More nitwit than Knit-wit
About a million years ago (okay, maybe not – about 18 years ago) I did a Knit-Wit course. Any of you other Australians remember or do these? It was a terrific course to learn how to sew knit fabrics effectively. I still have all the notes and the early-90s patterns. Lots of shoulder pads. The knit fabrics were beautiful quality, stable knits. I made a number of lovely garments. Well, a few weeks ago I tried to sew a knit that contained plenty of lycra – knits and fibres have evolved considerably over the past 20 years.
I started off trying to make another patternless skirt, but cut the waist hole far too big. Never mind, I’ll just turn it into a sleeveless top. I pulled out a New Look pattern, cut out the front and back pieces of the top, looked hard at them then thought I’d better compare them to a sleeveless top I already owned that was a good fit. Oh my goodness – the differences were astounding! The pattern had much deeper armholes, much longer torso, lower neckline, narrower body – completely not my shape, even though the size was appropriate according to the pattern guidelines. So rather than use the pattern I traced around my top and made my own pattern from that.
All good so far – pattern drafted, front and back cut out, all sewn together on the overlocker, fits well. Just time to finish off the bottom hem and neck and armhole edges. I don’t have a coverstitch machine – so why not use the twin needle?
That’s why. Those hems look awful. I’m going to cut them off and make a binding strip from the same fabric. And I’m going to do a lot more playing around with scraps to work out what sort of edge finishes work best with these super-stretchy fabrics with high lycra content – especially when sewing around curves.
I knew there was a reason I like to sew wovens.
and why some of us run screaming from the room at the thought of garments or knits ……
Wendy Gager (who owns the last Knit Wit business standing!) recently recommend in Stitches mag that you stabilise the hem with some light vlisofix tape (steam-a-seam should work too) before you use the twin needle. This stops the bunching and ridges. I have also been shown how to do a Chanel finish on stretch hems … I will try and dig out my notes for you. And when I can shake off the horrible lurgy I have at the moment, I am going to try out the overlocked rolled hem and see whether this is good on stretchies too.
Good luck!
a great way to finish hems, necks and armholes on the overlocker –
to get the idea, turn up a cuff on the sleeve of whatever you’re wearing now.
fold the turn back down towards your wrist to fold it in half
now overlock along the edge through these 3 thicknesses, then again fold the cuff towards your wrist. hopefully you’ll see a beautiful hem that looks like it’s been bound. you can then topstitch on the right side if you want
easier to do this before doing side seams, and do neck seam with just one shoulder seam.
when doing hems on sleeves leave a really long tail on your overlocking. thread a wool needle with the tail and thread through the overlocked sleeve seam, pulling taught so the overlocking turns in on itself a little
did this make any sense???
this is why people who sew pay money for well made knits!
Lx
It’s all to do with the quality of the knit – very hard to get good quality – I should buy through Knit Wit in Perth. I remember the Knit Wit craze – trackie dackies everywhere – people were even making their own undies! Yes that’s why wovens are much more funner!
I was just thinking today that I wish I knew how to sew stretchy stuff. My Mum did a KnitWit course in the 80’s!
Maybe someone needs to revamp the concept for new stretch fabrics.
Does that mean a few coins went in to your swear jar too?
Do not be afraid! I think binding is a much better finish than a hem, and easy to do. But also, make sure you have a good ball point needle! Makes a LOT of difference.
And the best way to bind, don’t bother with a conventional 2 fold bias. Cut a strip that’s 4 or more times as wide as your chosen seam allowance or binding width, and sew to right side to right side of garment. Then turn to wrong side over seam allowance and top stitch down. No need to turn twice since knits don’t fray, just trim close to stitching with sharp scissors. Quick, easy and a really good finish. Or you can do the method dear molly suggested – with the binding folded in half and sewn to opening edge. If you do this make sure you stretch the binding a bit or it can sit up/turn inside out and look a bit sloppy.
Even in South Africa KnitWit was BIG many years ago. I did not do a course but I did buy many of their patterns and made tons of clothes! I love their stretch fabric! The quality of their fabric was amazing. Sadly they are no longer in South Africa. I see they are in Australia and the UK but only do mailorders. I saw a few of their new fabric lines and they are still gorgeous. I have made a note to contact them sometime…
You are such a genius to turn a bad cut into another clothing item! The top looks great to me!
Came across this site while searching the web for a Palazzo pants pattern that I had many years ago when doing a Knitwit course. they were easy ro make and a wonderful fit. Got mislaid/thrown out when we moved house.
If anybody has any ideas where I might try I will be very grateful
Lenae.
Good day, where in Gauteng, Fourways area do I find a branch to purchase patterns. Thank you. Janine
Hi,
Where can I purchase petterns in Gauteng. I use to have all the knitwit patterns but had a fire and lost it all.
Regards
Jean de Klerk
0824310840
Hi there Jean – I would have absolutely no idea where you could get the old Knitwit patterns in Gauteng! I suggest that you keep on googling and see what you find – and try eBay.
Where in South Africa can I buy good track suiting fabric and ribbing? I would also love to see Knitwit revived here! Clare
Hi Clare! I am in Australia, not South Africa, so have no advice for you. Good luck!
Hi
i am looking to buy a Knitwit cutting board . The cardboard one not a plastic one . Can anyone help
Little bit late!!! But are you still looking for knots it patterns and the cutting board? I have one for R150 excluding postage/delivery or collection in Sunnyridge or a bedfordview shopping mall meet. Kind regards Meriel Mitchell 0832361559
Hi Janine. A little bit late!! But thought I’d answer I have a cardboard board…perfect condition plus 10’patterns ifmyouninterested for R150 either from the bedfordview area in Gauteng or the Westville area in Kwa Zulu Natal. My mother is moving from Gauteng to Natal hence till the final move it can be available where it suits you.
kind regards Meriel Mitchell
Hi Ladies
I also did the course in the 80’s and am looking for the pattern of the culottes if anyone has one – please mail me: lyndab726@gmail.com (Fourways). Stretch fabric and rib trim can be bought from Fionas in Ferndale.
I also did the Knitwit course in Rosebank Johannesburg in the 1980’s. Enjoyed the sewing courses, made outfit every week. Made all my clothes for myself and my two girls. I unfortunately gave all my knitwit patterns away. If anybody in South Africa still have patterns and cutting board, Please let me know please. Marianne Yzelle my e mail is marianne.saunders3@gmail.com