“For God loved the world so much that he gave his only Son, so that everyone who believes in him may not die but have eternal life.”
To those of you who celebrate, Merry Christmas! And to those of you who don’t, best wishes for a wonderful holiday and festive season. Much love from my family to yours.
Let’s see if I can remember the details of sewing this outfit – it was way back in September that it was sewn!
The pattern is the Oliver + S Pinwheel Tunic and Slip. The pattern description from the website is as follows: The two pieces in this versatile outfit can be worn together or individually. The short-sleeved, bias-trimmed tunic has a keyhole back-neck opening with ribbon ties. The narrow-strapped slip dress looks adorable as a simple summer dress or as a nightgown. Both pieces feature a bias-trimmed flounce that overlaps at the inverted V-shaped front bottom edge. Worn together, the pair makes a spectacular flouncy dress. Suggested Fabrics: Light- to medium-weight woven fabrics like quilting cotton, shirting, poplin, broadcloth, lawn, voile, batiste, rayon, and linen.
http://oliverands.com/images/product/OLV-OS039PW/OLV-OS039PW_Detail.jpg
The fabric came from Spotlight, and is a woven rayon. The print is from the Denyse Schmidt Flea Market Fancy line – apparently there was some sort of collaboration with whoever supplies Spotlight with fabric to translate some of the quilting fabric designs to garment fabric. It has a beautiful soft handle. I made bias binding for the edges from silk/cotton from Darn Cheap Fabrics.
Size wise I think that I sewed size 7, and it’s still fairly roomy. Stella is pretty skinny for her age, but almost average height, but I usually find that Oliver + S patterns appear to be cut more on the slender side than the wider. Not in this case! Rather than using ribbon to tie the back of the tunic closed, I simply extended the neck bias binding into ties. Easy peasy! By the way, this slip and tunic requires HEAPS of bias binding – make certain that you make plenty!
This wasn’t a difficult outfit to sew. You do need to pay attention to reinforcing the centre front point where the flounce attaches, and take your time a little to ensure that everything fits together nicely. I used my overlocker for much of the construction, but basted some pieces by machine.
Stella wore this outfit to her cousin’s wedding in September and was very happy in it. Stella is quite sensitive to textures and irritations and a soft fabric like viscose is perfect for her (she will absolutely not wear any clothing that she perceives as annoying in any way). The slip slips on over her head (as expected!) and the tunic is also easy to get into. The soft silk/cotton bias binding around the edges, combined with a ribbon tie rather than a hard button, also meets with her approval. I aim to please!
This is another pattern repeat. I last sewed the Simple Tunic from the book Bold and Beautiful Easy Sew Clothes back in early 2014. I found that I wore it fairly regularly, especially once the weather got hot, so decided to sew another before our Queensland/NSW trip in September.
Once again I sewed the smallest size – which as you can see is still very roomy – in linen. This is an enjoyable garment to sew. Seams are topstitched after overlocking, and the hems and neck facing are topstitched in place as well. 
There’s not much to say about it – it definitely is simple! If you are tall you might want to consider lengthening the top a little, as the front is shorter than the back and curves up quite high in the centre. As always, it just depends on what look you are after.
I have one of the jackets from the book cut out at the moment that I hope to sew over the summer break. More detail about the book is in my earlier blog post.
Laura asked about the black and white striped top that I was wearing in one of my Sewvember photos. This is it!
It is the Tessuti Mandy boat tee (free single sized pattern) sewn pretty much as per the pattern. The was a remnant from Darn Cheap Fabrics, and I had just enough to squeeze out the top.
This pattern is my go-to for when I want a quick but satisfying sewing experience that I know I will wear. I find that the Mandy tee works beautifully in Melbourne’s weather, where it is often between seasons. Construction was almost all on the overlocker. The neckline is finished by turning it to the inside and topstitching it in place before the shoulder seams are sewn. I use a twin needle for the topstitching, which I also use to secure the bottom and sleeve hems. All are secured with Vliesofix tape before stitching.
The skirt is the Colette Mabel. Like the top, this is a quick and satisfying garment to make, and always gives me the results that I am after. I sewed the longer version of the skirt, with panelled front and back centre kick pleat.
Construction was mostly on the overlocker for this as well. The fabric is stretch denim from M. Recht. I couldn’t resist the opportunity to use the selvedges as a detail, and inserted them into the side front panel seams, then topstitched them down. The hem is simply secured with Vliesofix tape and not even stitched in place. Sometimes stitching across the grain with fabrics that contain lycra can result in a bit of a wobble. I decided not to risk it and take the easy way out!
So here I am with a basic everyday outfit that is easy to wear. Each item works with other garments from my wardrobe, which is also handy! Both were sewn at Sewjourn in November. Now I’m into summer dresses!
Tessuti have released a few new patterns over the past month or so. As most of you are aware, I really like their patterns. They generally work quite well for my body shape, and the Kate top is no exception.
Tessuti describe this as follows: this cropped, boxy sleeveless top comes with two neckline variations, a wide hemline with side split feature and exposed neckline and armhole binding. View A features a scooped neckline. View B features a higher neckline with keyhole back opening plus button rouleau loop. This style is the perfect wardrobe staple and can be worn underneath jackets and cardigans or on its own during the warmer months. Suitable fabrics for the Kate Top include light to medium weight linens or linen blends, cottons, viscose and silks.
I sewed view A with the scooped neckline, but most of the Kate tops that have popped up on Instagram and the Internet have been view B with the higher neckline. I used a rayon batik sarong that I brought back from Bali. This top has many happy memories for me! I cut and sewed size Medium, which corresponded best with my bust measurement and is my usual size in Tessuti patterns.
This is a very straightforward garment to make. Bust darts, shoulder seams, side seams with a little more time spent on the side vents to ensure that they are even and nicely mitred, then bias binding for the armholes and neck opening. I made my own binding from the same fabric as the rest of the top and applied it to the wrong side like a facing, then turning to the right side and topstitching.
I am quite short at 158 cm (5’2″) and think that this top is a good length on me. You might want to consider that if you are taller, but as with most clothing it really depends on the look that you are after. The pattern does describe it as cropped. When I look at some of the photos the armhole appears a little lower than I would prefer, but it sits close to the body and doesn’t expose my bra.
This should be a nice cool top for the heat that will be coming over the next few months. I tend to wear dresses more than separates once the weather warms up, but it’s still nice to have a few tops in the wardrobe. I am planning to sew view B in some Merchant and Mills linen that I recently purchased, maybe with raw bindings and/or some hand-stitching to highlight. Maybe….
Sometimes I feel as though no matter how many times I type it, I will never remember how to spell “asymmetrical” correctly. I always get that wriggly red line the first time I try – and I pride myself of being able to spell quite well! We all have a mental block about something, I suppose.
So, it’s another repeat. This is the fourth time that I have sewed the Asymmetrical Drape Top for Clare. The pattern is by Everything Your Mama Made, who design patterns for women and children. Many of the styles are fairly simple and go right through from child to tween to adult sizes.
I sewed Clare’s top in size 8 as per her hip measurement. It’s a very loose style. The fabric came from Clear It, and feels like a viscose/lycra. I adore those doggies! This is SUCH a fast and easy garment to sew. Same pattern piece for the front and back, with the front neckline cut lower, band for the hips and neck, and sleeve edges just turned and hemmed. I used a zig-zag stitch on the machine to secure the neckband after stitching it on, and to hem the sleeves, but all other construction was on the overlocker. I don’t really follow instructions much for this type of garment; it’s pretty self explanatory.
This was a great palate cleanser garment between other more complex ones, and Clare was also very happy about it! Early renditions of the pattern are here and here. Fabric selection is key with this top – it really needs to be soft and super drapey. Viscose knit is ideal.
I don’t think I’ve ever gone this long between blog posts. I have still been sewing, and as a result have plenty of blog posts to write, but don’t seem to have found the motivation to actually get them out of my head and onto the internet. However, I did participate in #bpSewvember over on Instagram, which was a terrific sewing-themed meme run by the lovely Amanda of Bimble and Pimble. Each day had a word to prompt a photo. I thought that those of you who don’t follow me on Instagram might be interested in seeing the photos that I took for each day. So this will be a very photo-heavy blog post! I’m leaving it to you to figure out why I took each photo for each prompt.
1. Three facts.
2. Like a boss.
3. Inside.
4. Inspiration.
5. WiP.
6. Slow or Fast.
7. Stash.
8. Why sew? 
9. Game changer.
10. View.
11. Tools.
12. Community.
13. Style.
14. Help!
15. Heirloom.
16. UFO.
17. Print or plain.
18. Dream project.
19. Workhorse.
20. Tried and true.
21. Best part.
22. The vault.
23. Essentials.
24. Skill up.
25. Oh no!
26. Best make.
27. Detail.
28. Sewing space. (this is a short video)
29. Confession.
30. Next up.
Huge thanks go to Amanda for running the meme – I didn’t originally intend to take part but really enjoyed the entire month. While the rest of life kept me very busy I could still participate in my favourite hobby – sewing.
Now it’s time for me to get onto some of those well overdue blog posts!
Many regular readers will know by now that Emma and I have a quarterly seasonal challenge where we each use the same fabric from Darn Cheap Fabrics to make a garment, then reveal it on the same day. I always look forward to seeing what Emma has come up with! For Spring we chose a vibrantly printed viscose from Darn Cheap Fabrics.
Unfortunately many of these photos haven’t come out well; I think that there was sunlight glaring off the phone when Clare was taking them, but beggars can’t be choosers and these are all I am likely to have. The pattern is the Sway dress by Papercut Patterns, in the longer length but without the waist tie.
This is the first time that I have used Papercut Patterns – they recently had a sale which was finally enough to make me hit the pdf pattern buy button. The website description of the pattern is as follows: The classic sway dress every wardrobe needs. Loose fitting and gorgeously flowing, make it as the short variation or long variation with waist tie. It has a centre front and back seam with a scooped and V neck so you can mix up the look by wearing either neck options to the front or back. It also features side seam pockets.
I left out the side seam pockets. I usually include them if I am sewing pants, but for dresses I only include pockets that are a feature of some kind. Those that are hidden in the side seams generally won’t be used. The neckline and armholes are faced with a combined facing applied “burrito” style before closing the side seams. This works beautifully and ensures there is no visible stitching around the neckline or armholes.
I left this dress hanging on Ada, my dress form, for over a week, and boy did those bias side seam areas drop! I intended to level out the bottom and cut and hem it around knee length, but after discussion with Clare and one of her friends one day decided to leave the hem shorter in the centres and longer at the sides as a design feature. The girls both thought that it looked “cool” and I figured that if I’m unhappy with it I can easily shorten and level it later. I finished the hemline with bias tape made from the same fabric.
I sewed this as size Medium, since the only measurement that really mattered was the bust measurement. This gave me just enough ease, and kept the neckline and armholes fitting close to the body. The armholes are heading toward the low side, but I found that they didn’t expose any of my bra and stayed next to the skin. One of the lovely things about this dress is that you can wear it either way around, so can have the V or the scoop at the front or at the back. The V neck didn’t expose my bra at the back either, so overall I was pretty happy with the pattern drafting.
This dress does swish and sway beautifully as you move. I adore the colours in the print, and like most viscose it is very soft and comfortable to wear.
Now I just need to see what Emma has made!
Another pattern repeat – the Crafty Mamas Cherish dress.
This is a pattern that I’ve used a few times and always have success with. Unfortunately, this time is was almost unsuccessful! As well as having sewn it for myself, I’ve sewn it for my mum in a different size and length. I intended to sew a maxi this time, but accidentally grabbed the wrong size and length pattern and started cutting. When I realised it was already too late – I had cut the dress shorter than maxi length. It was easy enough to cut the rest of the sizing down to fit me, but there was nothing to be done about the length. I balled up the fabric and tossed it into a corner – something that I rarely do!
So after I got back from Bali I pulled the dress pieces out and sewed them up. After trying on the dress at the length it had been cut out at, I decided to add a ruffle to the bottom to lengthen it to maxi. I cut two strips four and a half inches wide across the entire width of the pattern, then gathered it gently and stitched it with a zig zag around the outside of the dress hem. I left the ruffle edges raw. The fabric is one of those very stretchy and slinky stretch polyester jerseys and I didn’t want too much weight in the hemline. I think that the ruffle worked a treat.
I also like the gentle gathers that turn the neckline from a wide scoop into a rounded v-shape and provide room for bust shaping. This is a very forgiving style of dress and mostly skims over my bulges quite nicely.
The neckline and armholes are finished with simple circular bands that are just the right size to ensure the edges sit closely to the body. This is a very easy dress to wear. The fabric came from the Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 table – it’s not really my best colours but I know I’ll wear it anyway.
My other versions of this dress are here and here and here. It can be made at any length from tunic length through to maxi, and is a quick and satisfying sew, pretty much all on the overlocker.
I made myself a visor. And it was REALLY difficult to photograph well. I think all hats are hard to photograph for review purposes, but I found this one harder than usual. So in addition to my photos, I suggest a google image search to see others that have been made, because it’s a terrific visor. There is a detailed review by Anna here and one by Rachel here.
I was a pattern tester for this visor, which is the Lucent Visor from Pattern Fantastique. I only pattern test occasionally, and only if I like the pattern, it’s a style I would wear, and if the designer provides me with any notions that are difficult to find. Nita-Jane did all of those things, and she is a qualified and experienced pattern maker, so I wasn’t surprised that this visor worked out as well as it did. During the testing phase there was only one size of visor; the released pattern has three brim sizes from small to large. Next time I make it I will do a small as I have a really little head (and often the largest of kids sized hats will fit my head just fine). This was the large brim size, and proportionately it is too big for me. That’s why patterns get tested!
The pattern description from the website is as follows:
DESIGN
With extra curves and a deep brim, the shaping turns this sports hat in to a piece of sculpted millinery. Perfect for outdoor cocktails or a morning run. Make it in light denims to luxe silks. The level of statement is up to you.
The Lucent Visor is made with an internal structure keeps hat flexible but firm so it can re-emerge from your bag in shape.
Instructions include a helpful description on notions required and clear steps with photos and illustrations.
SKILL LEVEL
Intermediate sewing skills.
SIZING
Pattern includes three brim sizes from small to large. So you can choose how bold to go.
The hat band is elasticised and custom sized in construction, fitting most, from kids up to a 62 cm crown.
I used a printed cotton from stash (originally from Spotlight?) for the visor. It also needs good quality interfacing (Nita-Jane suggests buckram), elastic for the back band, and jewellery wire and crimps to help the brim keep that wonderful curved edge. I took it slowly when sewing the binding around the edge, and when inserting the jewellery wire. Overall I think this is a great pattern and a little bit different to the usual if you are looking for something to keep the sun off. Obviously it won’t keep the sun off your neck, as per the above photo, but it will do the job beautifully for your face!
The pattern is a pdf, with plenty of detail in the instructions. I really should have found someone with a larger head than mine to model this…Mum, do you need a visor?
