Month: October 2012

adult's clothing, sewing, WIP, work in progress

McCalls 8238 begins

My pre-Sewjourn cutting out frenzy has commenced.  I’ve started turning piles of metreage and patterns into piles of cut out pieces of garments and patterns.  Oh, what fun!  One of the items I’ve been planning on making myself is a bias cut dress for summer.  Enter McCalls 8238, which has been in my stash for many, many years and was originally used for making a plain black dress.  I wore that dress once – the fabric shredded everywhere that there was any strain put onto it! Not just at the seams – it must have been rotten.  I remember where I was working at the time, so it was back in 2000, and I possibly bought the pattern before then.  Just dashed upstairs to check the copyright date on the pattern – it was 1996.  Time to give it another whirl!

McCalls 8238 and McCalls 7587 (both well OOP)

Now it’s decision making time. I remember that this pattern had a very high round neck. I don’t find them comfortable or terribly flattering on me, so also pulled out McCalls 7587 (copyright 1995). I still have the dress that I made from this pattern – I wore it to the first family Christmas that I took my husband to, back in 1996. Isn’t that sweet? Although it’s also a simple round neck, I didn’t remember it as being quite as high. Here’s a comparison of the facing pieces, with McCalls 7587 on top.

Back facings - showing difference in neckline size

The facings for the second pattern are narrower. When I lined them up around the bottom edge, it seems that the neckline is scooped lower. The shoulder seam angles aren’t much different. Here’s the back facings:

front facings - showing difference in neckline size

I was tossing up whether to try to combine the two patterns through the shoulder and neckline, or just to cut the original neckline of the bias dress about 5/8″ deeper all around. I think that is what I will end up doing.

McCalls 8238 (bias cut dress) front pattern piece

Because it is a bias cut dress, the front pattern piece is whole rather than to be cut on the fold. Hooray! I’ve already made the same petite adjustments for the body length as last time, but think that I will add back on the length that I cut off when I made the shorter version of the dress last time so that I make the calf length dress this time. I’ll use the short sleeves as well. I’m making it from the fabric that you can see in the photos – it’s from June’s stash so is probably even older than the pattern, and I have no idea what the fabric composition is. It should work nicely in a bias cut. I’m looking forward to getting it all cut out and sewing it up!

adult's clothing, sewing

cherish maxi

It didn’t take long for me to make a second Cherish dress after the success of the last one (and thank you for all the positive feedback on it too).  This time I used a print (from Darn Cheap Fabrics) in a smooth poly/lycra knit.  It feels incredibly silky against the skin.

Cherish dress - ankle length

I had just enough fabric to squeeze out the maxi length this time. Of course, maxi length for me is about four inches shorter than the maxi length on the pattern – after all, I am only 158 cm tall!  However, I feel that I somehow look taller in a maxi.

Cherish dress - ankle length

This time I cut the neck and armhole bindings a little narrower, at about one and three quarter inches rather than two inches wide. I only needed to use my sewing machine for the neckline gathering – otherwise this dress was sewn entirely on the overlocker. It took me less than an hour to make, including cutting out time (since the pattern was already taped together). And I didn’t hem it, but left the bottom edge raw.  Sacrilege!

Cherish dress - ankle length

Love love love this pattern! Now I’m planning on making a few short sleeved and/or sleeveless jackets/cardis/vests that will coordinate with both this Cherish and the solid orange one. A little bit of wardrobe planning! You can purchase your own copy of the Cherish pattern here.

I suspect that I might be living in these dresses this summer, especially the maxi version.  Great for minimising sun exposure while staying cool.  I visited the dermatologist again yesterday who re-emphasised the importance of SPF as high as possible (50+ for me, especially blocking UVA as well as UVB) on all exposed skin, in addition to a hat.    I just don’t have the appropriate skin type for Australia!  It’s that Scottish/English/German heritage.  Both my parents have had melanoma and my colouring and history puts me in the extremely high risk category for all types of skin cancers.  I now have regular skin checks and would recommend to everyone to follow those slip, slop, slap guidelines.  Take care of your skin and keep an eye on all spots and moles and get them checked out.

sewing

usb key fob

You may have already seen some lovely examples of Nikki’s latest pdf download, the usb key fob.  I was a pattern tester too!

IMG_9073

My machine is still playing up, with highly erratic stitch tension, so my fob doesn’t look quite as perfect as it otherwise might. However, this is a terrific little pattern! Quick to make (have I mentioned before that I like quick?) and highly practical. I always have SO much trouble finding usb sticks in my bag – now I can just clip it onto the bag and won’t lose it in the bottomless depths!

IMG_9075

I used a swivel hook on the end of my usb fob, because that is what I had, but even if I’d had a split ring of the appropriate size I prefer the hook for the ease of attachment to and removal from my bag. But if it is more practical for you to attach this to your keys, a split ring would be better. When the fob is folded in half and secured with a snap, the usb stick retracts into its little sleeve. Ingenious!

IMG_9076

I’d never sewn anything like this before, but it was a snap with Nikki’s instructions and clever use of interfacings and tapes. I think that these usb key fobs would be terrific for fete stalls or for gifts that would suit both girls and guys depending on your fabric choice. I’ll be making more once I have a machine that sews properly! The pdf download is available here.

what I wore

what I wore – weeks 41 & 42

It appears that I am missing a photo or two each week. My enthusiasm for taking a daily photo must be waning a little – either that or I am getting distracted by all the things that ned to be done at this time of year.  Is anyone else starting to get geared up for the festive season?  I just applied for annual leave at work – all of January off!  Egads!

what I wore - weeks 41 & 42

I’m aiming on getting a whole year’s worth of “what I wore”, since I’ve got this far. It’s interesting for me to see the different outfits for different seasons.

 

adult's clothing, musings, sewing

cherish

Some selfish sewing – a dress for me!  I was lucky enough to win a copy of the Crafty Mamas Cherish Dress pattern recently.  I paired it with some beautiful soft bamboo/lycra (I think – it drapes more softly than cotton/lycra) from stash.  If only I could remember where I bought this fabric, I’d immediately get some more – so drapey yet substantial, and a terrific colour.

Cherish dress - pattern from Crafty Mamas

Let me tell you, this dress is so easy to make! One pattern piece for the front, one for the back, and bands for the neckline and armholes. All assembled on the overlocker, and the hem has been fused into place with Vliesofix, but not sewn. There is no topstitching elsewhere in the dress, so I decided to see how long a fused hem would last before I stitched it down.

Cherish dress - pattern from Crafty Mamas

I cut this out as a size Medium through the neck and armholes, widening to a size Large from the underarm seam down. I wanted it to skim over my waist and stomach bulges rather than cling to them! It’s a very bra-friendly design, with the gathers at the front neckline giving nice shaping and detail. The armholes are cut in a little at the back.

Cherish dress - pattern from Crafty Mamas

I’ll possibly accessorise with a scarf or necklace – or like today, with leggings, a 3/4 sleeved knit cardi, and a brooch. This pattern can be made up at tunic, knee, calf or maxi length. I rather fancy a maxi in a print – maybe I should make one this afternoon!

I’ve been meaning to link to a few posts that I have found interesting to read recently, all for different reasons.

Have you read anything in the sewing/crocheting blogging world lately that has made you think?

children's clothing, kids clothing, sewing

2 + 2 blouses

At my last November trip to Sewjourn I made skirts for each of the girls from the Oliver + S 2 + 2 pattern.  The girls have had a lot of wear from their skirts.  At the time I’d also cut out coordinating 2 + 2 blouses.  I became interested in other projects, and have only just sewn up the blouses this week, almost a year later.  Good thing that the skirts still fit – as do the blouses!  There are some advantages to slow growing children.

Oliver + S 2 + 2 blouses and skirts

The blouses are sewn in spotted voile from Spotlight, with trim to match the skirts (Heather Ross linen/cotton).

Oliver + S 2 + 2 blouses

I didn’t have five matching buttons for the back of each blouse, so just spaced the buttons further apart and used four. Clare’s has hearts and Stella’s has apples.

Oliver + S 2 + 2 blouses

There is plenty of ease in the sleeve cap, which makes the blouses sit beautifully across the chest and shoulders when worn. The back doesn’t really need to be unbuttoned to get the blouses on and off, since the front bias binding ties can be undone and that gives adequate space.

Oliver + S 2 + 2 blouses and skirts

Stella’s outfit is in size 4, and Clare’s in size 8. If you look closely you can see how much darker pink the appliqued tab on Stella’s blouse is as compared to the skirt – after a year of washing, the skirt has faded a little! Clare’s isn’t as noticeable. And I have another sewing tip for anyone thinking of making two of anything in the same fabric but in different sizes. Check at EVERY stage of the process that you are only using pieces from the one size whenever you sew something together. And double check it. Especially make sure that you are matching the correct sized front and back pieces together at the shoulder seams before you sew them and before you beautifully apply the neck bias binding and top stitch it perfectly in place. Just ask me how I know. If you don’t check and double check, you WILL spend some quality time with your quality unpicker.

Oliver + S 2 + 2 blouses and skirts

I’m getting close to the bottom of that cut-out-and-ready-to-sew box now. A pyjama top for Clare (cut out a year ago), a shirt for Stella (also cut out a year ago), a dress for Clare (cut out last summer holidays), bathers for me – but there is no rush to get them made – and a pinafore dress for me – also no rush to get that made, since it’s a winter fabric. I have a number of piles of fabric and patterns just waiting to be used to refill that box! But one thing at a time, for once!

bags, sewing

beauty case

You see, sometimes procrastination can be a good thing.  Many months ago, Homespun magazine published Nicole Mallalieu‘s craft tote.  I loved it, decided to make it,  bought the magazine, put the magazine in a corner.  The pattern required tracing – you know how I procrastinate about tracing.  I sewed up some other things.  Months later, Nikki put out a call for people to pattern test the tweaked and revamped and instructions-written-the-Nikki-way-not-the-Homespun-way pattern – now called the beauty case.  My hand went up quick smart, especially because Nikki also lent me her already on cardboard pattern pieces to trace around.  Win!

beauty case - pattern by Nicole Mallalieu (You Sew, Girl)

This is SUCH a cute pattern. It is described as for confident sewers, which is accurate. There is a zip involved – although Nikki’s instructions make that easy – and you need to be able to sew curved pieces to straight pieces – which is easy if you are used to setting in sleeves. The biggest challenge for me was to sew the binding down by machine. I usually wimp out and sew the first side by machine but the second finishing seam by hand. But no longer! I have conquered the use of the tailor’s awl (every time I write or say “tailor’s awl” I think of Karen‘s daughter singing “Tailor’s awl as time” from Beauty and the Beast) to really hold down the binding as I machine sew it. Hooray!

beauty case - pattern by Nicole Mallalieu (You Sew, Girl)

I used left-over fabric from Clare’s dress for the outer of the beauty case, lining it with Vera Bradley fabric that has been in my stash for years and years. They worked together beautifully! I used a yellow and white spot for the inner pockets. There is a pretty little flower shaped zipper pull, and overall I love the way that this has turned out. Look at all that room inside!

beauty case - pattern by Nicole Mallalieu (You Sew, Girl)

I am going to use this to keep all the sewing accessories that I sometimes misplace – such as bias binding makers, ruffler and bias binding feet for the machine, the gizmo that I use to mark buttonholes, extra bobbins, etc etc etc. I’m also planning on making one for each of the girls for their next birthdays. I reckon that any little girl would love one of these to carry treasures, toiletries, toys, or sewing projects in! The pattern has just been released. You can check the stockists page to find out where to get one.

adult's clothing, crochet

cappucino capri cover

With the occasional warm day sprinkled amongst the cold ones, I was inspired to crochet something lacy and summery.  Enter the Capri Cover.

Capri Cover

This was surprisingly quick to crochet – maybe because I had the opportunity for some extended crochet sessions when I began it. It’s crocheted in Bendigo Woollen Mills Cotton 8ply, colour Cappucino (now discontinued, sadly).

Capri Cover

Crocheted in the round, back and the front the same, with negative ease. I chose to crochet the 36 3/4 inch bust size, and the resulting top is more fitted than I’d really have liked. However, this does mean that the holes at the tip of each pineapple in the yoke land above my bust rather than right on it, which is a good thing! I’ve seen this lengthened to a dress, which would be rather lovely – but as it so happens, I’ve got a different cotton dress on the hook at the moment.  Maybe after I finish that one I could give this one another go, sized up and in dress length.  Hmmmm………

Capri Cover

This isn’t how the top will be styled in actual wear (leggings are not pants!) – it will most likely go over a skirt or looser pants, and I have a variety of coloured tanks and sleeveless tees that will go under it. I will also have lost a little weight by the time that summer truly rolls around.  But I needed to get these photos snapped while I had the opportunity so I threw off the dress I had on over my leggings and threw on a top and the Capri Cover and threw the camera into Mr Thornberry’s hands. Details of my Capri Cover are on Ravelry here.  The new Bendigo Woollen Mills Cotton shade card has just come out, and in contrast to last year’s pastels only, this year there is a wonderful range of 15 colours.  I am dreaming of what I can crochet in cotton – maybe next year’s BAMCAL blanket?

children's clothing, kids clothing, sewing

school photo dress

Clare didn’t actually wear this dress for her school photo – it’s just the name of the Oliver + S pattern! It’s always school uniform here for school photos. I’ve been “collecting” Oliver + S patterns for a while now, and am making a very concerted effort to use them. They always result in a lovely garment – the designer really has a flair for beautiful children’s clothes.  They are relatively expensive, but I think that they are absolutely worth it – especially when I am likely to make the pattern up more than once in different sizes for each daughter.  Clare’s School Photo Dress was sewn in size 8.

School Photo Dress for Clare, size 8

There are two collar and sleeve options for this dress. Clare chose the simple retro-styled roll collar, which is cut on the bias, and straight sleeves with a bias cuff around the bottom. The other option is a ruffled collar and sleeves with the bottom gathered into a band. Clare didn’t cuff the sleeve. We also decided not to sew a button and loop to the back of the roll collar to keep it in the rolled shape at the back, but instead left it to lie open.

School Photo Dress for Clare, size 8

And check that invisible zipper insertion! I am getting SO good at these! The fabric is from Sandi Henderson’s Meadowsweet line. I am extremely pleased with my fabric/pattern pairing for this dress – I think that the two complement one another beautifully. The dress is princess seamed at the front and the back, and in between the princess seams at the front is a kangaroo style pocket!

School Photo Dress for Clare, size 8

The body of the dress is lined with a pale pinky-beige voile that has been hiding in stash, semi-faded, for some time. A perfect lining fabric.

School Photo Dress for Clare, size 8

We both love this dress (although Mr Thornberry did wonder if his daughter was wearing it back to front).  Like some of the other garments that I’ve sewn recently, this has been sitting in my “cut-out-and-ready-to-sew” box for a little while. I am making a big effort to empty that box within the next couple of weeks – so that I can fill it up again before I go to Sewjourn in early November! This time I’m aiming at completing six garments – two for me, two for Stella, and two for Clare – and anything else will be a bonus. I’m even considering making a shirt for Mr Thornberry. And I definitely want to get some more sleep than I usually do when I go to Sewjourn! I know that at least three of the other Sewjourners will be sewing Oliver + S patterns that weekend – it will be fun to see how they all turn out!  But in the meantime, there are clothes to sew, other clothes to cut out, and a work conference to attend in SURFERS PARADISE (!!!!!!!) in less than two weeks time….

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