Day: 12 January 2015

adult's clothing, sewing

Eucalypt tank dress

Yes, I’m still blogging things I made in 2014.  I really feel an inner push to get these all over and done with, so that I can move into a fresh new year.  It’s weird how the mind works sometimes, I think!

Megan Nielsen Eucalypt tank dress in chambray

This is the Megan Nielsen Eucalypt woven tank dress. I was able to pick Anna‘s brain in regards to sizing and alterations, as she has used this pattern a few times, and cut a Medium with a small FBA and a high rounded shoulder adjustment.  I think I should have done a slightly larger FBA.  It is snug across the boobs.

Megan Nielsen Eucalypt tank dress in chambray

Looking at this photo of the back, I could also have done with shortening the back waist length. I don’t have a sway back – actually I have a relatively flat bottom – but my back waist length is shorter than my front. Beth of SunnyGal Studio has an excellent post on back waist length here. I suspect that many sewers (not all of course!) who talk about their “sway back” are actually people with a “short back waist”.  Considering that I had already altered the pattern in other ways it is a pity I didn’t think about the back waist while I was at it (especially because I do petite many of my patterns before cutting).  Clearly years of sewing experience don’t always mean that I think through all elements of a project before I start!

Megan Nielsen Eucalypt tank dress in chambray

There is a little bit of bra strap exposure and gaping at the side front of the armholes. I don’t like my straps to show. I know that plenty of people don’t care at all if their straps show, and they make a feature of it with contrasting colours etc, but I am in my mid-forties and prefer smooth beige bras and those straps are not especially visually appealing as far as I am concerned. I might add some shoulder strap keepers to ensure that they stay hidden.  The front armhole gaping reflects both the need for a slightly larger FBA and the front armhole being too large, but that is difficult to rectify without a bust dart.  Garments without darts are the hardest to fit smoothly, which is pretty obvious if you really think about it I suppose.  The fit across the upper back and back armholes is pretty good for a simple tank.

Megan Nielsen Eucalypt tank dress in chambray

Something I did think of early in the project was making contrast bias binding to finish the edges. I also decided to make the centre front seam a feature and topstitch down each side with topstitching thread. Such a simple touch, but one that I am very pleased with.

detail of binding and topstitching on Eucalypt dress

The chambray was beautiful to work with, and I love the curved hemline. So all in all this dress is one that I like and will wear.  It will be a great item for those super hot days we can get in Melbourne, but the pattern probably won’t get another outing from me. I quite like it, but there are others I like more on me. Simple patterns like this have nowhere to hide in terms of the need for fit alterations!

Megan Nielsen Eucalypt tank dress in chambray

patterns, sewing

do you Lutterloh?

Have you heard about, or worked with, Lutterloh patterns?  I first saw them in action at a Craft Fair a year or two ago.  It is a pattern drafting system, using downscaled patterns drawn on a small sheet of paper with a special ruler to enlarge them to the size that you want.  A friend of mine recently returned from a holiday where she spotted three copies of the 1972 version of the Lutterloh system in a op shop – and she kindly brought one back for me as well as one for herself (and the third copy for another sewing friend).

from (C) 1972 Lutterloh manual

This folder is rather small – about A5 size – but contains hundreds of patterns! Around 300, I think!

from (C) 1972 Lutterloh manual

The above text states: A “teach-yoursel” manual enabling people of all ages to learn a method for designing and cutting out patterns for all types of garments in all sizes for men, women and children. The Lutterloh Method is based on a system of proportions of the human body and teaches people in a short time to make accurate patterns whatever the fashion.

Now I have to say, the actual sewing instructions are fairly minimal. I feel that there is a fair bit of knowledge that is assumed. That said, I am very keen to give this a try. I imagine that I would have my usual fitting adjustments to make – after all, my proportions aren’t “perfect” – but it would be a fun experiment. It was worth the purchase purely for the illustrations if nothing else! I thought I’d share a few of my favourites – be warned, lots of photos ahead!

from (C) 1972 Lutterloh manual

from (C) 1972 Lutterloh manual

from (C) 1972 Lutterloh manual

from (C) 1972 Lutterloh manual

from (C) 1972 Lutterloh manual

from (C) 1972 Lutterloh manual

from (C) 1972 Lutterloh manual

from (C) 1972 Lutterloh manual

from (C) 1972 Lutterloh manual

from (C) 1972 Lutterloh manual

from (C) 1972 Lutterloh manual

Apparently Lutterloh started in 1935, and is still available in over 40 countries and translated in 15 different languages. The New Zealand website is here (I think they service Australia as well) and you can google for others.  Seasonal supplements are published four times each year and there are special volumes available for children, men, and fuller figures.

So, do you Lutterloh?  I’d love to hear your experiences of the system – or even if you also have vintage editions in your pattern collections!