Day: 5 September 2015

Liesl + Co, pattern comparison, sewing

Liesl + Co Maritime versus Simplicity 1366

A few months ago Jenny asked me how I thought the Liesl + Co Maritime top compared to Simplicity 1366 view D.  Well, I have finally taken some photos of the main pattern pieces so that you can see for yourself.  For reference, here are line drawings of both patterns.

Liesl + Co Maritime Knit Top

Simplicity 1366 (view D)

Simplicity 1366 view D line drawing

A few salient points:

  • The Maritime Knit Top is designed for knits, whereas Simplicity 1366 View D is designed for wovens.
  • The Maritime Knit Top has a shaped, interfaced facing to finish the neckline.  Simplicity 1366 uses a bias cut strip of fabric as a neckline facing.
  • The Maritime Knit Top has side seam vents.  Simplicity 1366 has no side seam vents but is shorter.

So, to the photos!  First, the front pieces side by side.

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And with one pattern piece on top of the other.

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Next, the back pieces side by side.

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And with one pattern piece on top of the other.

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And now for the sleeves! First, side by side.

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Then one on top of the other.

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I found this to be quite an interesting process. Although at first glance these appear to be two very similar patterns, there are a number of differences in the drafting when you compare each of them side by side.  I think that much of this would be due to the different fabrics they are drafted for, but otherwise it’s the subtleties that make one simple top still look different from another.

Just as a reminder for how the finished tops look, here is the first Maritime top that I made, without any modification:

Liesl + Co Maritime knit top in fabric from Darn Cheap Fabrics

And this is Simplicity 1366, in a woven fabric, also without any modification.

Simplicity 1366 top in size 12

I’ve sewn Simplicity 1366 a few times in a knit, with lengthened sleeves, and I’ve also sewn the Maritime top (always in a knit) with lengthened sleeves as well. Both these are great basic patterns to have in my collection. I might just sew another 1366 today now – but with an added inch to the length. I’d be interested to hear your observations on the differences between these two patterns. Has anyone else sewn both?

by thornberry
adult's clothing, sewing

Kwik Sew 3801

Sometimes there are patterns that I always pause at in the pattern catalogue.  I stop, I ponder, I wonder if maybe that would be a good look for me?  Then I decide to wait until the next pattern sale, because surely that is such a popular style that it will be in the catalogue forever.  Then I see the pattern made up,  and realise that yes, it would be a good pattern on me!  Then I go to buy it – and realise that it has recently gone Out Of Print!  That, my friends, is the story of Kwik Sew 3801.  First I saw view A made up on Sarah, and shortly after I saw it on Kate as well. I had to have it.  It was no longer available.  Oh, what to do?  I whinged, I moaned, I complained – and one day whinged in front of the right person, who loaned me a copy to trace!  Oh, how wonderful!  And now I am the happy wearer of Kwik Sew 3801, view A.

Kwik Sew 3801 in wool acrylic knit from The Cloth Shop

There is a great deal about this style that appeals to me.  First, it’s loose through the body.  Second, it’s in a knit.  Third, the narrow sleeves balance out the volume in the torso.  Fourth, the edges are simply finished with an overlocker rolled hem.  Fifth – it’s so easy to wear!

Kwik Sew 3801 in wool acrylic knit from The Cloth Shop

The fabric is a wool/acrylic knit from The Cloth Shop. It is incredibly soft and cosy to wear, and was straightforward to sew. Actually, I sewed this the same day that I bought the fabric, so although it’s taken a while to get to the blog it has been in relatively high wardrobe rotation for quite a few weeks now. There was no sewing machine involved in sewing this top – it was all done on the overlocker.

Kwik Sew 3801 in wool acrylic knit from The Cloth Shop

I strongly suspect that this is a pattern I will return to over the years. It is a distinctive style, and you do need to use a fabric where both sides look to be the right side. One half of the front has the “wrong” side showing as a consequence of the centre twist. You can manoeuvre the twist to sit higher or lower; whatever your preference happens to be. I sewed this in size Medium, but the sizing would be influenced by the fabric composition and drape. In this fabric I could have probably sewn down a size, but I like the volume and coziness of the finished top. In fact, I think that I’ll wear it today!

by thornberry