I’ve mentioned before that back in around 1990 I did a Knitwit course where I learned to sew knit fabrics.  Actually, the knit fabrics that were available then were quite different to the knits that are available now.  Nowadays many knits (but not all) have a fair percentage of lycra or spandex.  Back then they were all cotton or poly/cotton, either jersey or sweatshirting or double knits.  Oh, let’s not forget the nylon knits – I did a short course in sewing lingerie at Knitwit as well.  So there was a variety, but now there is even more variety!  But I digress.  The point of mentioning the course is that I bought a number of the Knitwit patterns while doing it.  One pattern that I made a few times was a bodysuit pattern.  Remember those back in the late 80s and early 90s?  The attached underpants-style section kept your top nicely tucked in to your high waisted jeans/pants/skirts.

I really liked that bodysuit. It had a lovely cross-over tucked front. So I decided to pull it out of my archives, whack a half-circle skirt from another Knitwit pattern onto it, and make it a dress. What was 1990 is now 2013!

So, the top of the dress is Knitwit pattern 500 crossover dress and bodysuit, and the skirt Knitwit pattern 2400 gored and circular skirts. I used the full circle skirt pattern. I cut size 14 in both the top and the skirt (the top was still traced at size 14 from when I’d made it in 1990). The belt is copied from a mesop belt that I own.

Not surprisingly considering that this was a 1990 design, this dress really needs raglan shoulder pads in it to sit nicely. Those dropped shoulders are typical of their time too!

The fabric came from Rathdowne Fabrics. It has a slight sheen and some texture to it. It was surprisingly easy to cut and to sew. The two rings for the belt are from You Sew Girl. It was super easy to make. Twice the finished width (plus seam allowances) with the length of the belt the full width of the fabric. Thread through two large rings and sew the end down with some left hanging, then to wear it thread through the both the rings from the other end, tucking the fabric back through one to secure it. That is as clear as mud but hopefully you can tell what I mean from the photo. I don’t usually wear belted dresses, but this one needed it, and since it is all in the same fabric I reckon that it works.

That circle skirt twirls! I finished the sleeve hems with a zig-zag, but left the skirt hem raw (sacrilege!) – it hangs nicely left as it is, and doesn’t fray. Yes, it’s certainly more than reminiscent of 1990, but I am very happy to be wearing it today.  Old Knitwit patterns from this series often pop up at op-shops if you are interested.  They are great stretch fabric basics, even now.

My husband’s comments on this dress were along the lines of “yes, Obi-wan….”

This is my second Lovely Layers top.  I whipped this one up when I was at Sewjourn a little over a month ago.  See, that is how far behind I am with blogging finished makes!  This one was quick to make because I’d done it before, and it was already cut out.

These really aren’t the right pants to wear with it, but I just needed to get those photos taken! The fabric is a poly/spandex from Spotlight – I picked it up on their bargain table for around $2 per metre. The print has little greyhounds (or similar) on it. A weird mix of retro and medieval.

This is a size Large. I’m not completely certain what length I cut it – I think that it is somewhere between the two lengths printed on the pattern. The longest length, particularly in larger sizes, won’t actually fit across the width of many fabrics. But I just cut the length to where it will fit, and that has worked out fine (the bottom of the pattern piece is a straight line, so it’s very straightforward). I like the way that the side points hang down on me. One of my friends with a pear-shaped figure (rather than my apple) found that it looked more flattering on her with the sides tied into a knot. So that is another styling option!  I used the scoop neckline.  There is also the option of a V, a higher round neckline, or a hood.  And you can alter the sleeve length, or leave the sleeves off completely.

I don’t use the pattern piece for the neckband. I just cut a long strip to the with that I like, and use the technique of sewing up one shoulder seam first, then applying the neckband while stretching it. I have found that over time I have developed a bit of a feel for how much to stretch fabrics depending on their fibre type and stretch percentage. I don’t always get it exactly right, but generally it works well. For a neckband as wide as this one, it needs quite a lot of stretch to make the inner curve lie flat against the body. Once the neckband is attached, I pin and stitch the other should, making sure that I line up the seams and edges exactly. I usually do this on my normal sewing machine for the extra control, then overlock it (whereas the neckband application is done on the overlocker). I finished all the hems with a small zig-zag after fusing them into place – my current favourite hem treatment for many knits.

Look, up in the sky! It’s the winter solstice! Beam me up!

I was a little late to jump on the Grainline Moss Mini bandwagon, but I’m glad that I did.  I’ll give you the description as per the pattern website.  This is a semi-fitted skirt that sits slightly below the natural waist and works up well in a variety of fabrics, from denim to wool to corduroy and many fabrics in-between. Skirt features a fly front and button closure as well as a yoke at the back. If mini isn’t quite your style, add the hem band to create the longer silhouette of View B or use the hem band to get a little fancy.

I chose the longer length, easily done by adding the band. The fabric is a stretch denim that was in stash. No idea where it came from originally – maybe the remnant table at GJs? It was a terrific match for this pattern. Rather than using the denim for facings and pocket linings, I chose a slightly polished cotton, also in stash (maybe originally from Spotlight?). I love that hidden pop of red.

As always, my first make of a pattern is really a muslin, but one that I usually anticipate will be wearable. I measured myself before deciding what size to cut, and discovered that my waist measured a size 16 in this pattern and my hips a size 12. Oh great. Luckily for me I had googled the pattern before cutting it out, and I was aware of the sizes that others had made it up in. Thank you for your reviews, helpful bloggers!  I decided to cut a straight 12 since the skirt is actually designed to sit below the waist, not on it. I also remembered to try it on a number of times throughout the construction process, particularly before adding the hem band or waistband. In the end I took it in at both side seams and down the centre back seam, probably reducing the size to around an 8.

You can see just how much I’ve taken that side seam in – it’s the inside line of stitching. The back was the same. The fly facing and zip insertion was a little different to what I am used to doing. I stitched the fly facing pieces right sides together and turned them as per one of the options in the instructions, but the next time I made it I will overlock them wrong sides together to reduce bulk and keep them a better size to be caught in the fly topstitching later on.

One of the details that I particularly like in this skirt are the pockets. They are drafted so that they come right across to the centre front, creating a pocket stay and an extra layer of firmer fabric exactly where I need it! Instant tummy reduction. Well, a bit of tummy support, anyway. You can see it in this inside out photo.

Another thing about the pockets – the opening is cut on the bias, so like all bias cuts it will stretch out if isn’t stabilised properly. I used Freudenberg Vilene stabilising tape along the seam lines of both the pocket and the facing, and they worked a treat. I faced the hem band with the print fabric, and topstitched it down with a triple stitch both as a detail and to secure it.

The topstitching around the top of the hem band was echoed in topstitching beside the centre front seam and above the back yoke.

Rather than handstitching or topstitching the waistband facing in place, I chose to stitch in the ditch. You really can’t see it – the stitches sank right into the seam of the stretch denim. And I love the vintage button that I found in stash. You’ll never see it – because I wear tops over my skirts, not tucked in – but I know that it is there!

So, what about the fit? As I said earlier, I took it in quite a lot compared to the suggested size for my measurements (and I am at my “upper” weight at the moment, not my lower one). I’m really nowhere near a size 8, but that’s the size that worked. The curved waistband sits beautifully below my waist as it dips down at the centre front, and the skirt also fits well through the hips. The only problem, once I saw this photo, is that little bulging fold of fabric at the back yoke. I was certain that it hadn’t been there when I tried the skirt on earlier!

It looks like a classic situation of needing a sway back alteration, doesn’t it? But a sway back alteration is something that I really haven’t needed to do in the past. I have a fairly flat bum, so there’s not much of a curve differential. Then – a lightbulb moment! In these photos, I am wearing heels. Fairly high heels, at least for me (they’re as high as I can cope with). Which of course, alter my posture considerably – and make my bum stick out a bit more than usual.

When I swapped into flat shoes, the excess fabric was gone. So it looks as though I need to either remember to wear flats with this skirt, or to just wear a top over it if I am wearing heels.

Now that I take another look at these photos, there is a bit of a weird bulge or pull at the bottom of the zip. I suspect that it is a function of the zip ending and seam starting at the same point as my stomach curve ends. In normal wear, it isn’t noticeable. Maybe that is due to the stretch in the fabric? Anyway, I’m actually very happy with my wearable muslin, and have already worn it a few times.

I was tossing up making myself a Victory Patterns Lola dress to wear tomorrow (for my birthday!) but I think that it’s getting too late at night to make a start on it now. Better off to go to bed and have some beauty sleep before an early start at the gym – to be followed by coffee, chat, and fun! Birthdays are great – even when the age that you are turning surprises you somewhat.

Now my blog posts are all out of sync and will be non-sequential.  I still haven’t blogged everything that I made at Sewjourn (now almost a month ago) or items that have been completed more recently.  But I’m going to show you my latest sewn item now, because I am rather chuffed with it!

And yes! Not only did scissors get to fabric during the past week, but they got to my hair too! Not by me, by the hairdresser. So, short and copper red. I’m almost used to it now, and I’m enjoying the change. But now, back to the jacket!

It’s the StyleARC Marie jacket. I made it in size 12. It is described as “challenging”, and it was a bit, mainly due to the brevity of the instructions. I’m used to that with StyleARC now in many ways, but this time it did necessitate quite a bit of unpicking and re-stitching. Which isn’t all that straightforward in some knits. StyleARC say “This up to the minute jacket with interesting design lines and off centre front zip can be worn closed or left open allowing it to fall into a wonderful front drape”, and recommend that it be made in a light ponte, a merino knit, or any soft knit that is still stable enough to hold the zip. I used a soft stretch fabric from the Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 table (previously used for a dress) and it was a good match for the pattern.

I’ve worn my jacket zipped up all day, but it looks quite effective undone as well. You can’t really tell from the pattern drawing how it drapes when undone, and it forms a soft cowl neckline at the front when done up. Which is why it needs a soft knit.

I didn’t make any alterations to the pattern for this rendition. It was really serving as a “muslin”, as I have some textured brown light ponte that I originally bought for this pattern. But I’m sure that I’ll wear my muslin quite often. Especially with skinny pants and boots! The seams are top-stitched. Next time I made it there are a few things that I will change. Luckily, I had googled this jacket before I started to sew it, and got some good tips from Melissa at Fehr Trade. Next time I also need to remember to:

• finish the edge of the facing with the overlocker before stitching it to the jacket
• press the front facing/side panel seams towards the side of the jacket, not the centre
• leave off the topstitching of the front princess seams until after the facings are attached – then I will be able to catch the facings in the topstitching
• use a slightly longer zipper that will fit down the entire front edge
• fuse the zip in place before stitching it.

Some of those who have made this jacket found it a little boxy. For me, that’s not a problem – I don’t have much waist definition at all, so it is actually quite a good shape as it is. I rather like the longer length too.  And that it’s basically a zip-fronted sweatshirt, only more stylish.

A big tick for this pattern! Only two weeks left before school holidays – will I get some more warm coats/jackets made before we head off on our family holiday to Tasmania?  And Tasmanians – any MUST-DOs while we are there (other than MONA)?

My Dad loves his denim flat cap.  And since it is now winter, I made him another, but in wool.

The wool tweed was a Spotlight remnant, and it was the perfect fabric for a winter cap! Dad always wears a hat when he’s outside, summer and winter, and I love that I can make him something that he really likes – especially because at Dad’s age (86) he has pretty much everything else that he wants!

For a bit of fun I used fish printed quilting cotton for the lining. Love that fabric! The pattern is Nicole Mallalieu’s Flat Cap, available as a digital pdf download. It’s a perfect pattern for pdf format, because there aren’t many pattern pieces, and you get all of Nicole’s excellent instructions.

I sewed this up on the weekend when I was in the country visiting my parents. Coincidentally, Jane just blogged about the ones that she made her boys too – so you can see that this pattern works equally well for the juniors and the seniors of our community!

I spent just under two hours sewing the flat cap on a relatively unfamiliar machine (Mum’s Husquvarna Viking). So including cutting time, you probably need to allow a leisurely two hours, give or take a little. Dad’s cap is a size small – he has a small head – and it fits him beautifully. He comments on how nicely it comes down at the back of the head to stay on snugly. I’ve also seen this cap looking great on women. Now I’d like to give it a go in leather…