Thursday, 28 January, 2016

Comparing Apple(ton)s with Apple(ton)s

My blog posts about my Appleton dresses have garnered a bit of interest. I thought that it would be worthwhile to compare the two dresses side by side, with most other factors taken out of the equation. Photos taken on the same day. Same underwear. Same shoes. Different necklaces but of similar shapes. Same location, same lighting, same poses, dresses tied the same way. So here you go – these were only taken a few minutes apart.

Remember that these are the same size – 12 C/D, and the fabric is type is extremely similar. The fabric in the pink spotted dress is slightly softer; I think that it has more viscose than the blue/green which I now suspect has some poly in it. Otherwise the only difference is the colour and the print.

For reference, my original blog post on the pink spotted dress is here and the original blog post on the blue/green reptilian print is here.

I think it’s interesting!

Thursday, 28 January, 2016Saturday, 11 February, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing, tessuti patterns

Tessuti Kate top (again)

I think that this was one of the last garments I sewed in 2015. It was certainly the last one that I wore, to a friend’s house for dinner on New Year’s Eve.

The pattern is the Tessuti Kate top. I’ve sewn it before, but that was view A with the scoop neckline. This time I sewed view B, with the higher front neckline and back slit opening.

I decided to enclose the armholes and neckline with binding rather than face them with it as per the instructions. This led to slightly smaller armholes and a slightly smaller neckline. I used my 25mm bias tape maker with strips that were cut 48mm wide rather than the the width of the pattern pieces that were provided. I attached the binding to the wrong side of the top and then wrapped it around to the right side, enclosing the seam allowances. I was then able to topstitch it in place neatly from the right side.

There was one thing that I hadn’t thought about in advance when doing this though. I’d finished the centre back opening and included the bias fabric button loop right at the top of it as per the instructions. But then when I enclosed the seam allowances in binding, the neckline finished the binding width above the loop that I had already sewn. If I’d been thinking ahead a teensy bit more I’d have included the button loop at the top of the binding, rather than below it. However, would anyone other than a sewer realise?

The button is a vintage one from stash. Now, I really need to talk about this fabric. It’s linen in the colour Sulphur by Merchant and Mills, and was bought from Stitch 56. It is expensive linen, and costs way, way more than I would usually pay for fabric, but I absolutely adore it. It’s the same linen I used for my Style Arc Ethel top and pant, and not only is a delight to sew, but it’s wonderful to wear and to launder. Definitely a quality fabric. It also comes in a superb colour range. Highly recommended for when your budget allows and you want something special.

Once again I sewed size Medium, which is perfect for me in this top. The darts are in just the right place. Tessuti describe it as cropped and boxy. It’s the right length for me, and as most of you know, boxy is the shape that I definitely prefer in tops. I feel best in boxy – no point trying to define a waist that isn’t there, and it is way more comfortable not to have fabric close to my mid-section. I don’t prioritise dressing in a “slimming” manner so the current prevalence of boxy styles is right down my alley. I think that it always will be!

This is such a great top – I feel fantastic in it, and suspect that it will be my staple sleeveless top pattern from here on in. The side vents are perfect too. In a solid colour it is a wonderful blank canvas. I love it with these semi-precious stone beads that my Mum bought through a bus window in India one day!

Thursday, 28 January, 2016Saturday, 11 February, 2023 by thornberry

children's clothing, kids clothing, sewing, tween

New Look 6297 – the maxi

There are a few different views in New Look 6297. As well as view C, that I have already blogged, there is a sleeveless maxi. New Look offer it with a subtle high-low hemline or with a hemline that has applied ruffles. I chose to sew it with a plain level hemline.

Once again I sewed size 10 for Clare. The fabric is a poly/spandex knit from Spotlight. Because it is a border print I cut it on the cross-grain. Although you would generally cut a knit with the greatest degree of stretch going around the body rather than running lengthwise, there is plenty of spandex in this knit and it stretches very well both ways.

This was super simple. Front, back, long strips to finish the neckline and armholes. The long strips were cut across the width of the fabric as they usually would be, from areas of the fabric where the colour was more dense. This was to contrast more with the paler areas of the border print that were concentrated at the top of the dress.

All construction was on the overlocker. The bands were folded in half then applied to the right side around the armholes and neckline, with the seam allowances secured via a zig zag stitch from the right side on the machine. The pattern also suggested a tie for the back to add more detail and bring in the armholes a little more. It’s just a rectangle of fabric sewn into a tube.

There is minimal strap exposure for a racer-back crop top, which kept me happy. The kids don’t care about straps, especially if they are brightly coloured and contrasting, and while part of me understands that aesthetic there is a stronger part that prefers straps and other elements of underpinnings to be hidden!

New Look 6297 maxi in polyester knit from Spotlight

I suspect that the armholes are a little lower in this fabric because of cutting it on the cross than they would have been otherwise. Having the greater strength running downwards in what is also a slightly heavy fabric is possibly dragging them down a little. I’d like to see this made in a cotton/spandex or viscose/spandex. But I couldn’t resist that border print!

Thursday, 28 January, 2016 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing

Vogue 9067 top and Style Arc Brooke skirt

Sewing Vogue 9067 was an interesting experience. It’s a Vogue pattern that I’ve seen pop up on quite a few blogs now. At first I saw more about view A, the sleeveless top. Then attention seemed to switch to view C. As it happens, view C was the one that I bought the pattern for.

v9067

Vogue describe this pattern as follows: MISSES’ TOP AND PANTS: Very loose-fitting, pullover top has back neck slit, button/loop, and seam detail variations. A and B: back extends to side front, no side seams. C: bias neck binding and sleeve and hemline flounce. Semi-fitted pants. D: straight-legged, partial elasticized waistband and stitched hems. E: tapered, elasticized waist and side pockets. A, B, C and E: narrow hem.
FABRICS: Silk Crepe, Lightweight Broadcloth, Jersey, Challis.

Okay, on to my top. Did you note that bit about the top being described as “very loose-fitting”? Here are details from the back of the pattern envelope and the finished measurements on the pattern piece itself.

My bust measurement is currently around 40″. According to the back of the Vogue envelope, that would put me in size 18, which is the Large in this pattern. I had bought the smaller size combination, knowing from experience that I am much more likely to sew somewhere around size 12. So I checked the finished bust measurement, printed on the pattern tissue. For the XS it was 44″. That would give me around four inches of ease, which would still be plenty and result in a loose top. CHECK THE FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS BEFORE YOU CUT! Only the bust measurement was important for this top, since it flares out even more through the waist and I didn’t have to worry about the ease there.

As well as cutting the XS, I did a little bit of petite-ing and took some length out through the body. The fabric is a voile that had been in my stash a little while. You can probably see in the photos that I took a considerable amount of care when cutting to keep the motif placement pleasing. The sleeve ruffles were cut as a single layer and narrow hemmed rather than being self-lined, and I left the back neck opening out completely. I chose to bind the neckline with bias binding made from the same fabric.

This is a very pretty print, in colours that I really like individually, but it wasn’t the right choice for this top for me. Other than the creasing in the above photo, it just feels too “delicate” and I think that from a distance it reads rather pale. However I do like the overall silhouette and would like to sew this again in a more drapey fabric. The voile is just a little too airy. I’d rather something that stayed a little closer to the body. So, on to the skirt.

This is the Style Arc Brooke skirt, in the shorter length. From their website: This on trend asymmetrical skirt has a full wrap that will allow you to wear this skirt with confidence that it will not fall We have given you two full patterns in two different lengths that gives you the choice of the mini skirt or the more sophisticated knee length. You will feel fabulous in either! FABRIC SUGGESTION & DESCRIPTION: Linen, cotton twill, wool gabardine.

brooke-skirt

I constructed this as per the instructions, except I left the front darts off completely to allow more stomach room. This resulted in quite a comfortable fit. I think I sewed size 12. Mini length on me is above the knee, but only just. That’s what happens when you are 158cm tall!

The fabric is orange rigid denim from Crafty Mamas that had been in stash for a little while. It has a bit of a slub running through it and was easy to sew, as denim generally is. Although this skirt fits well, I have only worn it once so far. It needs a bit more “playing with” to work out what tops go with it best. I’ve realised that I tend to reach for skirts with stretch in them before those sewn in rigid wovens. Back to that central theme of comfort, I suppose!

So overall? If you make this top, beware of the pattern sizing! I like the overall silhouette of the pattern, but will make it again for myself in a different fabric and pass this one on. It just doesn’t feel like “me”. The skirt will get more tries – it’s a matter of how to incorporate it into my wardrobe. I like the hemline at the front and it’s a good fit, and the colour definitely fits into my wardrobe.

Thursday, 28 January, 2016 by thornberry

THORNBERRY

Day: 28 January 2016

Comparing Apple(ton)s with Apple(ton)s

Tessuti Kate top (again)

New Look 6297 – the maxi

Vogue 9067 top and Style Arc Brooke skirt