Day: 9 June 2015

adult's clothing, sewing

Are you jealous yet?

One of my dear friends – I met her through blogging, oh the wonderful powers of the internet – loves green.  She also loves a pinafore.  While I was at Sewjourn I sewed both.  For myself.

Style Arc Jodie pinafore with Deer & Doe Plantain tee

The tee is pretty basic. It’s a Deer & Doe Plantain tee, graded to my measurements. That means that it goes larger at the waist and narrower at the hips. Combined with the design ease and flare through the body, I end up with a body-skimming, scoop-neck winter tee that is perfect for layering. Poor quality photo follows but at least you can see the neckline depth and width.

Sewjourn makes May 2015

The fabric is wool jersey, bought from Rathdowne Fabrics. It sewed up beautifully on the overlocker, although I did make certain to stabilise the shoulder seams and the neckline before assembly. I used Gillian’s technique to get the neckband length and stretch right, as I usually do. It’s a great technique, especially when the neckline has a considerable degree of curve and the neckband is wider rather than narrower. The leftovers became a simple Infinity scarf. If you need a tutorial to make and infinity scarf there are plenty to be googled. I sewed the long sides of the fabric right sides together to make a long tube, then sewed the short sides right side together for as far as I could, leaving a gap for turning to the right side then stitching the gap closed. Easy peasy – and warm and effective. This one is long enough to double up again and become a higher snugglier scarf.

Style Arc Jodie pinafore with Deer & Doe Plantain tee

The pinafore was really an impulse item. I had been eyeing off the Style Arc Jodie pattern for a little while, but only recently took the plunge and obtained it. At the time I had no idea what fabric I’d use, however once I’d cut out my Misty jeans I realised that there was enough of the M. Recht denim left for something simple. I didn’t want another denim skirt or jacket – so a pinafore it became! It used up every single scrap.

Style Arc Jodie pinafore with Deer & Doe Plantain tee

Style Arc’s pattern picture and description are as follows:

JODIE DRESS / PINAFORE: Fun style tunic can be worn with leggings during the cooler months or with sandals on warmer days.
The side inset panel with curved hemline makes this style distinctively different.
Approx back length 90cm or 35”.

FABRIC SUGGESTION & DESCRIPTION: Soft denim or any woven fabric.

I sewed this in a straight size 12 without any alteration.  So take it from me – this dress/pinafore is short at the sides!  My only regret is that I failed to stabilise the hems before stitching the facings to them.  I didn’t take the stretch of the fabric into account, particularly around the curves.  It’s not a deal-breaker, but the hem is a little wavy and I know that I could have done better.  I may (or may not) feel tempted to unpick and restitch and re-tostitch them at a later date.  If you were using a non-stretch fabric this wouldn’t really be an issue.

Style Arc Jodie pinafore with Deer & Doe Plantain tee

Topstitching was done with upholstery thread. I find this works better in my machine than topstitching thread, especially if I make sure that I lengthen the stitch and use a needle with a larger eye. The instructions were the usual for Style Arc in that they were relatively sparse in some places, but an adequate order of construction. The tutorials on their website often help to fill in any gaps. Setting in the front zip was rather fun.

Sewjourn makes May 2015

The zip that I had was way longer than required. Rather than take advantage of the knowledge imparted by numerous “how to shorten a metal zipper” tutorials, and fortified by some excellent champagne, I got my scissors out and just cut the bottom off to the length that I wanted. Much faster and simpler! Of course I did do it carefully, and my scissors don’t appear to be any the worse for wear. I did cover the end of the zipper tape with a scrap of denim to ensure that it wouldn’t be scratchy against my skin on the inside of the pinafore.

Style Arc Jodie pinafore with Deer & Doe Plantain tee

You know how I often go on about how fast things are to sew? This pinafore wasn’t especially fast. Zips to insert, pockets to add, facings to construct and sew in place, topstitching to do. I even had to do some hand-stitching on the shoulder seams. It probably took me four or five hours?

Style Arc Jodie pinafore with Deer & Doe Plantain tee

Oh, the leggings are Style Arc Laura leggings, made forever ago. I really like this outfit combination, and am sure that the pinafore will layer well over a variety of coloured tops.  So Tan, have you finished your pinafore yet?

adult's clothing, sewing, tessuti patterns

More Mandy and Misty

Okay, another repeat pattern combination.  When you’re on a good thing, as they say.  It always fascinates me to see how much difference a fabric makes, too.

Style Arc Misty jeans with Tessuti Mandy tee

These are definitely becoming staple items in my wardrobe. The Mandy tee was sewn from scraps.

Tessuti Mandy tee and coordinating infinity scarf

The main fabric used for the front and the back is the last of a beautiful Gorman wool/something knit that came from Clear It. I used in for a Harper jacket and an Aeolian tee. I wish that I’d bought the entire roll – although from memory it was a massive roll of fabric! The sleeves – and the infinity scarf – are scraps from a soon to be blogged dress that I made for Clare. It’s an acrylic knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics.

Style Arc Misty jeans with Tessuti Mandy tee

The usual construction details – hems stabilised with double sided adhesive tape (usually the Vliesofix brand; I’ve used others and don’t like them much but still have some to use up) and then twin needled on the machine to secure. The rest of the construction is on the overlocker.

Style Arc Misty jeans with Tessuti Mandy tee

The pants are the Style Arc Misty pull-on jeans. This is the third time I’ve made them – and there is a fourth pair to blogged soon as well. Once again I left off the front mock pockets and switched the waistline sewn-on elastic for elastic encased in a separate band.

Style Arc Misty jeans in stretch denim from M Recht

The denim is from M. Recht. It’s the first time I’ve bought from them and it definitely won’t be the last (as the first thing I did when I returned from Sewjourn – after kissing and hugging the family, of course – was to jump online and order some more). Quality denim and the fastest delivery ever!  This denim is a cotton/rayon/lycra mix that makes them super stretchy and incredibly comfortable. So stretchy that I could possibly have gone down a size in the jeans – especially because I’d added a little to the waist measurement at the top of the side seams. These feel like I am wearing leggings. There is no tummy control at all with this degree of stretch in the denim, but gee they feel great on!

Style Arc Misty jeans in stretch denim from M Recht

The contrast topstitching was done with a triple stitch in regular polyester thread. In addition to adding about an inch and a half to the waist measurement, the jeans were shortened in two places as I usually do, one above the knee and one below.

Style Arc Misty jeans with Tessuti Mandy tee

adult's clothing, sewing

fishy business

I dedicated the first afternoon/evening of my recent Sewjourn visit to sewing for others.  My husband got yet another Jalie 2918 tee shirt with seasonally appropriate long sleeves.

Fishy Jalie tee

The fantastic fish fabric was from Clear It, but I believe that someone bought the entire roll. I was the lucky beneficiary of some of it – it’s beautiful fabric of a lovely mid-weight cotton/lycra quality. Just perfect for winter – and what a print! Some of you might remember that I have a tee in this fabric too…oh just a minute….here you go….

Fishy Jalie tee

Matchy matchy! And check out how the fish print flows straight across from one tee to the other…how is that for chance! Stella wants one as well and I’m sure that Clare could be persuaded.

And no – we won’t all wear them at the same time, except maybe for a Christmas photo.

Details on the Jalie 2918 tees that I’ve made so far are here and here.