Day: 19 January 2015

adult's clothing, Pattern Fantastique, sewing

Aeolian the fourth

Yes, you read correctly.  My fourth Aeolian.  This one, like the last, is a dress.  But this time it’s a knit dress rather than a woven.  And a little shorter.

Pattern Fantastique Aeolian dress in knit from Clear It

I made a Medium, as before, and took quite a deep hem to bring the dress up to above the knee. The fabric is a striped knit from Clear It, so it was possibly from a Gorman or similar range some years ago. And yes, it’s striped. And stripes mean stripe matching.

Pattern Fantastique Aeolian dress in knit from Clear It

Now you will have to take my word for it that the stripes match along the side seams and sleeve seams. They do. But check out the matching across those curved raglan sleeves at the back! Go me! Now, let’s check out the stripe matching along the curved raglan sleeves at the front!

Pattern Fantastique Aeolian dress in knit from Clear It

Um, not so much. In fact, not at all. Although they are balanced and symmetrical, and they do line up nicely. The sleeves are cut on grain, so the hemlines are also straight and along a stripe. But it’s just not possible to match slightly curved raglan seams in a way that the stripes will match perfectly, not unless the seam is at an exact forty-five degree angle. (We know this for a fact now – Gabrielle got the graph paper out and checked it when I put one of these photos up on Instagram). And it’s the lovely shaping of the raglan sleeves and the overall drafting that makes this boxy tee/dress such a successful shape. So let’s just call those mismatched stripes at the front a design feature, in addition to the twin needle topstitching along the edge of the raglan sleeves.

And if you really do want matching stripes along the raglan seams of an Aeolian, I suggest that you match up the front ones rather than the back ones and use an exposed back facing to distract from the mismatched ones on the back, or else do the back in a solid. Or you can do what I am doing in my next Aeolian and use a double-faced stripe that has wider stripes on one side and narrower ones on the other…

adult's clothing, Liesl + Co, sewing

Liesl & Co Bento and Lekala 5063

Liesl and Co Bento tee in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics with Lekala 5063 skirt

I like a well cut tee, and one with little details that separate it a little from the stock standard tee. Mind you, I quite like a stock standard tee as well, but it didn’t take long to for the Liesl & Co Bento tee pattern to exert its pull on me. Check out the little pockets!

Liesl and Co Bento tee in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I know, I’m never going to actually USE those pockets. But I just like that they are there. And this design is perfect for stripes. They play so well along the sleeve bands, the lower front and back and even around the neckline.

Liesl and Co Bento tee in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics with Lekala 5063 skirt

The fabric is from Darn Cheap Fabrics, and yes it was from the infamous $2 table. Often you have to sort through it rather vigorously, but it almost always yields some gems like this. It’s lovely quality, quite stable yet has good stretch and recovery. The Bento tee pattern is also everything that you would expect from Liesl & Co. Impecably drafted, everything coming together exactly as it should, with subtle curve to the arm bands that make them sit perfectly and good fit overall. I sewed a straight size Medium without alteration.

Liesl and Co Bento tee in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

And on this one the side seam stripes do match up as perfectly as the shoulder seam ones, but you’ll have to take my word for it! There is only one thing wrong with this tee. After wearing, I have confirmed that I prefer a lower neckline. A bit more of a scoop or a Vee than this standard crew neckline. But that can be easily fixed, and isn’t the fault of the pattern, it’s just my preference. (I recently gave away my Marilla Walker Sailor Dress purely because of its high neckline – I just don’t like clothing lying across my throat. Funny, because I do like to wear scarves).

Lekala 5063 skirt

I made the skirt at November Sewjourn last year. It is Lekala 5063, and it turned out way too big for me. I have found it difficult to get Lekala skirts to fit me properly, as I find it difficult to know where the waist has been designed to sit and therefore which part of my torso I should measure. I solved the too big problem by taking two massive darts in the back, one either side of the centre back. The front seemed fine with the side seams at the sides; the extra width was at the back. Which probably tells me what I really already knew – most of my fat distribution is at the front of my body.  I have found that I am wearing the skirt a bit, despite it being too large, but I won’t use the pattern with these measurements again.  The fabric is a fairly heavy weight black denim from stash; I think it came from GJs originally.

Liesl and Co Bento tee in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

And guess what – I made two of the tees! The second one is a gift. Matchy matchy!