Simplicity 1733 was bought for the dress.  But instead, I’ve made the jacket!  Who’d have thought it!

Since the weather turned cold I’ve been re-evaluated what is in my very crowded wardrobe. Realistically, I don’t “need” anything – I have plenty of clothes. But sewing is my hobby, it’s the thing that I do, and I really enjoy making garments for myself. I’m planning on another wardrobe purge soon, and in the meantime I’m focusing on sewing the simple knit items that are the clothes I reach for the most. The white with black stripe viscose/spandex jersey has been in stash for a while – it was originally from the Darn Cheap Fabrics discount table – and I’ve made a tunic in it before that has seen quite a lot of wear. As it turns out, this fabric is an excellent match for this jacket pattern.

I always enjoy sewing raglan sleeves, and although I couldn’t get all the stripes to match up they are still well aligned. They do match up along all other seamlines!  The back collar band is nice and high around the neck. At the front the band doesn’t attach all the way to the bottom hem, resulting in a pleasing geometric feature when it does join. The sleeves are bracelet length, as in the pattern envelope photo, although they are described as “long” in the pattern description.

Although this won’t be warm enough for the middle of winter, it will make a great extra layer through autumn and spring – and for the office heating! This is a bit of a “sleeper” pattern that I couldn’t find many examples of on the internet but would highly recommend.  It would work nicely in a wool jersey and be very warm and snuggly.

And I do still plan on making the dress from this pattern.  Just wish that I still had some of that fabric left!

Butterick 5954 was a pattern that was pretty much destined to enter my stash.  Luckily it was also destined to be used sooner rather than later!  I saw a few versions floating around the blogosphere, and was inspired.

Since we are heading straight into winter at the moment, I decided on the long sleeved version. And I love the cross over front! This pattern does take a ton of fabric. There is a seam through the centre back where a considerable amount of flare is added, and the front pieces flare out as well. I used a knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics, which worked out to be the perfect fabric for this style.

I cut and sewed the size Medium. I did however remember to “petite” the pattern by folding out the full amount at the “shorten/lengthen” here marking. Otherwise I didn’t make any changes. This view of the pattern has you sew the side seams before sewing the shoulder seams, so that you can sew that long hem down one front across the bottom and up the other front in one long hem. I used Vlieofix to stabilise the hem before twin needling it into place. After that the construction was fairly straightforward and mostly done on the overlocker.

The cowl collar sits beautifully because it is shaped. I’ve sewn a few garments with cowl collars lately, and am always intrigued to sew how the collar is drafted. There is more variety in the shaping of a cowl collar than you would think, and it definitely makes a difference to the ease of wearing. I recently made a top (as yet unblogged) where the cowl collar is a simple rectangle, and it definitely does not sit as well and is not as easy to wear as the other tops I have with shaped cowls. Something for me to file away for future reference!

And speaking of the flare inherent in the design of this top – check out how it twirls!

I have decided to spare you the photo of the front opening almost right up, exposing my stomach completely. A point to remember if you are planning on making this version – consider sewing the overlap down, or make sure that you wear a camisole underneath on a windy day!

I have a long-sleeved version of view B cut out ready to sew, in a glorious soft golden-mustard jersey. One of those colours that probably isn’t the most flattering on me but a colour that I adore. Looking forward to making it soon!

I did make a Renfrew that worked.  And another pair of Elle pants.

I also used my overlocker to make a rolled hem around the edges of some beautiful Collette Dinnigan silk chiffon that I bought from Rathdowne Fabrics recently – they are clearing the last of her fabrics since she closed down.  There were some absolutely exquisite items there, as you would imagine, but I stuck with things that I knew I would actually be able to incorporate into my life.  Which excluded sequinned and embroidered lace and chiffon, unfortunately.  I was planning on doing a beautiful narrow double fold hem around the edges of this silk or a hand-rolled hem. Then I realised that I was better off hemming quickly on the overlocker so that I can actually wear it rather than leave it languishing until I get around to doing the nicer hem (which I will still do; this fabric deserves it). Don’t start counting down how long it takes me to do it though. In the meantime, the overlocked rolled hem looks quite okay, and gives nice colour definition to the scarf edges. I need to learn some new tying techniques for large silk scarves – off to google for help with that!

The Elle pants were made from exactly the same pattern as my last pair, but due to the fabric choice the fit is much larger. It is rather fascinating how changing a fabric changes fit!

The fabric is a very beefy, rather spongy, vibrant fuschia knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics. I just couldn’t resist the colour. After consultation with some sewing buddies I chose to sew these with the “ribbed” side as the outer side. The “ribs” run across the grain, with interesting results during the construction process as the legs got longer and longer. The waist comes up higher than usual for this pattern too!

The Renfrew is sewn from a striped cotton/spandex knit that I bought at GJs. It makes for a great basic that will fit easily under other layers. I have made a few things with dropped armholes or dolman sleeves lately, and as much as I love them, it’s harder to find garments that fit comfortably over them. The Renfrew is a great top in this regard with the higher armhole and more fitted sleeve. And I really do love that cowl – even in the thicker fabric.  And I am definitely feeling an attraction to stripes at the moment, despite the little bit of extra time and attention that it needed to match them.

I should have rearranged the cowl after taking off the scarf for that photo! I shortened the sleeves a little before attaching the cuffs. My Renfrew is a combination of about three sizes to better accommodate my measurements. I just grade across from one to the other.

It still clings a bit to the roll between the bottom of my bra and the waist of the pants. Possibly should have pulled it down a bit! I do enjoy sewing this entirely on the overlocker – because of the band at the bottom, the cuffs and the cowl, I don’t need to touch my machine at all when I make this. Unless I want to topstitch anywhere, but I don’t really need to.

I’m definitely on a getting ready for winter knit sewing binge!  Oh, Melinda asked about the fabric I used in my last pair of Elle pants.  Yes, the Elle is designed for a stretch woven, and I have made a couple of pairs from the recommended fabric type.  However, most of my Elle pants have been made from ponte or other similar double knits with plenty of stretch.  I just find them more comfortable – especially around that thick waist of mine.  Good question Melinda!

I’ve been making StyleARC Elle pants again.  They really are my staple bottom garment throughout the cooler seasons.

I can get away with these in a size 10, due to the combination of stretch fabric, slim styled legs, and an elasticised waistband. Love my pull-on pants!  I shorten them in two places, about an inch and quarter above the knee and the same below the knee, to allow for my 158cm height.

They really do sit on that bridge between pants and leggings, I think. But they’re too thick and a bit too loose to be leggings – and they do have side seams! I love this pattern and am rapidly losing count of how often I have used it. Actually, I made another pair after this one.

The fabric is a lightweight double knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics. It’s fun to have a little print on my legs!

Sometimes you can make something with a tried and true pattern and it still doesn’t work.  For example, a recent Renfrew.

At first glance you notice those fantastic stripes and the texture.  Then you realise that it is big.  Way too big for a semi-fitted top.  And what you don’t know is that it is also itchy and feels awful next to the skin.

This sweater knit was on the Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 per metre table, and I bought it just to play with.  Due to the sweater knit texture, it was very hard to cut out accurately, despite using a pattern that I have used many times before.  Hence it being too big. But the main problem is that I can’t wear it as a next-to-skin layer.  The fabric would work in a coat or another overlayer, but not in a Renfrew for me.  Off to the oppy with this one….