for this skirt to keep its distinctive shape.

The seams were sewn on the overlocker then topstitched, which also helped to retain the shaping and keep the curves from sagging. I used the same stretch bengaline for the waistband, cutting the narrower of the two waistband options. It’s a simple yoga-style rectangular waistband that attaches to the top of the skirt so it can just pull on.

I possibly sewed size Medium, the 12-14. I didn’t make any alterations to the length – the pattern pieces are unusually shaped – but this fits fine on me. So, on to the top.  It’s Vogue 9057, a pattern that I have used a couple of times now and will continue to use. It’s also the pattern that comes with their Craftsy class The Artful T-shirt.

I sewed view D in size Medium, the 12-14 as well, but had already folded length out of the pattern the last time I made it, so it was adjusted for my short waist length. I swapped the View D 3/4 length sleeves for the view A/B full length ones – all the pattern pieces are interchangeable.  The body of the top was sewn in a wool blend knit from stash. It’s a fairly light knit, and would be semi-sheer if held to the light. The colour is actually a blend of dark brown and black. I paired it with stretch mesh in black with brown dots for the sleeves and the neckband. I’m not quite sure but I think it was from the Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 table as well.

Construction was on the overlocker, with the machine used for hemming and securing the neckband. I really like this pattern – it’s definitely made it into TNT status.

Lastly, the vest. It’s not a Tilton pattern – it’s the Style Arc Lizzie Wrap.  And this is one of those situations where the finished garment did not look like the pattern illustration.

From the Style Arc website: This fabulous up to the moment wrap will be a great addition to your wardrobe, wear it over your favourite top studded to create a sophisticated funnel neck or let it cascade into a flattering front drape. Features two welted pockets, use a large stud to make a fashion statement.  FABRIC SUGGESTION & DESCRIPTION: Ponte, Wool Melton, any fabric with some drape for the body but stable enough for the funnel neck to stand when studded.

I used a softish woven remnant from Rathdowne Fabrics, a combination of brown with a bit of black through it. There was no way that it would stud to create a neckline like the picture. And even with the front open, it draped quite differently. I really had to fiddle around with it quite a lot when I put it on.  I made sure that I finished the edges of the facings very neatly by turning them to the inside and pressing because they were exposed in wearing as the fronts of the vest draped and folded. Topstitching them down secured the small pressed hem and gave a nice detail on the outside. I finished the armholes with bias strips cut from linen and used like a facing then stitched on the wrong side.

I’m really not sure where things went wrong with this vest. I did have to squeeze the pattern pieces onto the fabric, so there may have been operator error with layout issues. Also, I left off the welt pockets. The instructions left me scratching my head, and I have contacted Style Arc about them. They are going to put a tutorial on their website for this particular style of welt pocket (it has curved pocket bags on the inside and a large single welt on the outside).

I’m happy enough with the finished vest but it is not what I was expecting or hoping to make. It will be worn, but I might choose other vest patterns over this one in future. However, the combined outfit is a winner in my books.

This is one of those patterns that I sew each year.  I think that I have sewn about five of these now.

This time I decided to sew it in a more transitional fabric that could be layered under or over for the cold. Generally I sew this as a summer dress in light to mid weight stretch fabrics. When I stumbled across this crochet printed double knit (pretty much a soft light-weight ponte) at The Cloth Shop recently I absolutely couldn’t resist it.

With a fabric as boldly patterned as this one you really need a simple shape. The You Sew Girl Draped T-Dress is highly reminiscent of lots of those patterns you see in Japanese sewing pattern books, but in my opinion there is that little bit of extra drafting in this pattern that means the neckline stays where is should and the cut on sleeves also maintain their position on the body.

All construction was on the overlocker. I added a neckband to bring in the neckline a fraction and make it more appropriate for colder weather. You can use whatever neckline finish you prefer on this dress – I think I’ve done turn and stitch, binding or neckbands in the past, cutting neckbands to whatever width I prefer. I used the twin needle on the sewing machine to secure the neckband and the hems.

What I do still need to acquire is a lead fishing sinker to weigh down the drape on the inside. I often do this with cowls or drapes that need to fall nicely. At the moment the side drape, in this fabric that is heavier in weight to the knits I’ve used for this dress in the past, is a little more like a folded inwards pocket.

I strongly suspect that I will continue to sew this pattern on a yearly basis. I’ve been pleasantly surprised to discover that it works just as well as a layering piece as it it does in a cooler summer weight knit. Yesterday I wore it layered over a wool knit (purchased) top with thick stockings and boots, then I added a Tesssuti Sydney jacket and a scarf. Cosy!

Thanks for all the lovely feedback on my work wardrobe in the previous post – I am pleased that a number of you felt inspired or informed by it.

Every now and then I attempt to explore different skirt styles.  However, if you want to avoid highlighting your mid-section, there are not loads of options to try.  I tend to end up in straight skirts.  That’s not a bad thing, but I do like variety.  I was pleased then when Style Arc released their Taylor Knit Skirt pattern.  Yes, it’s a straight skirt – but with some interesting seaming.

From the Style Arc website: TAYLOR KNIT SKIRT: This figure flattering jersey tube skirt features a split hem and elastic waist. With its great angles can be made in a stripe to show the design lines as well a plain knit.

My first rendition of this skirt was in digitally printed scuba from Spotlight.

I sewed size 12, as per my hip measurement. My waist is a much larger size, but this skirt is stretchy and has an elastic waist.

You can see how the stripes meet in interesting ways. There is no way of trying to make them match, so it’s actually a very quick skirt pattern to cut out and to sew.

I didn’t make any alterations to the pattern, so this is the finished length for a person of 158cm tall. Of course, finished length will depend a bit on where you where your skirt – high up on your body, or lower on your hips. Because I am fairly cylindrically shaped I can pretty much pull this skirt up or down around my mid-section and alter the length that way.

So when I was at Sewjourn, I made another one. This time I used Spotlight striped ponte. The stripe angles are even more obvious in this fabric.

There are only two pattern pieces for this skirt. You can cut it out with the pattern pieces oriented along the grain or along the stripes. There are no side seams, just some darts for waist shaping. The little split in the front seam is straightforward. I sewed the skirt on the overlocker except for the front seam, as I needed to be able to press the open split and topstitch around it.

I used a twin needle for the hem. For the waist I cut elastic to my waist measurement minus an inch, overlapped the ends and sewed it into a circle, then overlocked it to the wrong side of the skirt. I then turned it over once to the inside and zig-zagged to secure.

So although it’s yet another straight skirt, the seaming and stripe interplay make it that little bit more interesting.  I like it a great deal!