Day: 25 May 2015

adult's clothing, Lekala, sewing

Lekala 4412 – tunic from knit fabric

Hello there!  Here I am again.  Churning out those blog posts while I have the opportunity and the inclination!  This time I bring you Lekala 4412, subtitled “tunic from knit fabric”.

Lekala 4412 technical drawing

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I am calling this one a success. It fits just as I think that it should. Hooray for the protruding belly adjustment! The fabric is a double layered, textured knit that was in my stash. It was very soft and has worked nicely in this style.

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Construction was all on the overlocker, so it was very fast. It’s also a straightforward design. I think that it would lend itself very well to colour blocking. Choice of fabric is important. You want something soft, but not thin.

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The only thing that I’m not too keen on is the high roll neckline. It’s not too tight – and in fact it’s pretty much like the fashion illustration on the Lekala website – but I really don’t like high necks. Which is a bit weird because I am more than happy to wear scarves around my neck and do so on a regular basis. I wonder what is going on deep in my psyche there?

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This is one of the Lekala patterns that I ordered with a narrow shoulder adjustment. It really doesn’t make much difference in this style, but after having used a few patterns with that adjustment now I am quite sure that I can skip that adjustment completely.

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This is a snug dress and would be even better for winter with the sleeves lengthened. As it is I can easily layer a thin long sleeved top underneath. I am calling this dress a win.  And thanks for the brooch Mum – I love it!

children's clothing, kids clothing, sewing

Twirl To Me

It seems like a long time since I test sewed the Lily Sage & Co Twirl To Me Dress.  I intended to get better modelled photos of it before sharing it on my blog, but the weather has changed and it’s going to be a long, long time before I can persuade Clare to wear a summer frock outside in the cold just so that I can take photos.  These ones were taken right at the end of the day and there was barely enough light – but you can still tell how lovely this dress is.

Pattern test - Lily Sage and Co Twirl To Me dress

The dress is described on the pattern page as follows: This dress is made for twirling. It is fitted through the chest, but volumes out into a trapeze shape. The hem is graduated to give the dress a beautiful shape from all angles, and the front bow fastening is a unique detail you won’t see anywhere else. There is also the option of using a button instead of a bow. The dress can be made in two length options; as a dress or a tunic/top. Suitable fabrics: Most light-medium weight wovens, including lawn, quilting cotton, poplin, Broderie Anglaise, silk dupioni, silk crepe de chine, taffeta, silk satin, rayon, wool crêpe

The pattern comes in sizes 3 – 10, and I sewed size 10 for my slim and small 12 year old. This is the test pattern dress length.

Pattern test - Lily Sage and Co Twirl To Me dress

We used a couple of vintage buttons from stash for the back closure, but Clare could get the dress on without undoing them. And yes, the dress really does twirl!

Pattern test - Lily Sage and Co Twirl To Me dress

Pattern test - Lily Sage and Co Twirl To Me dress

I used a quilting cotton that was in stash (originally from Spotlight) as Clare liked the colours and print. She wasn’t overly enamoured with the bow at the centre front. She thought that it looked pretty, but felt that it was a little young for her. Well, she is twelve and at high school!

Pattern test - Lily Sage and Co Twirl To Me dress

The pattern now comes with the option of a button closure at centre front instead of the bow. Clare definitely likes this option and has asked for her next Twirl To Me dress to have the button. She loved the slight high-low hemline, the twirl factor, and the overall comfort level of the dress.

Pattern test - Lily Sage and Co Twirl To Me dress

This photo shows the fabric colour and print a little better. Construction wise, I found the instructions to be very good. I’m not sure what changes Debbie made between the test and the final pattern, but overall I have been quite impressed with her drafting and instructions. There was a nice mix of written instruction and diagram. I used the sewing machine for most of the construction but the overlocker where appropriate. The hem is finished with bias binding, which gives a nice detail considering that with it being a high-low hemline you can see the inside of the skirt at the back.

Pattern test - Lily Sage and Co Twirl To Me dress

Unsurprisingly, Stella wants one too!

adult's clothing, Lekala, sewing

Lekala 5749 coat

Another Lekala project for you.  This one was started back in 2014.  Yikes!  It languished for some time waiting for a zipper.  For a long time.  For months, in fact.  But eventually I rummaged through my zipper stash and found something that would do.  It took me about 20 minutes to sew in the zip and finish a project that had been a UFO for a long, long time.  I bet that I am not the only person who does that!  So, on to Lekala 5749.  This is described as a “raincoat with stand up collar”.  I was drawn to the interesting exposed seemliness and darts.  The whole thing is sewn “inside out”.

Lekala 5749 technical drawing

Lekala 5749 coat in wool from Super Cheap Fabrics

Okay, first thing. This clearly hasn’t been sewn in raincoat fabric. I used wool from Super Cheap Fabrics. It is a beautiful fabric, tightly woven, and an amazing colour. And yes, all the seam allowances and dart are on the outside. I finished the edges with pinking shears. Still not certain that it was the best idea.

Lekala 5749 coat in wool from Super Cheap Fabrics

It’s an unlined coat, but it’s very warm due to the fabric composition and weave. All construction was on the sewing machine.

Lekala 5749 coat in wool from Super Cheap Fabrics

There are elements of this that I like, and elements that didn’t work as successfully. I like the raw pinked edges along the front edges and cuffs, but not along the slashed and opened darts. And the collar collapses a bit in this type of fabric, whereas I think that if I’d used the recommended “whipcord” it would have had more structure. Either way, it’s a warm winter coat, and I do wear it. Although I think that it is soon to fall victim to my next wardrobe purge as it is likely to be replaced by some of my upcoming Sewjourn plans.

Lekala 5749 coat in wool from Super Cheap Fabrics

adult's clothing, Lekala, sewing

Lekala 5957

Once again I am incredibly behind with blogging.  I blame Instagram.  It’s easy to find an excuse isn’t it – but if I didn’t blog I wouldn’t be able to search information about prior projects – and I wouldn’t be able to contribute to the sewing blogging conversation!  So I figure better late than never.

Thankfully photos are date-stamped.  I made Lekala 5957 on April 18th.  The pattern is described as “Classical Dress”.  The fashion illustration shows a fitted princess seamed dress, above the knee, with three quarter sleeves.

Lekala 5957 technical drawing

Interestingly, this is how it looked on me.

Lekala 5957 dress in stretch sateen from deep stash - pre-alteration

Not above the knee, not three quarter sleeves, not fitted. I have no idea what happened. Lekala are drafted to measure. There could have been a printing problem – I have to admit that I hardly ever measure the box to check that things are printing out to the correct size, although I do take special care to ensure that I tick all the printing boxes to print at 100% – but this dress turned out WAY larger than expected.

Lekala 5957 dress in stretch sateen from deep stash - pre-alteration

The photos give it a bit of a retro shift appearance, but it really did feel like a too big sheath dress. So I took it in. I took it in around the armscye and the side seams. And took it up. And shortened the sleeves. I didn’t adjust the princess seams, but it would have been a good idea if I had. I really should have just unpicked the whole thing and recut it smaller. Anyway, this is what I ended up with – much more like the fashion illustration.

Lekala 5957 dress in stretch sateen from deep stash

The fit is much better overall.

Lekala 5957 dress in stretch sateen from deep stash

The fabric is a stretch cotton sateen from deep, deep stash. I think that once upon a time it came from Spotlight.

Lekala 5957 dress in stretch sateen from deep stash

There is a lapped centre back zip, and the neckline is finished with bias binding used as a facing. Construction was very straightforward, and much of it on the overlocker. There is a centre back vent, and overall it is, as Lekala say, a classical dress. And that may be it’s problem, as far as I am concerned. I wore it once, to a work committee meeting, and by the end of the day the sateen was extremely creased and crumpled. I suppose that is to be expected in an unlined dress, but I really wasn’t happy with the creases. And despite it being a lovely fabric, and looking okay in the photos, it’s really not my style. It went out in the wardrobe purge. Bye bye dress – but I’m glad that I gave you a try.

Lekala 5957 dress in stretch sateen from deep stash