adult's clothing, sewing

McCalls 6844

McCalls 6844 was released a couple of years ago, and was one of Pattern Review’s Best Patterns of 2013.  When I last checked there were over 70 reviews of this pattern on Pattern Review, so I assume that there are countless versions that have been made!  I was a little slower on the uptake than most.  There are a few variations of the pattern in terms of length, whether to include a peplum, and whether to have a straight or high-low hemline.

I threw caution to the wind and decided on view C, with both a peplum and a high-low hemline.  I was dubious about whether I would like this style on me, but I don’t really want to restrict myself to one silhouette in my wardrobe either.  So, the finished jacket!

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This was actually really easy to make. I petite-ed the pattern, shortening it through the body above the waist. I used size Medium throughout. The fabric is from Darn Cheap Fabrics, and is a fairly thick knit jacquard. It was most definitely NOT on the $2 table.  How do they make these knit jacquards?  I’d love a trip to a factory to find out.

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Despite being designed for a knit, the pattern pieces include 5/8″ seam allowances. This actually worked well for this spongy knit, as I sewed it on the machine then pressed seam allowances open. I did use the overlocker to construct and finish some seams, but mainly this was sewn on the machine. I used my twin needle for hems, including the peplum hem after just turning the edges once to the inside and securing them with Vliesofix tape.

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The collar is the same pattern piece, cut twice. With a fabric of this thickness, turn of cloth became a problem. You can see it in the above photo, along the seamline where the collar pieces are joined. If I made this jacket again (and I might well do that) I would shave quarter of an inch or so off the under collar piece. As a fix for this jacket I topstitched along the collar edge, rolling the seamline to the correct place as I went.

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The shoulders could be a little narrower, and I may yet to some sneaky catch-stitching under the collar where it meets the peplum and down to the bottom hem to keep it sitting nicely. But these photos were taken after a full day at work, and I think that it’s looking pretty good! I received some unsolicited compliments on it from random people at work, which was nice, and it met my essential criteria of being comfortable. I can see why this pattern is so popular!

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I was rather impressed that it coordinated with one of my Mabel skirts so beautifully.  The top is a Renfrew that needs to be retired due to pilling.  Black is such a harsh colour on me, but I will still need to replace this top.  Maybe with a long-sleeved Tessuti Lola – the scoop neck will keep that black away from my face.  What other coloured tops would work under the jacket?