Thank you so much for all your affirmations about Clare’s and Stella’s dress up costumes!  They had such a fun day, and it really was worth the effort of making their outfits.  I normally hate to make costumes, but have to admit that I felt a deep sense of satisfaction seeing them as their characters on the day.  The red is slowly washing out of Clare’s hair, and we watched the first three hours of Anne of Green Gables on DVD yesterday.

But now onto my first make from my recent Sewjourn trip!  It’s Vogue 8904, also known as the shingle dress.

This pattern was designed to show off stripes, and it looks highly effective when made using striped fabric. Take a look at Sham’s striped wiggle dress for a brilliant example (and she is looking SO good in it!). I decided to use what I had in stash for my first attempt (there will be another, in stripes). Luckily I was able to find a few shades of pink and plum all in stretch fabrics, so decided to go for an ombre effect.

This dress is actually quite simple to construct. There is a base dress, with “shingles” of contrasting fabrics laid on top of it and stitched down, each overlapping the one below. Then it is all sewn together. I used Vliesofix tape to secure the shingles in place before zig-zag stitching each one down. This held each very nicely and prevented any stretching out as each layer was attached. The notches and markings are very useful when making this dress – I didn’t transfer any stitching lines to my base dress, but just laid each shingle down using the edges and notches as a guide, and it has all worked out beautifully.

I made this dress in size 14, and used narrow seams. It was all constructed on the overlocker. The edges are left raw, other than around the neckline. The neckband encloses the seam allowances with what was called a “chanel trim” back in 1990 when I did a Knitwit course.

I really, really, really like this dress! Yes, it is very body-conscious, but hey, I have a body (although not a terribly trim one) and in the size 14, with the double layers provided by having a base dress with overlaid shingles, it doesn’t feel tight.

I think that all the fabrics may be from Darn Cheap Fabrics, although there may be one from Rathdowne Fabrics. I used five different fabrics. The base layer is a substantial knit with a crepe appearance, and it’s terrific to wear. The top tier is a fairly open weave knit, and unfortunately it suffered a little in the wash (despite me washing the dress inside out on a gentle cycle). It could have benefitted from a finished edge rather than a raw one. Lesson learned, and it’s still fine to wear, but a little disappointing.

I made a coordinating scarf from the top pink tier, and had lots of compliments when I wore it to church on Sunday. I was asked if it was by “mesop” – I was able to respond that it was by “me”!

I suspect that over time there will be many of these dresses popping up on the blogs. Such a fun design!  There is more about it on the designer Marcy Tilton’s website here.

Another garment that was finished a few weeks ago was the StyleARC Polly top.  I’ve spotted a very similar Burda pattern on a few sewing blogs lately.  There is an inverted pleat and a box pleat in the centre front that folds over a gathered section to form the neckline detail.

The fabric is from Spotlight, and is slightly sheer. Because of that, I cut the entire top double. I did think carefully about the best way to cut each piece. In the end I cut the sleeves with the hemline on the fold, so that they are self-lined. I cut the back with the hem on the fold as well. Cutting with the hem on the fold didn’t work for the front piece, because the front hemline is curved, so I just cut it twice then treated the two pieces as one when assembling. I sewed up the side seams before inserting the sleeves in the round, which has meant that the sleeves only have exposed seams around the armhole.

I made size 12, without any alterations, and am quite happy with the fit. I’ll definitely use this pattern again – I’d like to try it in something a bit stretchier and drapier.

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On another note, my dear friend Anne died peacefully this morning. I met Anne through my book group well over ten years ago, and I am going to miss so much about her. Her intelligence, her wit, her breadth of knowledge, her thoughtfulness, her insight, and her laughter. The world is a better place because Anne has been part of it.

Farewell my friend.

Lisa of Crafty Mamas has a great eye for a flattering pattern.  I made the Cherish dress four times over the course of summer, and now that I’ve made the Lovely Layers tunic once, I know it will happen again.

I made the size Large, with the scoop neckline option. Mine is a couple of inches shorter than the tunic length pattern piece, because of fabric width restrictions. This pattern certainly does take a lot of fabric – the hemlines are the full width! I chose the long sleeved option. There were no other alterations.

This is another pattern that fits closely around the shoulders, upper chest and bust, then flares out to skim over the tummy, hips, bum and thighs. I rather like the long draped sides. And can you tell that I did a pretty good job of matching up the stripes? I even impressed myself. It would have been good if I’d snipped off those long threads before the above photo was taken too. I’ve done it now.

The neckband worked out rather better than anticipated. I wanted a narrow black stripe right on the fold, which was easy to press, but didn’t realise until I’d sewn it up that there would also be a narrow back stripe encircling the neckband seamline. Hooray – I couldn’t have done it better if I’d tried. The fabric was from the Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 per metre table; a slight crumpled/creased viscose/lycra blend (I think). It was lovely to sew with and to wear – and if you’re quick I think that there are still a few bolts left!

And did you notice my beautiful hand-crafted necklace? Made by my Stella for Mother’s Day. There’s also a hand-beaded bracelet made by my Clare on one wrist.  So sweet. I’ve also got the Crafty Mamas Frida pattern ready to sew soon. And another Lovely Layers tunic all cut out…when you’re onto a good thing, stick to it!

This top was completed around a week ago.  When I first finished it off, I wasn’t happy with the neckline or hem.  I was almost ready to give it away.  But the next morning I gave it another press, and hey bingo, it’s a keeper!

The pattern is Vogue 8771, and I think that I bought the double sided with different widths stripe fabric from Darn Cheap Fabrics (not on sale – yes, I do also buy their fabric at their full price, not always from the $2 per metre table…).

The good points about this pattern:

• great for stripe play
• dolman/batwing sleeves that incorporate princess seaming for the bodice
• fashionable high-low hemline (also known as a “mullet” hemline)
• perfect with skinny jeans or pants
• only four pattern pieces!

My alterations: shortened through the body at the alteration points about an inch. I made the “Medium” size.  I used Vliesofix Tape to secure the hems (neck, sleeves and body) before stitching them with a zig-zag stitch on the sewing machine.  Other seams were overlocked.

What I’d do differently next time:

• do a google search before cutting out and sewing together, not after
• cut the cuffs double with the hem on the fold
• add a band around the neckline – it’s a very wide and open neckline, and would look better brought in a bit. Far too open for a winter top – very chilly!

So, will I make it again? Absolutely!

After the success of my first pair of Linda pants, I quickly made a couple more.  (These were finished a couple of weeks ago; there has been no crafting whatsoever during the past crazy week I have had).  They really show you the difference that changing fabrics can make.

I don’t ever tuck my tops into my pants, although I do sometimes wear fitted tops over them. But you can see in the next photos how these ones fit around the stomach/waist/bum.

There’s not hiding that pot belly – or my undies lines – in this pair of pants! Despite what the photos tell you though, they aren’t actually too tight. It’s all about the fabric.

They’re a very stretchy woven, not particularly thick, and quite clearly show every single curve, bump, and line. Over the course of the day, they bag out and stretch quite a lot more during wear. Surprisingly comfortable and wearable, but in my opinion not even slightly flattering around the middle – so it’s a good thing that you can’t see the middle in actual wear! The other pair are made in a much thicker stretch woven.

These ones are holding things in place much more smoothly! Here’s the back view:

Way improved. Both fabric were from the Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 per metre table a little while ago. So, now I’ve made this pattern three times. Each time I have used exactly the same pattern pieces with the same length alterations, some folded out above the knee and some folded out below. Each time I have used a stretch woven (although each with varying degrees of stretch and recovery and varying weight overall). And each pair fits quite differently.

This is a great pattern for work pants – I’ve been wearing all three pairs – but I’ll remake the brown pair in an alternative brown woven when I find one of a thicker weight. Interestingly for me, I’ve used both the navy and the brown before to make the Elle pant and have worn both pairs many, many times.  The more fitted style seemed to work better for the lighter weight brown woven than this looser Linda pant.  More to ponder!  So much about sewing for yourself is trial and error, and learning from experience.  Just when you think you’ve got wovens all figured out, along come the stretch wovens to add excitement to your day – not to mention the variety of knits that are available now!

And if you’d forgotten my first pair of Linda pants, here they are again:

Great in a substantial stretch woven with plenty of stretch. The pattern did recommend Bengaline – I suppose that I could have gone with the recommendation! Instead, I shopped my stash.