Day: 23 June 2015

adult's clothing, Liesl + Co, sewing

yet another Maritime tee

Yet more of the same – but wait, it’s in a different fabric!

Liesl + Co Maritime top with full length sleeves

And wait again! It’s got long sleeves!

Liesl + Co Maritime top with full length sleeves

So, this is the Liesl + Co Maritime top again – the previous two are here, as are most construction details.  The fabric is a lovely soft viscose/lycra from Darn Cheap Fabrics (yes, the $2 table) and it feels absolutely delightful against the skin.  I lengthened the sleeves by laying the sleeve pattern for the Deer & Doe Plantain tee over the sleeve pattern for the Maritime tee and using the Plantain pattern from the underarm point down to the sleeve hem but the Maritime pattern for the top of the sleeve.  Does that make sense?  As it turned out I needed to both narrow and shorten the sleeves after the top was constructed, but that wasn’t hard to do.

Liesl + Co Maritime top with full length sleeves

In fact, I have another long-sleeved Maritime all cut out waiting to be constructed. That doesn’t really surprise you, does it…

children's clothing, kids clothing, sewing, tween

yet another Big Joey

Make It Perfect Big Joey dress in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I’ve sewn the Make It Perfect Big Joey dress for Clare twice before. Those were both summer versions, with short puffed sleeves.  This time around it was a long sleeved, cowl neck version, appropriate for Melbourne winter.

Make It Perfect Big Joey dress in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

The fabric is an acrylic fine gauge knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics. I originally bought it with Stella in mind, but she gave it a definite no. Luckily Clare gave it a definite yes! Last time I was in I spotted an alternate colourway, with more blue and brown in it.  Since it’s acrylic rather than wool it isn’t super warm, but layers up nicely with other garments.  Clare prefers not to wear wool next to her skin as she finds it irritating, so this was a good alternative.

Make It Perfect Big Joey dress in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

This was very easy to make. Since we decided to leave off the front pocket, it didn’t take long to construct at all. There is no sleeve gathering in this version, so all of the construction was on the overlocker. I made straight size 10. Clare must have grown, because this isn’t going to fit her for long. Luckily I have another daughter to pass clothes down to!

Make It Perfect Big Joey dress in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Some of you may have realised by now that this is the same fabric that was used for the sleeves of a Mandy top and a matching infinity scarf previously blogged. I used up every scrap – waste not want not! Clare layered her dress with a beautiful hand-knitted cardigan made by her Grandma. Although the cardi is wool, it isn’t in direct contact with her skin so it doesn’t irritate.

Make It Perfect Big Joey dress in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

My family have been blessed with many beautiful hand-knits over the years.

adult's clothing, sewing

Grainline Morris blazer

This blog post has been a long time coming – because I sewed this about nine weeks ago, according to Instagram.  Oh my!

I jumped onto the Grainline Morris Blazer pretty much as soon as it was released. A blazer that could be made in a knit or a stretch woven, unlined, with boxy shaping. Right up my alley! The description from the pattern page is as follows.

GARMENT DETAILS

The Morris Blazer is the perfect mix of casual and cool. It will quickly become the go-to garment to complete any outfit. With a mixture of drape and structure, bracelet length sleeves, and gentle shawl collar, it looks great dressed up or down. It works up well in fabrics with stretch, making it comfortable on top of everything else!

Techniques involved include sewing a straight seam, setting sleeves, sewing a shawl collar, facings, and topstitching. Pattern is nested to facilitate cutting between sizes if needed.

SUGGESTED FABRICS

Medium weight woven fabrics with a bit of stretch or medium weight stable knits. Various stretch wool suitings, stretch cottons, ponte knit, and French terry are all suitable, though the drape on each may be slightly different. This blazer is unlined.

I chose to sew my Morris in a relatively light weight printed ponte that I had just bought from Darn Cheap Fabrics.  It was rather soft – and this proved to be a problem.

Grainline Morris Blazer in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Spotted it yet? It doesn’t take long! The Morris is unlined and the facings that form the collar and hem edges are interfaced down to the points at the hemline. The main fabric is not. So in a soft fabric such as the ponte I had chosen, the fabric sagged terribly at the bottom fronts and wouldn’t sit flat. After some thought I decided to topstitch the facings to the fronts along their entire length. This pretty much fixed the problem.

Grainline Morris Blazer with Liesl + Co Maritime top

There are still some folds in the fabric in different places that are due to the drape of the cloth rather than the design of the jacket. I sewed this in size 12, I think. I found it hard to decide on what size. My bust measurement would have put in at a size 14, but a small voice inside told me to go smaller. I could possibly have gone down to the 10. Luckily the overall style is a relaxed one, and it doesn’t really matter a great deal. Despite the claims of some people in the sewing blogosphere, in my experience indie patterns are just as prone as Big 4 patterns to have large amounts of ease included in the design. It’s always a good idea to check the finished measurements and take your own ease preferences into account before deciding what size you want to make.

Grainline Morris Blazer with Liesl + Co Maritime top and Style Arc Barb pants

I rather like the fit across the back. The centre back seam could be shifted to be on the fold, but it provides some structure when sewing in a soft fabric like this one. One criticism that I do have of the drafting is that the facing that forms the collar does not allow for turn of cloth. It is cut to exactly the same measurements, so there is excess fabric at the back of the neck once the collar is folded back and the facing stitched to the seam on the inside. You can’t see that excess fabric because it is essentially under the fold of the collar, but it irritated me that it was there. The facing pieces needed to be cut larger at the back neck so that this wouldn’t happen.

Grainline Morris Blazer with Liesl + Co Maritime top and Style Arc Barb pants

There is now a sew-along for the Morris Blazer on the Grainline website.  I notice that they have mentioned the front sagging issue for soft fabrics, and suggest that you interface both the fronts as well as the facing.  I don’t doubt that this would work. The other option is to do as I did and topstitch the facings to the main fabric, or you could hand stitch them invisibly instead.

Grainline Morris Blazer with Liesl + Co Maritime top

I think that the Morris is a lovely casual blazer. Despite it being casual, I wore it to work (with Style Arc Barb pants and a Liesl + Co Maritime top – these are end of the day photos so all a bit crumpled). The shawl collar sits beautifully at the front – I talked about the back earlier – and I really like the shape of the simple pointed lapels. I think that it would fit easily into many wardrobes, and I’ve seen some beautiful versions around the internet. I do have another one cut out – also in a knit – but am tempted to give a stretch woven a try. Construction was shared between the overlocker and the sewing machine.

Grainline Morris Blazer with Liesl + Co Maritime top and Style Arc Barb pants

adult's clothing, sewing, tessuti patterns

More Misty and Mandy

Both these garments were sewn at Sewjourn back in May.  Yet more Misty and Mandy!

Style Arc Misty jeans with Tessuti Mandy top

The Tessuti Mandy boat tee was sewn a little shorter through the body than the pattern – maybe a little bit too much shorter.  I’ll add some length back on the next time that I sew it.  The fabric was from the Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 table.

Style Arc Misty jeans with Tessuti Mandy top

I’m trying to use up some of my double sided adhesive tapes from manufacturers other than Vliesofix at the moment. The one that I used on the hem of this top is a bit stiff. I’m not thrilled with the end result. However, it is still quite wearable.

Style Arc Misty jeans with Tessuti Mandy top

This is my fourth pair of Style Arc Misty jeans. This time I used some stretch sateen that was lurking in deep stash. I have a suspicion that this one came from the Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 table a little while ago as well.

Style Arc Misty jeans with Tessuti Mandy top

I cut this pair a little larger around the waist by adding to the side seams from the hips up. As with the last couple of pairs, rather than sewing the elastic to the top of the jeans I enclosed it in a band and attached that to the top. I left off the front mock pockets. These are surprisingly fast to sew now.

Style Arc Misty jeans with Tessuti Mandy top

These do look pretty tight around the bum, but they feel quite okay to wear. I really dislike my underwear lines showing around the leg edges. Maybe I need to investigate some different undies – but don’t even suggest G-strings to me! Sometimes it amazes me that I show photos that clearly reveal my pot gut and other rolls on the internet – yet at the same time, it is what it is, and how can you sew for it if you don’t acknowledge it?

Style Arc Misty jeans with Tessuti Mandy top