Firstly, a warning! This is going to be a long and photo-heavy post. When I can work out how I will convert the tutorial into a pdf and upload it somewhere, but for now here is the promised tutorial for the Cup Day Skirt.
Please let me know if there are any glaring problems with this tutorial or anything that absolutely doesn’t make sense. It’s the first one I’ve written and I’m not a professional!
There are two versions of this skirt; one has twice the fabric in it as the other (more twirlability). I made these to fit my daughter who is almost 6 years old and rather short. It is simple to adjust for other sizes – just alter the skirt length and the waist elastic accordingly. You can alter the depth of the ruffle to suit the amount of fabric you have available, or can leave it off completely. Happy sewing!
1. Materials and equipment
Green skirt:
Approximately 14” (36cm) of 45” (115cm) wide fabric for the main skirt
Approximately 10” (25 cm) of 45” wide contrast fabric for the waistband and ruffle
Brown skirt (more twirlability):
Approximately 45” (115cm) of 45” (115cm) wide fabric
Both skirts:
Coordinating thread
Approximately 50” (125cm) of ½ inch wide elastic
Safety pins or bodkins for threading elastic
Scissors or rotary cutter, mat and ruler
Pins
Sewing machine (an overlocker is handy too)
Note: I used 5/8 inch seams throughout.
2. Cutting out
Version 1
Main fabric: Cut 1 piece 13-14” deep across the whole width of the fabric
Ruffle: Cut 2 pieces 2-3” deep across the whole width of the fabric.
Waistband: Cut 1 piece 3 ¾ – 4” deep by approx 35” long.
Version 2
Main skirt: Cut 2 pieces 13-14” deep across the whole width of the fabric
Ruffle: Cut 4 pieces 2-3” deep across the whole width of the fabric
Waistband: Cut 1 piece 3 ¾ -4” deep across the whole width of the fabric
3. Waistband.
Fold the waistband in half along it’s length WRONG sides together and press.
Open out and fold the top edge over 5/8”. Press this fold.
Open out again, then place the short ends right sides together.
Sew the waistband seam from the top edge to the 5/8” fold, securing the thread at the end.
Sew again from the centre fold to the bottom edge.
Press the folds back into place.
You now have a waistband with an opening that you will later use to thread elastic through.
The main part of the skirt will be sewn to the unfolded edge (at the bottom of the photo).
Divide the waistband into quarters and mark (I use pins).
4. Main skirt
Sew the side seams of the skirt together.
Version 1 will only have one seam.
Version 2 will have two seams.
Press these seams open. Since the fabric was cut along the entire width, the edges don’t need finishing as they are the selvedges.
Gather the top edge of the skirt, using whichever method you are most comfortable with. I sew two parallel rows of stitching using the longest stitch length my machine has. I sew one row about ½” from the edge of the fabric and the other row about ¾” from the edge of the fabric.
Divide the top edge of the fabric into quarters and mark (I use pins).
5. Ruffle
Sew the ruffle pieces right sides together along the short edges.
Press these seams open. Since the fabric was cut along the entire width, the edges don’t need finishing as they are the selvedges.
Hem one long edge using whichever method you prefer. I have done a narrow machine stitched hem, but you could do a rolled hem or a bias-bound hem.
Gather the top edge of the ruffle in the same manner as you did the skirt, using whichever method you are most comfortable with. I sew two parallel rows of stitching using the longest stitch length my machine has. I sew one row about ½” from the edge of the fabric and the other row about ¾” from the edge of the fabric.
Divide the top edge of the fabric into quarters and mark (I use pins).
6. Attach ruffle to skirt.
Match up the quarter points on the skirt and the ruffle and pin them right sides together.
Pull up the gathering threads until the ruffle fits onto the skirt. Pin in place, adjusting the gathers evenly.
Sew the ruffle to the skirt using your machine or an overlocker. Make sure that you take the pins out before you get to them if you’re using an overlocker!
If you used a machine, finish the raw edges with a zig-zag or other such stitch.
Press the ruffle away from the body of the skirt. You might need to remove some of the gathering threads.
7. Attach waistband to skirt.
In the same way as you attached the ruffle to the skirt, attach the skirt to the waistband.
Match up the quarter points on the waistband and the skirt and pin them raw edges and right sides together.
Pull up the gathering threads until the skirt fits onto the waistband. Pin in place, adjusting the gathers evenly.
Sew the skirt to the waistband using your machine or an overlocker. Make sure that you take the pins out before you get to them if you’re using an overlocker!
If you used a machine, finish the raw edges with a zig-zag or other such stitch. Press the seam allowances towards the waistband. You might need to remove some of the gathering threads.
8. Casings.
Fold the waistband to the inside and press. It should just cover the seamline. Pin into place and stitch close to the bottom fold. This will hopefully be almost along the seamline between the skirt and the waistband.
Sew another line of stitching halfway between the first line and the top of the waistband. This forms the casings for the elastic.
9. Elastic.
Cut two pieces of elastic to fit comfortably around the waist, plus another 2” (I cut them 22” long for a size 5 skirt).
Using elastic bodkins or safety pins, thread the elastic through the casings.
Adjust to fit, and sew the ends of the elastic together.
Distribute the gathers nicely, and sew the waistband casing opening closed.
Try on and twirl!
