Month: February 2016

adult's clothing, DCF Challenge, sewing

DCF Seasonal Challenge – Summer 2016

How is this for just squeezing Summer’s DCF Challenge* in?  Even with an extra day this summer, I’m getting my blog post up with only a few hours to spare.  Hopefully the autumn challenge garment post will be a little less tardy!

Uptown Top in Darn Cheap Fabrics woven viscose

Emma and I bought this woven viscose from Darn Cheap Fabrics when she was down in Melbourne during the summer holidays.  We came this close to buying silk for our challenge this season, but eventually the miser in both of us kicked in and we decided that the viscose would be much more practical and significantly more budget friendly.  Not only do we have similar taste in fabrics, but we have similar spending preferences!  I wasn’t entirely certain what I’d make when we bought the fabric, but thought that a top I could wear to work would be good.  And that’s what I ended up with – a top that I can wear to work, or wear casually.

Uptown Top in Darn Cheap Fabrics woven viscose

I have to admit that the pattern choice was entirely inspired by Anna.  I saw her version of the Uptown Top (from a little known to me pattern company called A Verb For Keeping Warm) and I very quickly hit the pdf pattern purchase button.   This was the pattern that I had been looking for to pair with this viscose!  The pattern company describe the top as follows: The Uptown Top is a flatteringly oversized garment, designed to be worn with a great deal of ease. Make it with the hip band and it is the perfect length to wear with tights or leggings, or make it without the hip band and it will be your new favorite top to pair with jeans or a skirt.  Wear the Uptown Top for a night out with your friends, or as a cool, lightweight layer at the beach this summer! Sew it in a variety of fabrics for different moods and occasions. 

Uptown Top in Darn Cheap Fabrics woven viscose

Yes, it is super simple.  The front and back pieces are almost rectangular, although the shoulders do slope down gently.  I lowered the front neckline an inch or so.  The sleeves are elongated triangles that are sewn to the sides of the front and back pieces.  They are sewn together across the shoulders and up most of the sides, leaving an opening at the top of the side for the armhole.  This means that there is no gaping – hooray!  I didn’t bother with the hem band, but turned up a two inch hem.

Uptown Top in Darn Cheap Fabrics woven viscose

I decided to sew the middle size, which is for a 44″ finished hip measurement.  This top is designed with plenty of ease.  It’s certainly not a top for those who like waist definition or a more fitted silhouette.  The triangular sleeves allow for lovely curved drape at the sides of the top, while leaving the front and back fairly straight.  It’s a little reminiscent of the Style Arc Hedy dress.

Uptown Top in Darn Cheap Fabrics woven viscose

You can see the shape of the top very well in these photos.  Most construction was on the overlocker, with the hems and neckline binding on the machine.  If you make this top, remember to overlock the edges of the sleeve separately before stitching them together on the machine – this makes it much easier to turn the armhole opening to the inside for a narrow hem later on.

Uptown Top in Darn Cheap Fabrics woven viscose

I made my own bias binding using an 18mm bias maker to finish the neckline.  The pattern does come with a facing option, but I tend to prefer binding in soft drapey fabric like viscose.  I chose to sew the binding to the wrong side then turn it to the right side and topstitch it down.  After a shot of steam from the iron the binding curves beautifully around the neckline and adds a tiny bit of extra detail.

Uptown Top in Darn Cheap Fabrics woven viscose

I wore this top to work today with Style Arc Linda pants in navy and heeled court shoes, and felt great in it all day.  I wonder what Emma has made from her seasonal challenge fabric?

Uptown Top in Darn Cheap Fabrics woven viscose

* Emma and I started the DCF Seasonal Challenge a year or two ago – we buy  a couple of metres of the same fabric from Darn Cheap Fabrics each season, and each make a garment.  We then reveal it on our blogs on the same day.  It’s just a fun thing that we started when we realised how often we buy and sew the same fabrics (often from Darn Cheap).

adult's clothing, sewing

Style Arc Hedy

Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links.  If you buy the pdf patterns via my links, I make a little bit of money that is likely to go toward buying myself yet more Style Arc patterns…

Oh, sack dresses, how I love you.  Especially sack dresses with interesting details.

Style Arc Hedy Designer Dress

Yes, it’s another Style Arc dress. This is the Style Arc Hedy Designer Dress.  From their website: HEDY DESIGNER DRESS: Hedy is a simple, unstructured shaped dress that has cleverly constructed design lines. The asymmetrical neck pleat drapes to the side seam and creates the hidden pockets and the fabulous cocoon shape.   The Hedy pattern comes in 2 lengths – a knee-length dress & mid-calf length dress with side splits. FABRIC SUGGESTION & DESCRIPTION: Knit Jersey, Stretch Silk or any fabric with a stretch component and drape.

hedy-dress

I used a printed stretch fabric that a friend gave me a while back (thanks Nikki!) – and I think it matched beautifully with this pattern.  I did pay attention to where the large motifs would fall when I cut this out – I really didn’t need a huge exploding flower right on my stomach!  I think that I pretty much succeeded in that regard.

Style Arc Hedy Designer Dress

It is a little difficult to see some of the style lines in the print, but they are quite clear in the line drawing. There are princess style seams at the back, and at the front. The front princess style seams have pockets hidden in them. They are nicely constructed, with interfaced pocket bearers. After under stitching them as per the instructions they sit very nicely in those front seams.

Style Arc Hedy Designer Dress

The shoulders seams are actually shifted to the front, in a slight curve, that adds a nice point of difference to the top. The sleeve edges are hemmed before the side seams are sewn. By doing this there aren’t issues with turning a sleeve hem over an acute angle, and it’s easy to match up the sleeve edges at the underarm. The shaping of the sleeve and side panels gives a really nice drape from below the arms to the hemline in addition to allowing plenty of room for movement.

Style Arc Hedy Designer Dress

I chose to finish the front neckline with self fabric binding rather than a wide facing. I topstitched it down around the neckline from one edge of the pleated centre front section to the other, and secured the binding on the inside with hand stitching over the pleated area. This allowed the fabric to drape easily from the pleats. This is also quite a thick area with multiple layers of fabric once the pleats are sewn in place. In a thicker fabric I’d just use a wider facing for the neckline rather than the narrower binding.

Style Arc Hedy Designer Dress

There are diagrams to help with the trickier bits of the dress construction, and I didn’t really have any issues with putting this together. I did take things slowly when putting together the front folds, and the markings are really important in helping to align everything properly.

Style Arc Hedy Designer Dress

I sewed straight size 12 in the shorter version of the pattern, without alteration. I am considering making the longer version in a warmer knit for winter. I’ll just need to make sure that I don’t choose anything too thick – it’s important that you consider the neckline pleats and that this needs to drape nicely.  Most construction was on the overlocker, with the machine used just as needed.  I used a simple straight stitch for hems.

Style Arc Hedy Designer Dress

The Hedy Designer dress is available from Style Arc’s Gumroad shop here.  At the moment they also have these patterns available from Gumroad:

as well as the Maris top that I blogged a week or two ago.  More patterns will be added as they continue to trial the site as an alternative to their Etsy store.  If you prefer paper patterns they are still available from their website as usual.

I love this dress, and know that it will get loads of wear.  It’s interesting to consider all the elements that go into something being a “YES!” garment versus an “okay” garment.  It really is a combination of style, colour, print, scale, and shape – as well as how much I enjoyed the construction process.  There are so many elements to get right!  Now I’m thinking about whether I “need” to sew that Alegra jacket….I think it would work beautifully over a long winter version of the Hedy…

Style Arc Hedy Designer Dress

adult's clothing, Bootstrap Fashion, sewing

Bootstrap Fashion Vado flares #1

I think that pants are one of the hardest things to fit well.  There are so many dimensions to take into account!  Circumferences, angles, variation in rise, distribution of body mass, all of those things.  You’ve probably noticed that the pants I make tend to have particular features.  They almost all have at least partially elasticised waists.  If they are in a non-stretch woven fabric they are usually loose fitting.  If they are slim fitting they are in stretch wovens.  This certainly helps to keep fitting easy.  Either the style or the fabric type does most of the work.  So sewing my own jeans is definitely a big call when it comes to fit.

Bootstrap Fashion Vado design your own flare jeans in rigid denim from Rathdowne Fabrics

I’ve mentioned Lekala patterns a few times on this blog, along with Bootstrap Fashion.  Both these companies use the same Leko software for their patterns, which allows you to order patterns customised to your measurements.  They both re-sell Russian Leko patterns, which is why you will find some of the same patterns on both websites, but Bootstrap Fashion also sell patterns from other designers, and have a design centre feature where you can design your own dress pattern.  This feature is still in early stages, and will eventually be extended to all sorts of garment styles.  Bootstrap Fashion are currently crowdfunding through Indigogo to continue to improve their website and software offerings to act as a central source of customised fashion designs.  I am very happy to give them a plug in regards to this because I think that what they are doing is absolutely innovative.  They have been engaging with a number of sewing bloggers to really find out what it is that people want, and responding accordingly.  And their patterns are very cheap – ranging from free patterns to less than US$2 and up to US$13 – which is impressive when you consider that they are personalised.

Bootstrap Fashion Vado design your own flare jeans in rigid denim from Rathdowne Fabrics

So, on to the jeans.  I chose to sew a pair of flares with a high waist, in a rigid denim (from Rathdowne Fabrics).  Bootstrap Fashion have Vado jeans in high, medium or low waisted options in skinny, flare and boyfriend styles. I now realise that I pretty much chose the most difficult fitting option available for my body shape.  There are a few reasons for this.  You can see a fair number of them in the handy little body avatar that Bootstrap Fashion and Lekala provide when you order one of their patterns.

Your_3D_Avatar - Bootstrap Fashion

When you sew for yourself, you really do have to be honest about your body shape. I am about 8kg over the healthy BMI range for my height at the moment, and as you can see most of that excess 8kg sits right on my front abdomen. It’s pretty much a mid-pregnancy shape. And that avatar is very accurate.  What this means fitting wise is that I don’t have much waist to hold anything up.  When I try on jeans in the shops, my issue is always in finding ones that fit snugly around my hips, thighs and bum, but can still do up around my middle.  When I took my measurements for the jeans, I didn’t pull the tape measure very tight because I wanted to avoid the waistband squishing fat rolls.  However, I didn’t fully realise that without the waistband being tighter it would be hard to keep the jeans up because my hip and waist differential are so low.  You’ll see this better in photos later.

Bootstrap Fashion Vado design your own flare jeans in rigid denim from Rathdowne Fabrics

There are plenty of guides to help you with measuring, such as this one. I’ve also taken a screen shot of all the measurements that are needed for the jeans. Getting those measurements right really is what the final fit success will depend on.

Bootstrap Fashion Vado design your own flare jeans in rigid denim from Rathdowne Fabrics

You have the option to specify your buttocks shape – I chose flat. A similar feature for stomach shape exists when you are ordering a skirt or dress pattern. I think that this is a marvellous feature. For me, a waist circumference measurement alone doesn’t tell you that most of my circumference is at the front. With the stomach shape feature I end up with much more fabric in the front pattern pieces of dresses or skirts, which is wear I need it. The jeans pattern does pretty much the same thing via the alteration for buttocks shape.

Bootstrap Fashion Vado design your own flare jeans in rigid denim from Rathdowne Fabrics

You can also specify the amount of stretch in the denim that you are using. This means that the pattern pieces and sizes will be customised accordingly by the software. I selected non-stretch.

Bootstrap Fashion Vado design your own flare jeans in rigid denim from Rathdowne Fabrics

So, on to the finished product! You do get instructions with the pattern, which include a lot of photos. They have been translated from Russian, and still aren’t quite perfect, but I have sewn jeans before.  With a combination of the supplied instructions, other references, and common sense, I didn’t have any difficulties with sewing these together. I did have to unpick the pockets and sew them on again at the end once the jeans were fully assembled in order to get a pleasing placement. So my advice there is even though it’s easier to sew the pockets on before the jeans are constructed, it’s probably better to wait until the end so that you can position them in a place that looks best on your body. I moved them in quite a lot as compared to the suggested placement on the pattern.

Bootstrap Fashion Vado design your own flare jeans in rigid denim from Rathdowne Fabrics

I used a jeans needle and swapped between normal thread and upholstery thread in the needle depending on what part of the jeans I was constructing. I had a jeans zipper in stash, and used quilting cotton for the pocket bags. With upholstery thread in the needle and normal thread in the bobbin, I had the odd tension issue and small thread snarl, but overall it worked pretty well. In the past I’ve sometimes just used normal thread but with a triple stitch for topstitching. That may have worked better in this case as well. Another thing to remember for next time! I finished edges on the overlocker.

Bootstrap Fashion Vado design your own flare jeans in rigid denim from Rathdowne Fabrics

I decided to add the belt loops even though I hardly ever wear belts. I had tried the jeans on before adding the waistband, and realised at that stage that I was going to have problems keeping them up due to my lack of hips and width of waist. I took them in a little at the waist side seams at that stage. As it turned out I do need the belt loops, as they do need a belt to stay in a comfortable position.

Bootstrap Fashion Vado design your own flare jeans in rigid denim from Rathdowne Fabrics

I rather enjoyed working with the rigid denim. It was very easy to sew, and because it was a mid-weight I decided to not use interfacing in the waistband. Every single piece of the pattern fitted together absolutely perfectly. The length was absolutely perfect, with the flare starting at exactly the right place for my height. Some googling had given me a suggested width for the leg opening to give a bootleg/small flare style, and I’m really pleased with the end result there. I had measured the knee width from a pair of existing jeans, forgetting that the ones I was measuring were stretch denim, so these jeans in rigid denim are actually tighter through the knee than I would prefer. I did let them out a little through the knee but didn’t have much seam allowance to play with. As it turns out they were still comfortable enough in wearing. They feel great through the thigh, and around the stomach. But they are too big to stay up comfortably through the waist. So, on to photos.

Bootstrap Fashion Vado design your own flare jeans in rigid denim from Rathdowne Fabrics

Now these are the views that normally would never be seen – I don’t show off that stomach or tuck anything in as a rule. The things that I do for education in sewing! These were taken at the end of a day of wear, and show the jeans without the belt. You can see that it is sagging down there as the fabric tries to move from a larger place (my waist) to a smaller place (towards my hips). The next photos are with a belt – but the belt is actually too small and pulls them in tighter than is completely comfortable. As I don’t usually wear belts it was the best I could find in the recesses of my wardrobe, but I need to get another one that is my waist size at age 47 rather than what my size was at age 27.

Bootstrap Fashion Vado design your own flare jeans in rigid denim from Rathdowne Fabrics

I think that you can tell from these that the fit is actually pretty good once the waist is up in the right place, especially considering that these are rigid denim and I need to be able to move and sit down in them. After a day of wear I knew that they couldn’t have been any tighter or smaller through the back thigh if I was going to be comfortable. However, I prefer the closer look that stretch denim would allow for. The stomach room in these jeans was fantastic. So comfortable for fitted jeans! So, to how they actually look as I would wear them with my top out.

Bootstrap Fashion Vado design your own flare jeans in rigid denim from Rathdowne Fabrics

Bootstrap Fashion Vado design your own flare jeans in rigid denim from Rathdowne Fabrics

Bootstrap Fashion Vado design your own flare jeans in rigid denim from Rathdowne Fabrics

So, final verdict?  I love the leg shape and length.  I love that they fit around my belly.  I love the way that the pattern pieces fitted together.  What would I change for me for next time?

  • use stretch denim
  • make the knee measurement a little larger
  • pull the tape measure tighter around my waist – if you had a more typical women’s shape with smaller waist as compared to hips you probably wouldn’t have my issues with the pants wanting to slip down.  I don’t think that I can get away without fat rolls above the waistband if I want my pants to stay up.
  • go for a medium rise instead of a high rise.

Bootstrap Fashion Vado design your own flare jeans in rigid denim from Rathdowne Fabrics

The key with these jeans is getting your measurements right, and knowing what style you most like to wear and feel comfortable in.  I think that these are a success, although I don’t think that they are perfect, but they definitely have me going in the right direction for sewing my own traditional jeans.  If you are ordering from Bootstrap Fashion, I strongly suggest that you really take the time to read the information on the website carefully so that you measure properly.  They have loads of patterns available – I have a couple of tops and some dresses underway as well.  I notice that Barbara and Beth have also been sewing Bootstrap Fashion jeans lately, so you can take a look at theirs as well and see how they went.

adult's clothing, sewing

Summer Frocktails – Simplicity 1733 again

I think that last minute sewing has become a bit of a Frocktails tradition for many people.  I happened to have a bit of time up my sleeve, and plenty of patterns and fabrics at my disposal, so I began Frocktails sewing weeks ahead of the actual date.  My first dilemma was about what to make.

Frocktails Options

I did of course ask the hive mind of Instagram to help me decide, but that didn’t end up helping at all as opinions were divided between all four patterns. So I just picked one and started sewing. As it turned out, it was very fast to make. So I picked out another one, and sewed that. Then a third. Then a fourth. And on the day of Frocktails? I sewed the fifth.

Frocktails Options

I’ve already shown you one of the dresses that I made – the Flutter dress. But this one is the dress that I eventually chose to wear. It’s Simplicity 1733, sleeveless and full length.

Simplicity 1733 in slinky knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

The fabric is from Darn Cheap Fabrics (yes, from the $2 table). It’s a lovely slinky poly/spandex knit, in a coral that works beautifully with my colouring. It’s the same fabric that I used for Clare’s top.

Simplicity 1733 in slinky knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

You’ve heard the details of Simplicity 1733 before in this post and this one, so
I’ll mostly share some photos. I did remember to take one mid construction of the bodice – this might help some of you to better visualise the way that the front twist goes together.

Simplicity 1733 in slinky knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I had my hair curled especially for the event as a bit of a lark. I wasn’t expecting to like it, but figured that I could wash it out if it looked terrible. I don’t think that I’ve had curls since a spiral perm in 1990. Anyway, I decided that it was a lot of fun, and others said nice things about it on the night! I might try it again one day. I actually felt a little bit “old Hollywood glam” with this dress and hair combination.

Simplicity 1733 in slinky knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I also sewed a simple embroidered mesh shrug to wear with my dress in case I got a little chilly. I used a remnant that was in stash, using the full width of the fabric so that the embroidered edges of the selvedges became the sleeve edges.

Simplicity 1733 in slinky knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

This is a very simple shrug to make, and there are loads of tutorials on the internet explaining how to do it. Google “sew one seam shrug” or “sew shrug tutorial” or “free shrug pattern” etc and you’ll find something like this that will work for you. Essentially it is a rectangle folded in half and seamed from one wrist to the other BUT with a gap left in the centre for the body. The edges of the gap can be simply turned and hemmed, or you can do what I did and use some fabric to bind the opening (like you’d do the neck of a knit top).

Simple rectangular one seam shrug in embroidered mesh from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Simple rectangular one seam shrug in embroidered mesh from Darn Cheap Fabrics

To wear it, you just put your arms through the sleeves and the opening just curves around your back and neck. It does need soft and stretchy fabric to work effectively.

Simplicity 1733 in slinky knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

As it turned out, I was warm enough without my shrug. So, to finish off, just a few more photos from Frocktails by Louisa Jones Photography.

Frocktails January 2016

Frocktails January 2016

Frocktails January 2016

The signature drink this time was the Tailor’s Tack.  I can’t remember what was in it, but it was delicious!

Frocktails January 2016

Thanks to Kat, Libby and Renee for organising the night – and to the ladies who coordinated some of the events around Frocktails, such as Friday night dinner, Sunday breakfast, and the epic fabric shopping trip (well done Anna!).  I couldn’t make it to the surrounding events, but the word was that they were all great fun!

Frocktails January 2016

Frocktails January 2016

The four of us work at the same place – but met through sewing!  We pretty much never run into one another at work.

Frocktails January 2016

(and no, I am not wearing Spanx).

adult's clothing, sewing

Style Arc Maris top

Hello there!  First week of work and school almost done and dusted, hooray!  It’s been a very busy start to the year, but all is going smoothly.  So, onto more garments!

This is the Style Arc Maris top.  I strongly suspect that it is named after the wonderful sewing instructor and blogger Maris Olsen.

Style Arc Maris top in cotton linen from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Style Arc describe this as follows: This top has an interesting front hem panel that continues to the back giving a fabulous silhouette.  Use your own creative flare, mixing fabrics or colours for your own individual look.  We made our sample in Linen but would also work in a knit as well.  FABRIC SUGGESTION: Crepe, Silk, Georgette, knit

maris-top

I used cotton/linen from Darn Cheap Fabrics for my top, making the most of the scraps that remained after cutting out my orange Annie dress and a red one for my cousin.  Because I was using scraps I had to piece the front of the centre panel.  I chose to topstitch either side of the joining seam as a feature, and I then repeated the topstitching beside all other seamlines except for the side seams.

Style Arc Maris top in cotton linen from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I chose to cut wide bias binding so that I could completely bind the neckline and the sleeve hems. It was rather fun playing with the alternating orange and red colours. The stitching is all in red, and primarily done on the orange fabric. I know it’s a subtle detail, and it’s more difficult to see in photographs than in reality, but it’s one that I think really adds to the top.

Style Arc Maris top in cotton linen from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I sewed this in straight size 12, without any alterations. Assembly was fairly fast and straightforward, and I pretty much followed the instructions for the order of construction. The hemline is double folded and topstitched.

Style Arc Maris top in cotton linen from Darn Cheap Fabrics

The shaping of that bottom panel is really interesting, and I really like the way that it hangs in wear.

Style Arc Maris top in cotton linen from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Style Arc are currently trying a new option for their pdf patterns, instead of via Etsy.  This new platform allows an affiliate program, which Style Arc have invited me to join.  Anyone who has followed my blog for a while knows that I really enjoy their patterns, and blog about them and review them honestly.  Now I’ll get a bit of a financial benefit if you buy the pdf patterns through links on my blog (which will probably go straight to buying more Style Arc patterns).

The Maris top pdf is available for purchase here – and if you use the code thornberry20 you will get 20% off the price.  Everybody loves a discount!  Of course, if you want the hard copy pattern (which is what I used for my top) you can order it from their website, and the Etsy option is currently still available.  It’s up to you whether you use my links or not!

Style Arc Maris top in linen cotton from Darn Cheap Fabrics

This pattern will definitely get another whirl.  Obviously it really lends itself to colour blocking, but I’d also like to try mixing knits and wovens, or try an all knit version.  This pattern is definitely a winner for me.