Month: May 2015

adult's clothing, sewing

Finlaysons are Fantastic!

This latest version takes the number of Thread Theory Finlayson sweaters that I’ve made so far to four.  Finlaysons are fantastic!  The first one is here.  The second one is here.  The third one was for my dad – it was never blogged and I only have one snap of that to show you.

Finlayson sweater size S in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Dad’s was made in size Small, with shortened sleeves, in a knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics. The fourth one was made last week for my husband.

Thread Theory Finlayson Sweater in fabric from Rathdowne Fabrics

This one is the Medium. As with the last couple I made him, I think that the sleeves are too long, but he disagrees so I have been forbidden to remove any length. The fabric is a proper rugby knit form Rathdowne Fabrics. The first two I made have been on high rotation and haven’t washed very well. I have higher hopes for this one.

Thread Theory Finlayson Sweater in fabric from Rathdowne Fabrics

Those bold stripes did require some thought in regards to placement and stripe matching. I’m quite pleased with the result. I used knit fusible interfacing in the collar, which has given it lovely shape and structure. I’m rather pleased with my efforts!

Thread Theory Finlayson Sweater in fabric from Rathdowne Fabrics

Most construction was on the overlocker. I used plenty of pins to help keep the stripes aligned. Didn’t feel the inclination to baste. They are mostly spot on. I only used the sewing machine for the collar (although I still overlocked the edges once the collar was attached).

Thread Theory Finlayson Sweater in fabric from Rathdowne Fabrics

And guess what? There is another one cut out, although this time in a jumper knit that is going to be much more challenging to sew. I think that I’ve been avoiding it….

Thread Theory Finlayson Sweater in fabric from Rathdowne Fabrics

(and how many people get why I loved writing that blog post title so much?)

adult's clothing, sewing

Grainline Linden – take two and take three

This is definitely an autumn/winter of simple sewing.  Straightforward patterns that let the prints and the colours shine.  And that take me very little time to sew (but surely that isn’t my primary motivator)!

You saw my first version of the Grainline Linden pattern here.  Since then I’ve made two more.  Each time I made size 10, and removed length from the sleeves but folding out a bit over an inch from the pattern piece in two places, both above the elbow and below.  This shortened the sleeves around 5-6 cm in total.

Grainline Linden sweater in fabric from Darn Cheap Fabrics and The Cloth Shop

This first one was a happy meeting of remnants. The abstract print used for the sleeves and bands came from The Cloth Shop in Ivanhoe. Yes, it was a small piece, but I was certain that it would find something to pair with at some stage. It didn’t take long before I came across another remnant,this time from Darn Cheap Fabrics. When I laid eyes on the slightly textured, jacquard knit in their remnant bin I knew exactly what it was destined for.
Grainline Linden sweater in fabric from Darn Cheap Fabrics and The Cloth Shop

These are softer, lighter weight fabrics than the one that I used for my first Linden. This makes the sweater much more drapey, with a looser and more relaxed fit. The crocheted scarf I am wearing in the first photo is the Boteh scarf – pattern available here. It’s one of my favourites.

Grainline Linden sweater in fabric from Darn Cheap Fabrics and The Cloth Shop

You can see the texture of the solid knit more in that photo. I used the bottom band instead of the shorter curved hemline because I was feeling too lazy to rethread the machine or to get out the fusible hemming tape. It was much faster and easier to simply add the bottom band, and it provided me with the opportunity to add that little bit more contrast.

Grainline Linden sweater in fabric from Darn Cheap Fabrics and The Cloth Shop

The next was an impulse sew. I called in to Spotlight to buy some fake fur to make Clare a vest, and while I was there I spotted a printed fleece with a plush backing. Oh, the softness – that was going to be be against my skin! I succumbed, bought the fabric, and cut it out that night.

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This used exactly the same pattern pieces as the last one, but the fabric choice has changed the fit substantially. It is much more like a windcheater. I managed to attach the neckband with the seam at centre front, so spent some quality time with the unpicker before reattaching it the correct way around. That possibly took longer than the rest of the construction process.

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The plush backing of the fabric made it a bit shifty when there were a few layers together. I had to use more pins than usual! I originally planned to leave the hem band off this one and do the curved front hem, but forgot until after the hem band was attached and the top pretty much finished.

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That’s probably it for the Linden pattern for me – for now. I have a feeling that it may re-emerge with the shorter sleeves and length once we get to spring – but that is a long, long way away!

adult's clothing, sewing

Simplicity 1366 – the jumper version

When I bought the vintage wool that I used for my jacket in the previous post I also bought a length of vintage wool boucle knit.  I believe that these vintage fabrics, now available at Rathdowne Fabrics, originally came from Job Warehouse that used to be in the city.  I always used to think that was the weirdest name for a business.  Job warehouse?  How could you warehouse jobs?  Was it like an employment office?  I had no idea that it meant “job lot” and was in reference to fabric, where large amounts of excess fabrics were available for purchase.  This is despite noticing the large numbers of haphazardly placed fabric bolts in the window (among dead flies and many layers of dust).  Well duh.

vintage wool boucle from Rathdowne Fabrics

This boucle has a metallic thread woven into it as well. I decided to use the rougher boucle side as the right side, not the smoother knit side that showed more sparkle. And I paired it with Simplicity 1366.

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And this is what I ended up with! I made size 12, and lengthened the sleeves while retaining the width. The finished length was actually pretty random. At first I considered shortening them, but in the end I left them as they are. They’re a good length to wear, as they show off a contrasting layer underneath and are short enough that the width of the sleeve doesn’t get in the way.

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Most construction was on the overlocker. Hems were turned to the inside and secured with a zig-zag, which mostly vanished into the weave. I failed to stabilise the neckline before turning it, which was a mistake. Luckily because the fabric was wool I was able to steam it back into shape without too much difficulty. I’m quite enjoying the shorter length of this jumper.  A little bit cropped, and rather boxy. There is no way that I’ll be wearing a fitted cropped jumper like the Astoria, but this is a great alternative for me and my style. I need to play with it a little more, but overall I like it.

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And this is how I’m wearing it today – with a Style Arc Fay skirt in ponte, purchased top underneath, and a crocheted cowl and fingerless mittens.  I feel great in this outfit!

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adult's clothing, sewing

Style Arc Mason jacket

One of Style Arc’s recent offerings was the Mason jacket.  From the pattern page:

MASON KNIT JACKET: This knee length Ponte knit jacket is given a fresh look with an interesting shawl collar, and large patch pockets , braid or bind the edges or just leave them raw. A truly staple piece for your wardrobe.

FABRIC SUGGESTION & DESCRIPTION: Ponte, boiled wool

Style Arc Mason jacket in vintage wool from Rathdowne Fabrics edged in linen ribbon from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I didn’t use ponte. As one of the suggested fabrics was boiled wool, I figured that this vintage woven wool would possibly work out alright. It came from Rathdowne Fabrics. I adore the colour and the weave. It’s suit weight rather than coat weight.

Style Arc Mason jacket in vintage wool from Rathdowne Fabrics edged in linen ribbon from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I sewed size 12 without alteration. Most seams were sewn on the overlocker. I flat felled the centre back neck seam, as it is exposed when the collar is turned back. Sadly my photographer failed to tell me that my collar was wonky for these pictures.

Style Arc Mason jacket in vintage wool from Rathdowne Fabrics edged in linen ribbon from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I bound the edges with linen ribbon from Darn Cheap Fabrics. I folded it in half lengthwise and ironed it flat, then encased the edge of the fabric in it and topstitched it in place. I had to fiddle a bit to get the corners neat, but it has all worked out okay. After consultation with Instagram I left off the pockets that are part of the design.  And yes, the wool wrinkles.  I had been wearing the jacket for a few hours before these photos were taken.

Style Arc Mason jacket in vintage wool from Rathdowne Fabrics edged in linen ribbon from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I wore it with a silk scarf that I “made” from a remnant I discovered in the Darn Cheap Fabrics remnant bin. All I did was pull a couple of threads from selvage to selvage to make sure that the edges were straight, then allowed them to fray a little. No sewing involved – the perfect lazy project. And silk feels so nice next to the skin – and it is surprisingly warm!

adult's clothing, sewing

Jalie 2918 – now with long sleeves!

I’ve been sewing Jalie 2918 for my husband again.

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Except this time I’ve sewn it with long sleeves.

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And in different prints.

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Although they are still from the same range of cotton jersey knits from Darn Cheap Fabrics.

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I wasn’t paying attention when I sewed that neckband. But in the end I patiently unpicked it and then sewed it back on the correct way around. I knew it would drive me nuts if I didn’t.

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All pattern and construction details are the same as in my previous post. And I’ve got another one cut out in the fishy fabric.

adult's clothing, Liesl + Co, sewing

Liesl & Co Bento tee – the long sleeved version

While I was making Maritime tops I thought it was time to give the Liesl & Co Bento tee pattern another go.  I’ve made it before with short sleeves.  This time I tried out the long sleeves.

Liesl + Co Bento tee in knit from Clear It

From the pattern page:

Description

This versatile knit top is so comfy and cozy it’ll quickly become your favorite! It can be made up as a sweatshirt with pockets that are perfect for storing all kinds of treasures (like movie tickets, small chocolates, or money for the cafe), or it can be sewn up as a T-shirt with cute cuffed sleeves. Simple to sew, this relaxed top can be constructed just the way you want it. View A includes in-seam pockets and short, three-quarter or long sleeves (your choice). View B is a hip-length T-shirt with short, cuffed sleeves.

Suggested Fabrics

Light- to medium- weight knit fabrics with at least 25% stretch like jersey, French terry, cotton fleece, velour, and waffle knit.

Like last time, I sewed straight size Medium without alteration.  I have decided actually prefer the proportions of the children’s version of the pattern, the Lunch Box tee, where the bottom band is narrower and placed lower down in comparison to the upper part of the tee.  You can see Clare’s here.

Liesl + Co Bento tee in knit from Clear It

The fabric is a knit from Clear It. I don’t think that it contains lycra. Once again it was great quality and easy to sew. Most construction was on the overlocker, and as always hems were secured with double sided tape before being topstitched with a twin needle.

Liesl + Co Bento tee in knit from Clear It

Overall verdict? I like it but I don’t love it, mainly because of the higher round neckline. But it layers well under other items and the variations in stripe direction are appealing. It’s staying in the wardrobe!

adult's clothing, Liesl + Co, sewing

Maritime knit tops

You’ve all heard me rave about Oliver + S patterns a thousand times.  Liesl & Co patterns are just as good.  Beautifully drafted, great instructions, well planned pdf patterns.  One of the most recent is the Maritime Knit top.  At first I thought “yet another simple knit top”?  Then I took another look at the line drawing and read the description.

This simple pull-on top is designed for knit fabrics with a little or a lot of stretch. View A features three-quarter-length sleeves while View B has short sleeves. Both styles include a bateau neck with topstitching detail and simple side vents, as well as a flattering fit. You’ll love the look, feel, and versatility of this shirt, which is also an essential wardrobe basic. Instructions include detailed information for adding a bust dart for a more flattering full-busted fit.

Suggested Fabrics

Suitable for knits of all sorts. Stable knits are especially good for this style. Suggested fabrics include jersey, double knit, thermal knit, and interlock.

Liesl + Co Maritime knit top in fabric from Darn Cheap Fabrics

For my first version I used a printed viscose/lycra knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics. I think that I cut the size 12. I did shorten it through the body to petite it, but otherwise made no changes. This is the 3/4 sleeve version. They’re more like elbow length, in my opinion.

Liesl + Co Maritime knit top in fabric from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I am extremely happy with the fit of this top. The neckline is finished with a facing, which I usually dubious about in knits. However, as this top fits over the head easily, and the facing is beautifully proportioned, it makes for a simpler neckline finish than a band yet one that looks much more professional – and is much more stable – than one that is simply turned and stitched. I still used the twin needle to secure the facing, as well as to secure hems.

Liesl + Co Maritime knit top in fabric from Darn Cheap Fabrics

It wasn’t long before I gave the pattern another try. I used fabric from Darn Cheap Fabrics again for my next version. This fabric is somewhat beefier. I think it’s a cotton/viscose/lycra blend. It was divine to sew and wore beautifully. Just the right weight.

Liesl + Co Maritime Knit top in rayon from Darn Cheap Fabrics

The neckline is a lovely width and depth. This is a top that can easily be worn casually or to work with a jacket and pants (which is how I wore it). The little vents at the side seams are a lovely touch and are easy to construct, and the dropped shoulder is in just the right place.

Liesl + Co Maritime Knit top in rayon from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Looking at these photos I wonder if I could slim the sleeves down a fraction. Actually, I have another two cut out ready to sew at Sewjourn, although I have extended the sleeves to full length for those ones using the Plantain pattern sleeve as a guide. Either way, this is another pattern that is going to get a considerable amount of use.

Liesl + Co Maritime Knit top in rayon from Darn Cheap Fabrics

By the way, the pants I’m wearing with my tops are Style Arc Misty (in stretch denim) in the top photos, and Style Arc Barb (in bengaline) in the bottom ones.

adult's clothing, sewing, tessuti patterns

Multiple Makes – Mandy and Misty and a May Me shrug

I’m on a casual clothes roll at the moment. I’m really enjoying sewing and wearing relatively simple, comfortable garments.

Tessuti Mandy Boat tee with Style Arc Misty jeans and May Me shrug

This is yet another Tessuti Mandy boat tee (one of my favourite patterns – I have three cut out to sew this weekend at Sewjourn) with a second pair of Style Arc Misty jeans (a new favourite pattern – I have two pairs cut out to sew this weekend at Sewjourn) with a shrug from the Japanese sewing book May Me Style Sewing.  As this is the fourth time I’ve sewn the shrug, I figure that it must be a favourite pattern too!

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I’ll start with the shrug. This changes in look and fit each time I make it. It is highly fabric dependent. The first one I made was in a woven wool, with bias binding used to finish the edges. The second was in a soft knit, with the edges turned and twin needled stitched.  The third was also in a knit, but one that was a bit firmer.  It had the edges turned and twin needled too.  This one is in vintage wool knit left over from the Simplicity 1366 jumper I made recently but is as yet unblogged.  I had to piece it a little to get the dimensions right.  I probably didn’t need to – it has turned out a little larger than the others.  Once again the edges are simply turned and stitched.

Tessuti Mandy Boat tee with Style Arc Misty jeans and May Me shrug

This is a terrific garment when you want an extra layer that is easy and snuggly but doesn’t flap around at the front. It also shows off the fabric that you are wearing underneath! Many of you will remember this fabric from Anna’s blog. In fact, you might even remember that she also made a Mandy Boat Tee from it.

Tessuti Mandy Boat tee

This is a single sized pattern, and I really like the way it fits me. I lengthened the sleeves from 3/4 to full length, and shortened the pattern an inch or so through the body. The fabric originally came from Clear It, and it’s superb quality. I’m not sure of the composition but I’m suspecting cotton/viscose/lycra. It’s quite substantial.

Tessuti Mandy Boat tee

As always, I stabilised the hems and neckline with double sided fusible tape before twin needle stitching them in place. My brand of choice for these tapes is Vliesofix – it can be difficult to source at times. My most recent lot came from Stitch 56. They come in a variety of widths.

Tessuti Mandy Boat tee with Style Arc Misty jeans

So, to the jeans. The fabric I used for this pair is a stretch denim from Rathdowne Fabrics in a fantastic olive colour. There wasn’t as much stretch in this denim as in the fabric I used for my first pair, so the fit is a little different. I really have to wiggle in to these ones, although they are comfortable to wear once they are on. I made sure to allow more waist and tummy room in the next pair that I cut out, as the fabric I’ve used for that pair don’t have a massive amount of stretch either.

Style Arc Misty jeans with Elle waistband in stretch denim from Rathdowne Fabrics

There are a couple of things that I did differently this time. Firstly, I eliminated the front mock pockets. Other than in the above photo, no-one is ever going to see the waistband. Secondly, I added a waistband and enclosed the elastic. I used the waistband from my Elle pants as a guide, but really for me the waistband just needs to be the same measurement as the top of the pant waist. I cut a long strip of fabric, seamed it, then folded it over wide elastic before attaching it to the pants top. Very, very straightforward.

Style Arc Misty jeans with Elle waistband in stretch denim from Rathdowne Fabrics

I used a triple stitch to highlight the topstitching on the pockets and back yoke, and around the front fake fly. Yes, they are a bit too tight around my torso, but I like the overall silhouette and the fit through the legs. Those wrinkles along the back of the leg mean that I can move and sit! The legs were shortened above and below the knee to accommodate my 158cm.

Tessuti Mandy Boat tee with Style Arc Misty jeans and May Me shrug

All of these garments are straightforward to make and don’t require a great deal of fitting adjustments. I feel comfortable and current wearing them, and you’ll be seeing other versions of them before too long!

adult's clothing, sewing

Style Arc Molly Knit Top

I’m trying out a few knit top styles at the moment.  I’ve had the Style Arc Molly knit top pattern in stash for a little while, and thought it would be a good one for work.  From the Style Arc website: The clever front detail along with the new banded neck gives this top a new twist on the stylish drape neck that has been a favourite for the past season. Easy to make and wear.

I used the same knit that I recently used for my Darn Cheap Fabrics seasonal challenge.  It sewed up very quickly and easily, with all construction being done on the overlocker.  As per usual hems were stabilised with double sided adhesive tape then top-stitched with a twin needle on the sewing machine.

Style Arc Molly top in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics.

Sadly I only have photos of it on Ada at the moment. I decided to leave off the little front pleat/twist thing. Suspected that all it would do would be to encourage the fabric to stick to my rolls instead of skim over them. I made size 12, my usual Style Arc top size, and chose the full length sleeve option.

Style Arc Molly top in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics.

I have worn this top, and was pleased with the fit. Not too loose, not too tight, and I always like a v-shaped neckline on me. The neckline is a cowl, but with a band to finish the edge instead of a facing. It seemed to work okay, with the band providing enough weight for it to drape nicely.  You can just glimpse the top in this outfit I wore to work.

What Im Wearing May 2015. 13 - Wednesday

This pattern will definitely get another outing or two.

children's clothing, kids clothing, sewing, tween

Burda 10/2014 #144 – tween tunic dress

This was an impulse sew.  I stumbled across Burda 10/2014 #144 on a sewing forum somewhere, and immediately thought of some scraps in my stash that were idling in my stash.

Burda 144 tween tunic (from October '14 issue)

Burda describe this as follows: Girl’s dress sewing pattern available for download. Available in various sizes and is produced by burda style magazine. The perfect dress for school because it’s as comfortable as it is cute. This sweater dress is made with cool contrasting panels and leather accents. An easy project with a little edge. Recommended Materials: Knits or jersey. Combine with imitation leather.

Burda 144 tween tunic (from October '14 issue)

Clare just fitted into the size range. The pattern started at size 140cm (they are sized by height). This pattern was originally published in the October 2014 issue of Burda magazine, but I bought the pdf via their website. If you do download one of their pattern remember that they don’t include seam allowances – make sure that you add them!

Burda 144 tween tunic (from October '14 issue)

I combined striped fabric from the Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 table (previously used for a Finlayson Sweater for my husband and for a shrug for me) with some grey ponte scraps and dark red (is it Marsala?) pleather. Clare thinks it hilarious that there is a fabric called pleather. I think that the pleather came from a fabric free-for-all at a sewing get-together I attended a while ago. I decided not to include the back zip, or to use a band to finish the neckline. Instead I used a strip of fabric sewn to the right side then turned over to the wrong side and secured, a bit like a facing.

Burda 144 tween tunic (from October '14 issue)

This was a fun garment to sew. I used the overlocker for most of it, but did hems with a zig zag stitch on the machine. The pleather wasn’t too difficult to work with. Let’s see how it washes! The same pattern pieces can be used to make dress #145 from the same issue in a woven fabric. I might give it a go at some stage too. A great tween pattern, and Clare definitely approves.  I think I’d like a grown up version.

Burda 144 tween tunic (from October '14 issue)

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